A set of three rare and attractive yellow gold, diamond, emerald, sapphire and ruby set calendar wristwatches with tridor bracelet, centre seconds and champagne dial

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1990, 1986, 1986
    Reference No: 18239B inside caseback stamped 18200
    18039B inside caseback stamped 18000
    18039B inside caseback stamped 18000

    Movement No: 5'624'558
    1'881'689
    1'779'482

    Case No: E'759'118
    9'064'318
    9'302'305

    Model Name: Day-Date Tridor
    Material: 18k yellow gold, pink gold and white gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
    Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels

    Bracelet/Strap: Gold Rolex President bracelet, end links stamped 55, max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Rolex concealed deployant buckle
    Dimensions: 36mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    In the mid-1980s, Rolex introduced the Tridor (as in three gold) version of the Day-Date. One single model with an elegant mix of three gold colors: yellow gold bezel, a white gold case and a President bracelet fused with yellow, white and pink gold center links.

    The present lot is comprised of three exceptional examples of the Tridor. Each model is fitted with a wonderful champagne dial and either adorned with ten baguette-cut emerald, sapphire or ruby hour markers, harmoniously interlaced with round cut diamonds. The model featuring ruby hour markers also has the particularity of having an original, factory diamond set bezel.

    The state-of-the-art calibers powering these Day-Date models are characterized by the Double Quick-set day and date function, which allows a rapid date adjustment.

    Each watch in the present lot is in almost untouched condition with strong definition to the lugs retaining the factory original mix of brushed and polished surfaces. All models retain their original green Rolex sticker on the caseback, demonstrating how well-preserved they are.

    This is a rare opportunity to own three rare and uncommon Rolex Day-Date models, each with its own strong personality.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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115

Rolex

Ref. 18239B inside caseback stamped 18200 18039B inside caseback stamped 18000 18039B inside caseback stamped 18000
A set of three rare and attractive yellow gold, diamond, emerald, sapphire and ruby set calendar wristwatches with tridor bracelet, centre seconds and champagne dial

1990, 1986, 1986
36mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF50,000 - 100,000 
€42,900-85,700
$52,900-106,000

sold for CHF58,750

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Sale
+41 22 317 81 81
aghotbi@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: SEVEN

Geneva Auction 12-13 May 2018