Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: SEVEN Geneva Saturday, May 12, 2018 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1973
    Reference No: 1513, inside caseback stamped 1503
    Case No: 3'561'316
    Model Name: Datejust
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold textured Rolex bracelet, max length 210mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K gold textured Rolex deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 34mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    The seventies were a fascinating decade for watchmaking. Influences from the space age and the more carefree spirit of the time had a profound impact on watch design. The dial becomes more and more devoid of graphics, reaching some extremes where the brand signature is the only printed detail found on it. The case instead takes the opposite trend and becomes the true canvas on which watch designers let their imagination run free. Geometric, angular shapes are abundantly used together with textured finish, multi-colored metals and hard stones.

    With this in mind, it is obvious how the present piece is one of the most outstanding interpreters of this era: the entire watch is defined by the elaborate finish to both case, dial and bracelet. Interestingly, while the pattern of dial and bezel complement each other, the bracelet offers a different design, showing somewhat of an Arabic influence thanks to the “tapestry-style” finish. Notwithstanding the enormous amount of work involved with the production of such a remarkable piece, the final effect is simply stunning. Not only is this watch a remarkable collector’s piece; it is also a true time machine capable of transporting its wearer to a much different era.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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239

Ref. 1513, inside caseback stamped 1503
A fine, very attractive and unusual yellow gold wristwatch with center seconds, date, textured bezel, dial and bracelet

Circa 1973
34mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

Estimate
CHF6,000 - 9,000 
€5,100-7,700
$6,400-9,500

Sold for CHF12,500

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Sale
+41 22 317 81 81
aghotbi@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: SEVEN

Geneva Auction 12-13 May 2018