Our first live watch auction of 2026, the PHILLIPS Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII, will take place on May 9 and 10 at Hotel President Wilson in Geneva. The sale will feature more than 200 rare and collectible timepieces spanning vintage and contemporary horology, and brings together a particularly strong and varied catalogue, with a wide range of standout watches across collecting categories. In the lead-up to the auction, we are highlighting a selection of lots and stories from the sale, including the watches featured in this article.
There are more than 200 watches to discover in the catalogue for the upcoming Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII. As always, the sale will bring together a heavyweight group of headline lots, from rare cloisonné enamel dials such as the Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 “South America” and Rolex’s “Dragon” Ref. 6085, to the one-of-four Patek Philippe Ref. 3998J with hieroglyph dial, plus independent milestones like the F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance “Souscription.”
With so much to take in, we asked our specialists to pick their standout lots using a simple brief: a pairing of one vintage and one contemporary piece. As you’ll see, the results say as much about each specialist’s taste as they do about the breadth of watches set to go under the hammer.
Lot 26: Audemars Piguet Ref. 5503 in stainless steel and 14k pink gold
Estimate: CHF 400,000 - 800,000
Lot 21: Patek Philippe Ref. 5070 in 18k white gold
Estimate: CHF 250,000 - 500,000
Aurel Bacs, Senior Consultant
You’d think there’s no connection between this Audemars Piguet from the ’40s and my other pick, a Patek Philippe from the mid-2010s. But there is, beyond the fact that they’re both favorites of mine.
This Audemars Piguet Ref. 5503, from 1942, combines stainless steel and pink gold. Even the Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 was never made in two-tone.
The Ref. 5503 also stands apart in its dial layout, with circular displays for the calendar and chronograph, rather than the twin apertures used by so many others at the time, including Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.
Then there’s the size at 36mm – it’s nearly 2mm larger than most watches of the period.
My other pick, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5070, is an all-time favorite. It wears beautifully and is the last chronograph powered by a Lemania ébauche.
This example is from the Saatchi edition, made for the 2015 Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in London, years after the model had been discontinued, and with a striking salmon dial created just for that series.
So, what do the Audemars Piguet Ref. 5503 and the Patek Philippe Ref. 5070 have in common, beyond being chronographs and my favorites? Well, reportedly, only five examples of each were made. And that is what links them and, to me, they are a perfect match!
Lot 24: Agassiz Watch Co. "Victory Watch – Charles de Gaulle" in 18k yellow gold
Estimate: CHF 300,000 - 600,000
Lot 170: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15202 in titanium and platinum
Estimate: CHF 50,000 - 100,000
Marcello de Marco, Senior International Specialist
I have chosen two pieces that sit at opposite ends of the spectrum of watch collecting.
On one hand, one of the most significant watches in history: a 1945 Agassiz world time pocket watch with a cloisonné enamel dial depicting Joan of Arc, the patron saint of France.
On the caseback, the “Victory” motif straddles a depiction of the world and above it is an engraved dedication: “1939 – General Charles de Gaulle – 1945.”
Indeed, this watch was presented to General de Gaulle to mark the end of World War II, one of the most pivotal moments in modern history. It is one of just four watches made for the statesmen associated with the Allied victory: Truman, Churchill, de Gaulle, and Stalin.
It transcends watchmaking. It is a relic, an object that captures a moment whose impact is still felt today.
On the other hand, something entirely different: sheer beauty, modern appeal. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15202IP, a contemporary icon.
Produced until a few years ago, this version pairs an ultra-light titanium case with a polished platinum bezel and central bracelet links that set off a blue dégradé dial. It is an absolute blast on the wrist and rare too – it was limited to just 250 pieces.
These two watches reflect two distinct facets of watch collecting and, in many ways, two facets of Phillips. On one side, historically significant, museum-worthy objects; on the other, incredibly cool, wearable, super attractive pieces. That contrast is exactly what drew me to this pairing.
Lot 225: Vacheron Constantin "Cioccolatone" Ref. 4764 in 18k pink gold
Estimate: CHF 250,000 - 500,000
Lot 65: Greubel Forsey X Philippe Dufour X Michel Boulanger Naissance d'une Montre I (N°1/11) in 18k white gold
Estimate: CHF 400,000 - 800,000
Alexandre Ghotbi, Deputy Chairman, Head of Watches, Europe & Middle East
Together, these two watchesreally reflect the two sides of my watch collecting journey: vintage Vacheron Constantin and independent watchmaking.
The first is the Vacheron Constantin Ref. 4764 Cioccolatone from the 1950s. For me, it perfectly captures Vacheron Constantin’s classic style with a twist. The case was huge for its time, with its curved profile and stepped construction, and it is paired with a stunning silver dial displaying day, date, month, and moon phase.
The condition is extraordinary, and the design remains completely timeless. If I could, this is a watch I would keep on my wrist rather than see in the auction catalogue.
The second is something entirely different: the Naissance d’une Montre 1. I remember when the project was first announced, bringing together Greubel Forsey, Philippe Dufour, Vianney Halter, and Kari Voutilainen through the Time Æon Foundation, with the aim of preserving traditional handmade techniques in watchmaking.
Michel Boulanger, a watchmaking teacher near Paris, was trained by Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour to produce a complete watch entirely by hand. The result is this piece – number 1 of 11 – made in white gold.
Uniquely, it is the only example fully made and assembled by Boulanger himself. And, at the request of the original owner, who is now consigning this, even the case was made entirely by hand, requiring several additional months of work.
Lot 153: Rolex Cellini "Maha" Ref. 3393 in diamond-set platinum
Estimate: CHF 50,000 - 100,000
Lot 34: Urban Jürgensen Reference 6 in 18k yellow gold
Estimate: CHF 40,000 - 80,000
Tiffany To, Head of Sale, Senior International Specialist
The joy of our job, as specialists, is uncovering or rediscovering new treasures. Every time something new comes up, we get a chill down our spines, and I think that could be said for these two watches.
The first is a Rolex Cellini Ref. 3393 "Maha" from the 1970s. It’s not just any Cellini. This example is set with over 28 carats of brilliant-cut diamonds, flowing across the bracelet, clasp, and bezel.
What makes it even more remarkable is the accompanying letter from Rolex, signed by Patrick Heiniger, confirming that it is probably unique.
The second is an Urban Jürgensen Reference 6. And again, not just any example. This reference, with its tonneau-shaped case and manual-winding movement – the only model with manual-winding movement of the period – was a commercial failure at the time, meaning very few were produced.
This particular piece, with its lapis lazuli dial, was known among collectors but never publicly shown.
What makes it especially compelling is that it reveals a completely different aesthetic from the brand in the 1990s – something few have had the chance to see.
So, two pieces, two rediscovered treasures, and we’re delighted to be able to share them with you.
Lot 87: Rolex Day-Date "Octopussy" Ref. 1804 in 18k white gold and diamonds
Estimate: CHF 80,000 - 160,000
Lot 3: Daniel Roth Extra Plat ref. DBB001 in 18k pink gold
Estimate: CHF 20,000 - 40,000
Tadzio Nuno, International Business Development Strategist
I’ve chosen two very special watches – one over 50 years old, the other very recent.
The first is my absolute favorite of the upcoming sale: a Rolex Day-Date Ref. 1804 in white gold.
And not just any Day-Date: it features a Stella dial, which is extremely rare. Here, it’s in a rich oxblood Bordeaux tone. On top of that, it’s fitted with the so-called “Octopussy” bracelet, whose diamond-set links evoke the suction-cupped tentacles of an octopus.
It’s a fantastic watch – something you can wear at night with a suit on, say, the French Riviera. A true gem.
My second pick is the recently released Daniel Roth Extra Plat DBB001, an extra-flat, time-only piece made by La Fabrique du Temps.
Crafted in pink gold with a white gold dial, it is extremely elegant – much more sober than the Rolex, but equally attractive.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII catalog here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
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The Golden Age of the Triple Calendar