Our first live auctions of fall 2024 season, PHILLIPS RELOADED: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999, and the Geneva Watch Auction: XX, take place on November 8, 9, and 10, at the Hotel President, at Quai Wilson 47, in central Geneva. The auctions include more than 195 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think they're some of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sales over the next month, including the watches highlighted in this article.
– By Logan Baker
While established brands played a crucial role in the neo-vintage renaissance, perhaps the most significant development of the era was the rise of independent watchmakers. The 1980s and 1990s saw the emergence of this new vanguard – watchmakers who operated outside the traditional corporate structures, driven by a passion for innovation and an uncompromising dedication to their craft. These independents became the torchbearers for a new kind of watchmaking, one that prioritized artistry and individuality over mass production.
Philippe Dufour is perhaps the most celebrated name among the independents of this era. His commitment to traditional watchmaking methods and hand-finishing earned him a reputation without equal. The release of the Duality in 1996, the first wristwatch to feature dual escapements, was a testament to his technical prowess and innovative spirit.
François-Paul Journe, another luminary of independent watchmaking, began his career in the 1980s and quickly established himself as a visionary. With his motto “Invenit et Fecit,” Journe created groundbreaking timepieces that were both technically innovative and aesthetically distinct. His early work, such as the Tourbillon Souverain, set new standards for precision and design.
Svend Andersen, co-founder of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) in 1985, played a pivotal role in promoting independent watchmaking during the neo- vintage period. Known for his bespoke creations, Andersen’s work epitomized the artisanal spirit of the era, offering highly customized timepieces that catered to the desires of discerning collectors
Michel Parmigiani, who founded Parmigiani Fleurier in 1996, also emerged as a significant figure in this movement. His approach combined traditional craftsmanship with a modern sensibility, resulting in watches that were both innovative and deeply rooted in the history of watchmaking. His early works, such as the Toric collection, displayed a unique blend of technical mastery and artistic expression that would become his signature.
Lastly, Franck Muller, who signed his earliest watches as Franck Genève, made a significant impact with his flamboyant style and complex complications. Known as the “Master of Complications,” Muller’s early creations, such as the Double Chronograph, captivated collectors with their bold design and ingenious mechanics.
While established brands played a crucial role in the resurgence of mechanical watchmaking, the neo-vintage era was also defined by the rise of watchmakers like these men who brought fresh perspectives and ideas to the industry. These mavericks were unencumbered by the constraints of tradition and corporate oversight, allowing them to explore new horizons in watch design and engineering. Their work laid the groundwork for the flourishing independent watchmaking scene we see today, where creativity and innovation are paramount.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Phillips RELOADED catalog right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
About Logan Baker
Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.
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