Heuer - The Crosthwaite & Gavin Collection: Exceptional Heuer Chronographs From The Jack Heuer Era Geneva Friday, November 10, 2017 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Heuer
    Year: Circa 1969
    Reference No: 1153N
    Case No: 147'586
    Model Name: Carrera, "Abercrombie & Fitch" Chronomatic
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 11, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Gay Frères bracelet with HLC endlinks, max length 205mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Heuer deployant clasp stamped 2.69
    Dimensions: 38.5mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
    Literature: The present Watch is illustrated in "Heuer Carrera Chronographs 1963-85" by Richard Crosthwaite & Paul Gavin, pages 156-159

  • Catalogue Essay

    Heuer, with its partners Breitling, Büren, Hamilton and Dubois-Depraz developed the calibre 11 in its race to produce the world's first automatic chronograph movement. Heuer presented this movement in three models: the Autavia, Carrera and Monaco. Moreover, these watches shared an important characteristic - the word "Chronomatic" printed on the dial above the Heuer badge. This indication was rapidly abandoned resulting in a very law number of "Chronomatic" dials being produced making the extremely rare and sought after by collectors.
    There are 5 known examples of the Carrera Chronomatic, including one in the TAG Heuer Museum. The rarity of this lot is further enhanced by the fact that it is the only known model displaying not only the Heuer and Chronomatic script, but also the Abercrombie & Fitch signature.
    The first series automatic Carrera models featured steel with black stripe hour and minute hands, inner tachymeter scale from 50 - 200 with the TACHY script at located 3 o'clock. The earliest examples also featured a transitional rice grain Gay Frères bracelet with a non-flip lock clasp which was made for only half a year and by the fourth quarter of 1969 the bracelet was delivered with the new flip lock clasp.
    The present example features a metallic blue dial that has gent/y aged to a particularly beguiling and shimmering lilac with a bright contrasting red seconds hand making it a pure delight to behold.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1860

    This iconic chronograph manufacturer has a long tradition of precision timekeeping. As early as 1882, founder Edouard Heuer held a patent for a chronograph watch; in 1887, he received a patent for an oscillating pinion, which is still in use today. These specialized timepieces have been at the heart of the firm's success, enabling the brand to be chosen as early timekeepers for the Olympics. In 1969, the company introduced their first automatic chronograph watch, the Monaco Heuer, which celebrated the Monaco Grand Prix. Other key chronograph models include the Autavia and the Carrera, all of which having become iconic models of the firm.

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Ref. 1153N
A beautiful and extremely rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with date window and bracelet, retailed by Abercrombie & Fitch Co.

Circa 1969
38.5mm. Diameter
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

CHF15,000 - 25,000 

Sold for CHF37,500

Contact Specialist
Virginie Liatard-Roessli
+41 22 317 81 89

The Crosthwaite & Gavin Collection: Exceptional Heuer Chronographs From The Jack Heuer Era

Geneva Auction 11 November 2017