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90

Movado

Ref. 95 704 568

Sub-Sea

A very attractive and well-preserved stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with blue tachymeter scale and bracelet

Estimate
$7,000 - 14,000
$30,000
Lot Details
Manufacturer
Movado
Year
Circa 1966
Reference No
95 704 568
Case No
1918
Model Name
Sub-Sea
Material
Stainless steel
Calibre
Manual, cal. C 95 M, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap
Stainless steel Movado bracelet, max length 195mm
Clasp/Buckle
Stainless steel deployant clasp
Dimensions
35mm Diameter
Signed
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
Catalogue Essay
Founded in 1881 in La Chaux de Fonds, Movado established its reputation as a high quality movement manufacturer, designing, testing and assembling their own movements under one roof. Following World War II, only a handful of brands were capable of producing in-house movements, with most brands purchasing ébauches and finishing them to their specifications.

Movado’s Sub-Sea model was the brand’s water resistant chronograph wristwatch, using their C 95 M chronograph caliber and a Taubert & Fils-made case. Taubert was a respected case maker specializing in water-resistant cases - supplying them to some of Switzerland’s most prestigious brands. Taubert & Fils cases are found on many well-known stainless steel models, including Patek Philippe’s reference 1463 chronograph and the time-only reference 565. Though Taubert & Fils purchased François Borgel’s case-making company in 1924, it is interesting to note the firm never changed their maker’s mark, and today Taubert & Fils-supplied cases still feature the “FB” hallmark.

The present watch is in superb condition, with a well-preserved case and bracelet showing little signs of wear. This is reinforced by the sharp lugs and crisp lines observed throughout the case. Later Movado Sub-Seas would become increasingly bolder and sportier, to adjust to the evolving aesthetics of the 1960s and 1970s, but the current example combines the best of the early-mid century with later masculine elements. The eggshell white dial contrasts beautifully with the robin’s egg blue of the tachymeter dial - still vibrant after over half a century of existence.