Our first live auction of 2024, the PHILLIPS Geneva Watch Auction: XIX, takes place on May 11 and 12, at the Hotel President, at Quai Wilson 47 in central Geneva. The auction includes more than 215 of the world's finest watches – and though we are loath to boast, we truly think it's one of the best catalogs we've ever put together. We'll be highlighting a number of the most interesting lots and stories featured in the sale right here, including all the models highlighted by our team below.
There are more than 215 incredible timepieces to discover in the catalog for our upcoming Geneva Watch Auction: XIX. There's so many wonderful watches to discover that it can be extremely difficult to select a single lot from the sale that's right for you.
Alas, the heart wants what the heart wants.
We believe it's foolish to turn away from the watches you love the most, so while preparing for the Geneva Watch Auction: XIX, we challenged a number of specialists and staffers in the Phillips Geneva office on what watch – one watch – would they choose to take home with them, if they could?
Their answers might surprise you.
Lot 146: A Circa 1995 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 16520 With 'Tropical' Sub-Dials
Tiffany To, Head Of Sale, Senior International Specialist
Estimate: CHF 15,000 - 30,000
Patek Philippe’s reference 130 is without a doubt one of the brand’s landmark vintage models. It subtly merges the "Calatrava" case design - defined by clean, simple, utilitarian lines following the Bauhaus mantra “form follows function” - with the sporty elegance of a chronograph. In production for close to 30 years, reference 130 was made in yellow, pink and white gold and - a minority - in steel with a diverse range of different dial variations.
The present specimen is a highly appealing variation featuring a superb two-tone silvered sector dial cased in stainless steel. It is considered one of the most desirable combinations for collectors. It is interesting to note how sector dials were in fashion for a remarkably short time. They are usually found on watches made during the second decade of the 1930s. It appears that Patek realised a number of sectorial designs, differing from each other in the number of sectors and type of numerals employed. The dial is preserved in overall honest and lovely condition, with the hard enamel long signature and scales without losses or signs of restoration – as an even nicer touch, the dial is confirmed by the Extract.
Lot 182: A Circa 2008 Marc Brogsitter Ref. 2181 In 18k White Gold
Alexandre Ghotbi, Head Of Watches, Continental Europe And EME
Estimate: CHF 35,000 - 70,000
I still remember Basel Fair in the early 2000s where I bumped into Philippe Dufour who grabbed me by the arm telling me he wanted to show me something I absolutely had to see, and I have to admit I was flabbergasted. Marc Brogsitter has a few prototypes of watches that he was working on and his no compromise, no cutting corners and pure passion and historical knowledge were just oozing from his watches.
Launching an small artisanal independent brand at the time was quite different then and requires faith and a bit of madness! The present tourbillon is a beautiful homage to the golden era of watchmaking, it is at the same time a mechanical wonder, a gem of horological design and a piece that helped build the way in making independent watchmaking the power player it is today.
Lot 105: A Possibly Unique 1960 Vacheron Constantin Ref. 6465 In Platinum With Gay Frères bracelet
Marcello de Marco, Specialist, Business Development Associate
Estimate: CHF 60,000 - 120,000
Finding a vintage watchmaking masterpiece is becoming increasingly difficult. The “natural reservoir” provided by some countries pioneers of collecting is slowly but surely dwindling and - also in light of this - owners of legendary pieces are more jealous than ever of their prize possessions. Still not only vintage grail pieces can still be found, but at very rare times specimens are discovered that due to their importance were deemed by the manufacturer deserving of their own unique reference number. An example is the unique white gold Vacheron Constantin 222 ref. 44518 - sold at Phillips in May 2023 - which was originally intended to be diamond set, and thus bearing ref. 44518 instead of 44508.
The present platinum time-only wristwatch is another such gem: ref. 6465 is so far only known for this one example. Beyond the intellectual appeal of owning a unique vintage watch by one of the “Holy Trinity” brands (AP, PP, VC), the looks of the watch are absolutely stunning. The case and dial alone are superb, striking the perfect sweet spot between flamboyance (diamond setting, carved lugs) and elegance (sunburst dial finish, lack of any scale). The Gay Fréres bracelet however elevates the ensemble to another level. It is as well the only example so far know of this model and it features an absolutely incredible construction: a large, polished and horizontally ribbed central row of links is flanked on each side by two rows of smaller satin-finished links. The final effect is unspeakably beautiful, propelling this watch to the top of my list for this sale.
Lot 29: A Previously Unknown 1999 A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Ref. 101.026X In Stainless Steel With Blue Dial
Clément Finet, Specialist, Perpetual, Gstaad
Estimate: CHF 150,000 - 300,000
The Lange 1 is not only a total watch icon, it’s also the watch that put Lange on the map (along with the original “Pour le Mérite” Tourbillon - our lot 200) and redefined in many ways the industry quality standards of the day. Imagine that, In just a few years, Lange became the sole rival of the unrivaled Patek - although they had no Grand Complication in their catalogue other than the “Pour le Mérite”. What a feat from what was still to many an obscure German watchmaker…
Anyhow, let’s go back to our “unicorn Lange 1”. First, let’s acknowledge that this is a very early Lange timepiece. Indeed, its case number reads 117.972… That is a super low number when you consider the fact that modern Langes (post 1994) start at 110.000… Imagine, that means the Lange of the day, production wise, was about the size of Journe today…
As for the steel case, as stated in our catalogue essay, it has always been a sort of mystery. It’s not a limited edition, it wasn’t a marketing gimmick… It’s just one of those UFOs that has kept collectors thinking and dreaming for decades…
Lot 106: A 2012 Patek Philippe Chronograph Ref. 3670A-001 In Stainless Steel
Logan Baker, Senior Editorial Manager
Estimate: CHF 500,000 - 1,000,000
Patek Philippe is always the star of the auction season. It's always a pleasure to sit and look through the different catalogs to discover what remarkable forgotten vintage creations have been unearthed each season.
It's usually exactly that which captures my attention – a special vintage mid-century Patek reference that I nerd out over and covet indiscriminately for months following the sales.
It's different this spring. The watch I'm obsessing over comes from 2012. It's the remarkable ref. 3670A-001, a stainless steel, cushion-shaped chronograph that borrows a beautiful, new-old-stock caliber 13-130 from the Patek's archives.
The story behind the 3670 states that when Patek Philippe was moving its workshop to its current Plan-les-Ouates location from its historic address on Geneva's rue du Rhone, they unexpectedly discovered a chest with 16 examples of the caliber 13-130 that had been assembled and adjusted all the way back in 1955.
The caliber 13-130, if you aren't aware, is the movement found inside iconic vintage Patek chronograph references like the legendary 130 and 1463, among others.
To celebrate the discovery, Patek Philippe disassembled and reassembled the movements and placed them inside stainless steel cushion-shaped cases inspired by chronographs of the 1920s. It's a remarkably special watch, one that I'd do just about anything to add to my collection.
Lot 50: Cartier, Tank Cintrée from Cartier London
Arthur Touchot, Int. Head of Digital Strategy & Specialist
Estimate: CHF 70,000 - 140,000
Despite the growing interest in vintage Cartier watches, I see that none of my colleagues have selected our Tank Cintree. Big mistake team. As the resident Frenchman I just can't let that happen, not when we have one of the Maison's most interesting pieces in our catalogue.
So let's take a moment to appreciate the present, possibly unique Tank Cintrée. This piece has some serious history, dating all the way back to 1921. It immediatly stood out as one of the largest and boldest variation of Cartier’s Tank line and has remained a staple of the brand's collection. What's particularly intriguing about this one is its origin. The watch was crafted in London, during the 1970s, and it features a very dark ink-blue dial with gold painted numerals - a striking combination, which we've not yet seen in another Cintree of that period. Furthermore, it was owned by a friend and former boss, adding a personal touch to its story. This is indeed a watch worn by Ben Clymer, and I know how much he has valued his time with it. I can confidently say its next owner will feel the same way.
You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Geneva Watch Auction: XIX catalog right here.
About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo
The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.
Recommended Reading
Highlights From Guido Mondani's Watch Collection
The Complete Story Behind The Previously Unknown Steel, Blue Dial Lange 1