An early and extremely rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with date and tachymeter scale, belonging to Emmanuel Gueit and accompanied by original sketches

Create your first list.

A way to share and manage lots.

Cancel
  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1993
    Reference No: 25721ST.OO.1000ST.01
    Movement No: 369'370
    Case No: D23782 Number 039
    Model Name: Royal Oak Offshore
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2226/2840, 54 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 42mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by a series of original sketches of the watch and other designs by Emmanuel Gueit.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The fact that upon its launch in 1972 the Royal Oak took the watch world by storm is an evidence. It changed the horological landscape by introducing the first casual/chic wristwatch.

    Twenty one years later, Audemars Piguet would set a new rule for the game they had invented by introducing a testosterone injected Royal Oak with the launch of the Offshore in 1993, the equivalent of a haute horlogerie Bentley Bentayga.

    Audemars Piguet’s talented in-house designer Emmanuel Gueit was set the task to retain the now iconic Genta design of the Royal Oak and to infuse it with raw power. It took Gueit and his team close to four years between the original idea and the final watch that was presented at Basel fair 1993.

    The Royal Oak Offshore was shortly thereafter nicknamed “The Beast” due to what was, at the time, its astonishing 42mm case size. The Offshore was revolutionary, and arguably, it established the trend for large-sized watches, becoming the norm in today’s modern production watches.

    By keeping the signature case/bezel shape and tappisserie dial, Gueit nevertheless managed to create a timepiece that would inspire sports watches that would follow.

    The present example is rare in many ways. It is part of the first 100 models of this rare reference that omit the ‘Offshore’ designation on the caseback which is simply engraved ‘Royal Oak’. Bearing number 39 it is one of the earliest examples of the Offshore to appear on the international auction market. More importantly however is that the present watch is the property of the man who designed it, Emmanuel Gueit, and as such it represents a great piece of horological history.

    Upon close inspection a connoisseur would notice that the folding clasp of this Offshore is different to the multi folding version habitually found. According to Guiet this is the clasp he had originally designed and that was found in later Offshore models but it is unclear why Audemars Piguet did not use it for this reference.

    Gueit is nevertheless not a one trick pony, after leaving Audermars Piguet in the late 1990s he set up as a freelance designer, putting his artistic genius designing extremely diverse yet powerfully creative watches for Harry Winston, Piaget, Hermes and even revamping Rolex’s Cellini line.

    This year Audemars Piguet presented a 25th anniversary re-edition of the original Offshore almost in all aspects identical to this piece, proof that a perfect design is almost impossible to better!

  • Maker Bio

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.


    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

    View More Works

58

Ref. 25721ST.OO.1000ST.01
An early and extremely rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with date and tachymeter scale, belonging to Emmanuel Gueit and accompanied by original sketches

1993
42mm. Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF40,000 - 80,000 
€35,200-70,400
$41,000-81,900

sold for CHF102,500

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Sale
+41 22 317 81 89
aghotbi@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: EIGHT

Geneva Auction 10-11 November 2018