Article | Patek Philippe 3990p Salmon Dial Phillips Hong Kong Watch Auction Xxiii November 2026

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo presents The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXIII, a live auction taking place on 21–22 November 2026 at our West Kowloon headquarters. Featuring more than 320 exceptional luxury timepieces from makers such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and F.P. Journe, the sale includes the possibly unique salmon-dialed Patek Philippe Ref. 3990P-011 in this story.

A salmon dial can do quite a lot to a watch. Against pink gold, its warmth extends the color of the case. But pair it with platinum and that same hue stands apart from the white metal surrounding it. Add a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds – as Patek Philippe has done with this Ref. 3990P – and there is rather more for the eyes to feast on.

Offered in The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXIII, this perpetual calendar chronograph gives us good reason to take a closer look at one of Patek’s lesser-seen references.

A Familiar Foundation

Anyone who knows the Ref. 3970 will recognize the family resemblance. The round pushers, sculpted lugs, and arrangement of the calendar and chronograph indications all carry over to the Ref. 3990, as does the compact 36mm case diameter.

Produced between roughly 1995 and 2005, the 3990 gave this established design a diamond-set bezel and diamond hour markers. Available in yellow, pink, and white gold, as well as platinum, it became Patek Philippe’s first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch to feature a diamond-set bezel.

The 3990 established a precedent: collectors could choose Patek’s signature combination of complications with a more elaborate exterior. The maison would later repeat the exercise with the Ref. 5971, the diamond-set counterpart to the 5970.

Diamonds by Design

Forty baguette-cut diamonds follow the circumference of the bezel, their straight edges forming a neatly segmented border around the dial. Inside, a baguette marks 12 o’clock, while ten smaller diamond indexes punctuate the hour track, leaving space at 6 for the date and moon-phase display.

Within this frame, the indications follow the familiar 3970 layout. Day and month appear in twin windows at the top. At 9 o’clock, running seconds share a counter with a 24-hour indication, useful for distinguishing morning from evening when setting the calendar.

Opposite, at 3 o’clock, the chronograph’s 30-minute counter incorporates the leap-year display, while elapsed seconds are measured by a central hand. Completing the arrangement below, the date hand travels around the moon-phase aperture.

Powering this rich ensemble of displays is the manually wound caliber CH 27-70 Q, the Lemania-based movement also used in the 3970.

Salmon Makes a Splash

Despite the sparkle of the diamonds, it is arguably the dial’s color that first draws attention. Its sunburst finish catches the light across the salmon surface, while the recessed counters introduce subtle changes in texture and depth.

Against it, the platinum case and baguettes provide a bright frame. Compare the combination with a black-dial platinum 3990, and the change in character is considerable. Here, the warmth comes from within.

Across all metals and dial configurations, Phillips records just 17 publicly known examples of the reference. Three have salmon dials. Of those, two are cased in pink gold, leaving this as the only known platinum example with that dial color.

Preserved with Care

The watch retains sharp case proportions and crisp hallmarks. An additional solid caseback, setting pin, hang tag, and leather portfolio containing a photograph of the watch itself accompany it.

Its Certificate of Origin – dated 2006 and stamped by Patek Philippe’s Geneva Salon – records the platinum case, diamond hour markers, and 40 baguette diamonds. The dial color has its own entry: “rose.”

It is this combination that makes this example so uncommon. But the pleasure comes in seeing it: the familiar face of a Patek perpetual calendar chronograph, its compact proportions intact, given a warmer complexion within that bright surround. Knowing that no other example of this configuration has come to light only adds to the appeal.

You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXIII catalog here.