Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is thrilled to welcome you to The Hong Kong Sessions, Spring 2025, online auction, running from 12:00 PM HKT, Wednesday, 19 March, to 2:00 PM HKT, Wednesday, 26 March. Featuring more than 120 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, including all the watches featured below.
– By Logan Baker
In the grand tapestry of fine watchmaking, few names resonate with the same reverence as Patek Philippe.
Since its inception in 1839, this Swiss maison has been the epitome of watchmaking excellence, weaving complications and aesthetics into timepieces that are nothing short of art.
Among their illustrious creations, the Annual Calendar Moonphase Ref. 5205 stands as a testament to Patek Philippe's innovative spirit and dedication to timeless elegance.
The Genesis of the Annual Calendar
Before we delve into the nuances of the Ref. 5205, it's essential to appreciate the significance of the annual calendar complication.
Introduced by Patek Philippe in 1996, the annual calendar was a groundbreaking innovation that filled the gap between the simple date mechanism and the intricate perpetual calendar. This complication automatically accounts for the varying lengths of months, requiring only a single adjustment at the end of February each year. It offered watch enthusiasts a practical and more accessible alternative to the perpetual calendar, without compromising on sophistication.
Unveiling the Ref. 5205
Launched in 2010, the Ref. 5205 initially graced the watchmaking world in white gold, featuring two-tone dials that exuded a contemporary flair. These early models, with their silver-grey or slate-grey paired with matte black dials, presented a sportier aesthetic, a slight departure from Patek's traditional dress watch designs.
In 2013, the collection expanded to include rose gold variants with opaline white and black lacquered dials, catering to aficionados with a penchant for classic elegance.
However, it was in 2018 that the Ref. 5205 truly captivated the horological community. Patek Philippe unveiled the Ref. 5205G-013, a white gold model boasting a mesmerizing gradient blue dial. This sunburst dial transitions gracefully from a vibrant blue at the center to a deep black at the periphery, reminiscent of a twilight sky fading into night.
The Ref. 5205's design is a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity.
The 40mm case, crafted from 18k white gold, features a slightly concave bezel and delicately pierced lugs, lending the watch a sleek and dynamic profile. At 11.36mm in thickness, it maintains a presence that's substantial yet refined, ensuring it slips comfortably under a cuff.
The dial layout is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. Three apertures arc gracefully across the upper half, displaying the day, date, and month — a signature of Patek's annual calendar watches. At 6 o'clock, a subsidiary dial houses both the 24-hour indicator and the moon phase display. The choice of dauphine hands with luminous coating ensures legibility, while the applied white gold hour markers add a touch of understated luxury.
The Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/206
The Ref. 5205 is powered by the self-winding Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/206. Comprising 356 meticulously finished parts, this movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a power reserve between 35 to 45 hours.
One of the standout features of this caliber is its moon phase display, which is astoundingly accurate, deviating by merely one day every 122 years. Such precision is a testament to Patek Philippe's commitment to horological excellence. The movement's finishing is visible through the sapphire crystal case back, revealing Geneva waves, polished bevels, and a 21k gold central rotor engraved with the Calatrava cross — hallmarks of Patek's artisanal prowess.
The earliest examples of the ref. 5205 were certified by the Geneva Seal, while most models come equipped with Patek Philippe's in-house certification that began to be used in 2009/2010.
A Collector's Perspective
For collectors, the Ref. 5205 presents a compelling proposition.
Its blend of innovative complication, exquisite design, and the prestige of the Patek Philippe name make it a coveted addition to any collection. The 2018 introduction of the gradient blue dial variant added a fresh dimension to the lineup, appealing to both seasoned collectors and newcomers alike.
The secondary market reflects the desirability of this reference. Earlier white gold models with two-tone dials can be found at more accessible price points, while the gradient blue dial versions command a premium, underscoring their popularity and contemporary appeal.
The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moonphase Ref. 5205 is a masterclass in blending technical ingenuity with timeless aesthetics.
From its annual calendar complication to its elegantly sculpted case and mesmerizing dial options, this watch represents everything that makes Patek Philippe one of the most revered names in horology.
It occupies a unique space within the brand’s lineup, offering collectors an ultra-refined dress watch that carries just enough contemporary flair to keep it fresh and versatile. Whether paired with formal attire or worn casually with confidence, the Ref. 5205G-013 is a piece that commands attention without being ostentatious.
Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a newcomer to high-end watchmaking, this Patek Philippe is a watch that will delight for years — perhaps even generations — to come.
You can view the complete catalog for the Phillips Hong Kong Sessions, Spring 2025, Online Auction, right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
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