A Focus on Underrated Patek Philippe Calatravas

A Focus on Underrated Patek Philippe Calatravas

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is excited to announce The Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, online auction, taking place from 12:00 PM HKT, Friday, September 20, to 2:00 PM HKT, Friday, September 27. Featuring more than 135 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. It even includes the multiple Patek Philippe Calatrava wristwatches featured in this article.


Lot 8017: A Circa 2005 Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5296G-001 in 18k White Gold

Estimate: HKD $120,000 - 200,000

Characterized by its simple and elegant design, the Calatrava lineage traces its roots back to the 1930s with the introduction of its first model, the reference 96. Patek Philippe continues to perpetuate the classic design of the Calatrava, paying homage to one of the finest symbols in the history of watchmaking. Introduced in 2005, the reference 5296 is a modern interpretation of the Calatrava, inspired by vintage models from the 1930’s. It was first introduced in sleek 38mm white gold case, followed by a subsequent variant in pink gold. 

Lot 8017: A Circa 2005 Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5296G-001 in 18k White Gold that's included in the Phillips Watches Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction. Estimate: HKD $120,000 - 200,000

Encased in white gold, the present timepiece boasts a highly appealing sectorial design, executed in a captivating two-tone manner. The inclusion of the Arabic 5-minute markers along the periphery further contributes to its classic vintage aesthetic, seamlessly complementing the date display at 3 o’clock.

Offered in attractive condition and accompanied by its complete set of accessories, the present specimen is a timeless classic not to be missed by the discerning collectors. This Calatrava will surely remain a coveted classic for many years to come.

Lot 8018: A 1993 Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3796 in Platinum

Estimate: HKD $65,000 - 130,000

Introduced in 1982, the Patek Philippe reference 3796 is a descendant of the reference 96, the first and original Calatrava from the 1930s. In production until 1999, the 3796 is characterized by its “neo-vintage” design which held on to the small size of the original Calatrava. Both measuring at 31mm in diameter, the two references look almost identical on the wrist with the classical three-part case featuring a flat polished bezel atop a brushed middle case extended by the simple flat downward-curving lugs.

Lot 8018: A 1993 Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3796 in Platinum that's included in the Phillips Watches Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction. Estimate: HKD $65,000 - 130,000

The reference 3796 comes in many variations across the different case metals, and the present specimen boasts a rare and mesmerizing dial configuration characterised by diamond-set hour markers that are set against a white ivory dial. Baguette-cut diamonds are positioned at the 3, 9, and 12 o’clock, amidst the rest of the brilliant-cut diamonds. This is balanced by the subsidiary second at the 6 o’clock, with simple black markers and a leaf-style hand. The dial is beautifully swept over by the iconic dauphine hands for the hours and minutes, emanating a timeless elegance and understated refinement overall. The lower-case Greek letter sigma beside the "Swiss" signature at the bottom of the dial further indicates that the hands and hour markers of the watch are made of solid gold.

The present timepiece is powered by the manual calibre 215 PS stamped with the Geneva Seal, attesting to the quality of the decoration and finishing of the movement in accordance with the highest standards of Genevan watchmaking. Offered in exceptional overall condition and delivered with a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archive confirming date of manufacture of the present timepiece in 1993, the present timepiece is a rare gem, and an enchanting find not to be missed by the discerning collectors.

Lot 8034: A Circa 1995 Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3923S in 18k Pink Gold

Estimate: HKD $40,000 - 80,000

First introduced in 1986, the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 3923 was produced for approximately 13 to 14 years. Predominantly produced in yellow gold and pink gold with bullet indexes and dauphine hands. Featuring a 32mm diameter two-piece snap back case made by Ateliers Reunis, the Calatrava style case is simply timeless. Powered by the firm’s cal. 215 S manual calibre it features the robust Gyromax balance.

Lot 8034: A Circa 1995 Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3923S in 18k Pink Gold that's included in the Phillips Watches Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction. Estimate: HKD $40,000 - 80,000

Well-received, the reference was also launched in limited edition series for the Japanese in market in stainless steel and for Taiwanese retailer Wu Shang’s 25th anniversary in two versions: pink gold with ruby indexes, and pink gold with pink dial like the present example.

The present example Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 3923 in pink gold from circa 1995 was originally sold in Taiwan. The sapphire caseback marks the celebration of the long standing collaboration between Wu Shang and Patek Philippe. Accompanied with its Certificate of Origin and preserved in excellent overall condition with deep hallmarks, the present pink on pink timepiece will surely delight collectors of Calatravas.

Lot 8039: A Circa 1998 Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5022G-010 in 18k White Gold

Estimate: HKD $65,000 - 130,000

The Patek Philippe reference 5022G was launched in 1997 and was in production for only 7 years until 2003. Available in white gold, yellow gold, pink gold and platinum, a different guilloché dial was introduced for each metal in 1998, in addition to the original white enamel dial.

Lot 8039: A Circa 1998 Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5022G-010 in 18k White Gold that's included in the Phillips Watches Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction. Estimate: HKD $65,000 - 130,000

Boasting a slim profile and a classic aesthetic, the present 5022G example is characterised by an Art Deco dial design. The exquisite black guilloché dial is surrounded by a contrasting silver brushed minute ring, matching the silvered subsidiary dial and the san serif Patek Philippe signature that is set on a silver surface. The dial is further complemented by the applied white gold Roman numerals, imbuing a distinctive decorative style to the timepiece and achieving a perfect match to the simplicity of the Calatrava case with the smooth stepped bezel and straight lugs.

Powered by the manual caliber 215, the movement of the watch beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 44-hour power reserve. Offered in excellent condition, and complete with its box and papers, the present reference 5022G from circa 1998 is a highly desirable and collectible timepiece not to be missed by the discerning collectors.

Lot 8042: A Circa 2015 Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5153G-012 in 18k White Gold

Estimate: HKD $120,000 - 200,000

Released in a limited edition of 80 pieces to commemorate The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition London 2015, the present reference 5153G is a classic dress watch featuring a beautiful silvered dial adorned with applied Breguet numerals, matching Breguet hands, railway minute track, center seconds, and a date aperture at 3 o’clock.

Lot 8042: A Circa 2015 Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5153G-012 in 18k White Gold that's included in the Phillips Watches Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction. Estimate: HKD $120,000 - 200,000

Housed in a 38mm Patek Philippe’s iconic officer-style white gold case, the design of the present watch perpetuates the timeless elegance of the Calatrava model and further boasts a charming vintage appeal with the straight lugs, screwed strap bars, onion-shaped crown, and a hinged case back engraved with “PATEK PHILIPPE LONDON 2015.”

Opening the hinged case back reveals a hidden sapphire display back, proudly showcasing the in-house automatic caliber 324SC stamped with the Patek Philippe Seal. The present example is well-preserved and is accompanied by its full set of accessories, making it a perfect addition to the collection of a lucky watch connoisseur.

 

Lot 8093: A Circa 1994 Patek Philippe Calatrava 'Pink on Pink' Ref. 3796 in 18k Pink Gold

Estimate: HKD $60,000 - 100,000

Descended from the original 1930s Calatrava ref. 96, the ref. 3796 was produced from 1982-1999 at 31mm diameter, echoing its forebear's presence. This rare example features a charming "pink on pink" combination, evoking vintage 1920s aesthetics.

Lot 8093: A Circa 1994 Patek Philippe Calatrava 'Pink on Pink' Ref. 3796 in 18k Pink Gold that's included in the Phillips Watches Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction. Estimate: HKD $60,000 - 100,000

The well-preserved pink gold case matches the delightful pink gold Sigma dial, creating perfect harmony. Pink gold dauphine hands and applied baton markers generate depth, radiating elegant appeal. In exceptional overall condition, this striking timepiece exemplifies Patek Philippe's subtle elegance and timeless style.

You can view the complete catalog for the Phillips Watches Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2024, Online Auction, right here.


About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.

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