Our first live auction of 2025, the PHILLIPS Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, takes place on 10 - 11 May, at the Hotel President, at Quai Wilson 47, in central Geneva. The auction includes nearly 200 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it's one of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sale over the next month, including all the watches detailed below.
– By Logan Baker
The world of independent watchmaking will come together as Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo presents an extraordinary charity auction during the Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, taking place on 10-11 May 2025.
Eleven of the most well-known independent watchmakers and brands have generously donated timepieces to benefit the Philippe and Elisabeth Dufour Foundation, a charitable initiative dedicated to addressing pressing humanitarian challenges in Switzerland and around the world.
Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo has always championed independent watchmakers, viewing these brands as the next generation of watchmaking excellence. With the likes of Philippe Dufour, Ludovic Ballouard, Artya, Magana, Carl F. Bucherer, Miki Eleta, Jacob & Co., Berney, Moritz Grossmann, Bovet, and Havid Nagan participating, this auction is poised to be one of the most notable moments for independent watchmaking in recent history.
Established in June 2023, the Foundation's mission is multifaceted, focusing on providing essential resources such as food, clean water, healthcare, housing, and education to underserved communities.
Additionally, it emphasizes environmental stewardship and the preservation of artisanal crafts. This holistic approach reflects the Dufours' belief in nurturing both the physical and cultural well-being of societies.
A Glimpse at the Watches
Lot 129: A Unique Philippe Dufour Simplicity in a 37mm Pink Gold Case with Butterfly Wings Dial
Estimate: In excess of CHF 400,000
The dial of the present unique Philippe Dufour Simplicity is absolutely jaw-dropping gorgeous. Colorful with different layers and structures, the dial may look like a mix of enamel, marquetry, and engraving, but in fact, it is intriguingly made of butterfly wings made by artist Dominique Arpa-Cirpka.
This is the very first time Dufour has used such "metiers d’art" on the dial of one of his watches. To avoid any interference with the dial’s beauty, the brand name is not printed on the dial but engraved on the sapphire crystal, for the same reason Dufour decided against having a sub-seconds counter as well.
The rest of the watch is the classic Simplicity that collectors have come to love: an elegant 37mm case with elongated lugs and a beautiful movement with impeccably applied Geneva stripes, superb interior and exterior angles, and black polished components. Every element has been painstakingly hand-finished by the master watchmaker.
Philippe Dufour exemplifies what we have collectively come to imagine as the typical Swiss watchmaker: a pipe-smoking solitary figure working in a small workshop in the Swiss mountains making watches by hand of incomparable beauty and quality infused with passion and love.
Lot 123: A Unique Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down 'L’Anniversaire' in Platinum with Miniature Enamel Dial
Estimate: In excess of CHF 120,000
The Upside Down "L’Anniversaire" is a true work of art — mechanically and visually.
Mechanically, it’s pure Ballouard: 12 rotating discs, each flipped upside down except for the current hour, marked by a dot that appears only when the numeral is right-side up. At the top of each hour, the old hour flips back over, and the new one swings into place. Flip the watch over, and the technical magic continues.
Through the sapphire caseback, you’ll see a dance of tiny pinions and finely finished maltese crosses. Watching it work is almost as captivating as reading the time.
Visually, it’s just as special. The dial features a hand-painted enamel reproduction of Marc Chagall’s The Birthday, created by Caroline Cottin in Ballouard’s own metiers d’art workshop — the first dial fully made in-house.
Chagall painted The Birthday in 1915, capturing a tender, dreamlike kiss with his soon-to-be wife, Bella. On the dial, the painting’s vibrant colors and emotion come through beautifully, rendered with the same poetry and depth that made the original a masterpiece.
Lot 127: A Unique Moritz Grossmann Tefnut 'Silver-Plated by Friction' in Stainless Steel with Blue Lacquer Accents
Estimate: In excess of CHF 27,000
Moritz Grossmann brings a singular piece of Glashütte craftsmanship to the Philippe and Elisabeth Dufour Foundation with the Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction — a one-off creation that dives deep into traditional watchmaking.
The dial steals the show. Finished using the rare 19th-century technique of silver-plating by friction, it gets its soft, matte texture from a mix of silver powder, salt, and cream of tartar, all worked into the surface by hand. The result is a velvety finish that catches light in a way no modern treatment can.
For the first time in the Tefnut line, the dial features engraved and lacquered blue numerals, scales, and branding. The Moritz Grossmann signature, done in a historic typeface, nods to the brand’s roots. Heat-blued hands, crafted by hand, pull the whole look together.
The watch comes in a polished stainless steel case, measuring 39mm across, and runs on the hand-wound caliber 102.1. You get all the hallmarks of proper German watchmaking: pillar movement construction, a cantilevered balance cock with Grossmann’s signature poising screw, and a removable winding block. Look closer, and you’ll find hand-engraved details, Glashütte ribbing, and blue-annealed screws that match the dial perfectly. A deep blue kudu leather strap finishes the look.
Lot 125: A Unique Bovet Récital 12 in Titanium with Bracelet
Estimate: In excess of CHF 24,800
Bovet is known for its spectacularly complicated watches, often winning international prizes for its work. With the Récital 12, the brand brings that same level of craftsmanship to a clean, contemporary design.
Inside is an in-house caliber with a seven-day power reserve, driving a layout that balances tradition with modernity. Hours and minutes sit on an off-center dial to the right, while a trio of hands tracks the seconds on the left. A power reserve indicator sits cleanly at 12 o’clock.
This unique piece features a black lacquer dial bearing the logo of the Philippe and Elisabeth Dufour Foundation.
Lot 126: An Artya Curvy Purity Tourbillon Ruby
Estimate: In excess of CHF 160,000
Founded in 2009 by industry veteran Yvan Arpa, Artya has built its own path in watchmaking, blending raw creativity with serious technical chops. The Curvy Purity Tourbillon Ruby, created for the Philippe and Elisabeth Dufour Foundation, shows exactly what the brand is all about.
The case, carved from ruby red sapphire, takes over 200 hours to mill and hand-polish. Inside, an architectural movement seems to float, anchored by sandblasted cast iron bridges. Up top, a skeletonized dial at 12 o'clock is flanked by twin barrels that deliver 72 hours of power. Below, a massive 18mm tourbillon dominates the lower half of the watch.
And there’s a twist: hit the case with UV light and it glows, adding a shot of playfulness to the serious mechanics.
The caseback is engraved with "Philippe & Elisabeth Dufour Foundation" and "Piece Unique 1/1."
Lot 124: A Unique Carl F. Bucherer Peripheral Automatic in 18k Pink Gold
Estimate: In excess of CHF 20,500
Carl F. Bucherer is among the few brands that have mastered the peripheral rotor. Instead of sitting on top of the movement, the rotor runs around its edge, keeping the profile slim while preserving a traditional bridge layout.
Since 2009, the peripheral rotor has been a signature for the brand, with steady technical refinements. This unique piece, created for the Philippe and Elisabeth Dufour Foundation, features the caliber A2050 — a COSC-certified chronometer with a free-sprung balance and sharp finishing throughout.
The deep blue dial carries the Foundation’s logo, mirrored again on the sapphire caseback. Even the rotor is blued to match. The 40.6mm pink gold case pulls everything together, framing the dial for a strong, modern look.
Lot 121: A Miki Eleta 'Time in Space' Wristwatch in Stainless Steel
Estimate: In excess of CHF 3,000
At first glance, Miki Eleta’s Time in Space flips everything you expect from a wristwatch. No dial. No numerals. No obvious hands. Instead, it asks you to slow down and engage.
A single hour hand does double duty: it points to the time, but it also carries a rotating wheel. You can read the hour off the wheel or the hand itself. Minutes are tracked by a small extension on the hour hand, sweeping a 60-degree arc from one spoke to the next. It takes a little getting used to — but that’s the point. Time in Space isn’t about instant legibility. It’s about feeling the passage of time.
Underneath the artistic display, the watch runs on a manually wound, sandblasted, and gold-plated ETA movement, good for a 48-hour power reserve. The steel case measures 48mm across, making sure the design’s boldness matches its presence on the wrist.
Lot 122: A Havid Nagan Classic One Prototype in Stainless Steel
Estimate: In excess of CHF 8,000
Havid Nagan is the passion project of Aren Bazerkanian, who launched the brand in 2022 after running the F.P. Journe boutique in Los Angeles.
After two cushion-shaped models, Havid Nagan introduced its first round watch, the Classic One, this year. This piece is the original prototype.
The dial shows off the brand’s eye for detail, layering a textured background with a smooth cream upper dial for a sharp, modern look. The case construction is just as thoughtful — built from 29 parts, with a mix of brushed and polished finishes that catch the light beautifully.
Flip it over, and the movement doesn't disappoint. Pink gold-galvanized plates and ruthenium-plated bridges bring plenty of visual depth, while the 62-hour power reserve keeps things practical.
Lot 119: A Berney Ref. 8448 Complete Calendar Chronograph in Stainless Steel
Estimate: In excess of CHF 5,500
Founded in 1972 by Henri Berney in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux, Berney built its reputation on chronographs powered by vintage movements.
This Berney ref. 8448 runs on the celebrated Valjoux 88, a legendary caliber based on the simple Valjoux 22 and 79, but upgraded with a full calendar and moonphase.
The watch comes in a 39mm stainless steel case with a black dial and elegant Breguet numerals. Day and month windows sit at 12 o’clock, the date is tracked by a red-tipped central hand along the edge of the dial, and the moon-phase appears in an aperture at 6 o'clock.
The result is a refined and balanced chronograph that resembles the iconic Patek Philippe ref. 3970.
Lot 120: A Magana Sands of Time 'Tribute to Liwa' Limited Edition in DLC-Coated Titanium
Estimate: In excess of CHF 2,100
It’s always refreshing to find a watch brand coming from outside the traditional centers of horology.
Magana, launched in 2023 and based in the UAE, is one of them. The brand focuses on mechanical watchmaking with practical complications, thoughtful design, and a commitment to culture and sustainability.
The Sands of Time collection pays tribute to humanity’s shared responsibility to care for the Earth, drawing inspiration from three of the world’s great deserts.
This example honors the Liwa Desert in southern Abu Dhabi. Limited to just 20 pieces, it features a sand-colored DLC-coated stainless steel case and displays the day, date, and month.
Magana also pledges to plant 212 trees for every watch sold, working with the "Trees for the Future" foundation to help reforest parts of the Sub-Saharan desert.
Lot 128: A Jacob & Co. 'The World is Yours' Dual Time-Zone Limited Edition in 18k Pink Gold
Estimate: In excess of CHF 52,000
Jacob & Co has built its name on bold designs and serious technical feats. But with The World is Yours Dual Time-Zone, the brand shows it can also dial things back — without losing any impact.
At first glance, this dual time-zone watch feels more restrained than what we’ve come to expect from Jacob & Co. Look closer, though, and the details shine. The domed dial, with a 3.7mm height difference from its lowest to highest points, starts with a blue lacquer base representing the oceans. Carved pink gold-plated landmasses rise above it. Two time-zone indicators sit at the top and bottom of the dial, while a wind rose-shaped seconds hand anchors the center.
Fun fact: Philippe Dufour himself wears this exact model.
This The World is Yours is number 167 of a limited run of 999 pieces and comes complete with its full set of accessories.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Geneva Watch Auction: XXI catalogue right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
Recommended Reading
How Independent Watchmakers Are Rethinking the Escapement
Why Collectors Are Falling Back in Love With Time-Only Vintage Watches
Inside The Philippe and Elisabeth Dufour Foundation