A Round-Up Of Independent Watchmaking In The Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2023, Online Auction

A Round-Up Of Independent Watchmaking In The Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2023, Online Auction

Top picks from top indies.

Top picks from top indies.

Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo is thrilled to welcome you to The Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2023, online auction, running from 6:00 PM HKT, Thursday, September 21, to 6:00 PM HKT, Thursday, September 28. Featuring more than 130 different high-end luxury wristwatches, the sale covers everything from A. Lange & Söhne and F.P. Journe to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. All 10 examples of the independent watches featured in this story are available in the sale.


Our very first auction of the fall 2023 season took place earlier this month with the Geneva Sessions, Fall 2023, an online auction. One week later and we're back yet again with another heavy focus on independent watchmaking as part of our new Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2023, online auction

Lot 8005: F.P. Journe Octa Automatique Réserve Boutique Edition In 18k Pink Gold, Circa 2013. Estimate: HKD $350,000 - 650,000

We've already placed a spotlight on a few of our watches in the sale with exclusive stories on Chanel and Ikepod, but as you'll see below, there are plenty more interesting watches to choose from.

 

Lot 8101: Arnold & Son Globetrotter Ref. AS6022 In 18k White Gold, Circa 2018

Estimate: HKD $120,000 - 240,000

Lot 8101: Arnold & Son Globetrotter Ref. AS6022 In 18k White Gold, Circa 2018. Estimate: HKD $120,000 - 240,000

Introduced in 2018, the Arnold & Son Globetrotter dazzles with a large 3D engraving of the Northern Hemisphere that rotates once daily to indicate world time zones on a fixed 24-hour ring. While not a new complication, Arnold & Son's sculptural execution is eye-catching. As with their engraved moonphase Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon, Arnold & Son takes a traditional world timer and enhances it visually.

At 45mm, the lavish engraving makes reading the time zones an artistic delight for horology and geography fans alike. With an independently set hour hand hovering over the engraved oceans and mountains, and an opaline dial with Roman numerals orbiting the polished pivot of the rotating hemisphere, the Globetrotter boldly showcases Arnold & Son's skills in reimagining ornate complications. Preserved in excellent condition with minimal signs of wear, the present Globetrotter exemplifies Arnold and Son's craft in elevating horological artistry.

 

Lot 8005: F.P. Journe Octa Automatique Réserve Boutique Edition In 18k Pink Gold, Circa 2013

Estimate: HKD $350,000 - 650,000

Lot 8005: F.P. Journe Octa Automatique Réserve Boutique Edition In 18k Pink Gold, Circa 2013. Estimate: HKD $350,000 - 650,000

When F.P. Journe first introduced the Octa collection in 2001, it marked one of the brand's pioneering serialised models. After earning appreciation from enthusiasts and collectors alike, Journe decided to enhance the Octa's functionality by introducing the improved cal. 1300.3, requiring less movement from the wearer to stay wound.

Blending comfort, innovation, and personality, the Octa Automatique Rèserve highlights caliber 1300.3 with a variable inertia balance wheel for optimal stability. Its uni-directional 22K pink gold rotor optimizes winding from the slightest wrist motion. With a one-meter mainspring and rapid automatic winding, the movement provides over five days of autonomy - an ease of wear surpassing the ordinary. The legible central hours and large date further enhance functionality.

This rare Octa Automatique Réserve is from the exclusive Boutique Collection, available only in F.P. Journe boutiques. In production between 2009 and 2018, this edition features a striking pink gold case and black dial, distinguishing it from standard Octa Automatique Réserve watches.

The present example is possibly the first of its kind to appear at auction. Offered in attractive condition complete with its original guarantee and accessories, this FP Journe Boutique Edition timepiece will undoubtedly captivate the growing cohort of enthusiasts and collectors worldwide.

 

Lot 8110: Goldpfeil Seven Masters, With Svend Andersen, In 18k Yellow Gold, Circa 2008

Estimate: HKD $25,000 - 50,000

Lot 8110: Goldpfeil Seven Masters, With Svend Andersen, In 18k Yellow Gold, Circa 2008. Estimate: HKD $25,000 - 50,000

The Goldpfeil “Seven Masters” is the opus of seven master watchmakers that represents independent watchmakers of the Millennium. The magnificent seven who were all part of the “Académie Horlogère des Créteurs Indépendants” (AHCI) which includes Vianney Halter, Svend Andersen, Vincent Calabrese, Bernhard Lederer, Antoine Preziuso, Frank Jutzi, and Felix Baumgartner.

The present Pupitre watch is the creation of Svend Andersen, the co-founder of AHCI founded in 1985. The Danish watchmaker first worked with Gübelin Geneva while he created his first Bottle Clock which caught the attention of many. One of them was Patek Philippe where he later on spent nine years at the maison’s Atelier des grandes complications. Famed for his creativity ranging from automatons, world-times and enamel works, Svend Andersen launched his own venture during the late 70s.

Featuring a playful 24 hour display with elongated numerals, the day and night is divided by the date aperture sitting at 6 o’clock. Indicated by the gold arrow hand inspired by the Goldpfeil logo, the minutes can be read by the passing of the blue steeled hand gliding along the railway minute track printed on the sapphire. Well-preserved, the present example will surely delight collectors of independent timepieces.

 

Lot 8064: Hautlence HL 08 Jumping Hour Retrograde Ref. MTE001010-G Limited Edition In Titanium, Circa 2011

Estimate: HKD $120,000 - 240,000

Lot 8064: Hautlence HL 08 Jumping Hour Retrograde Ref. MTE001010-G Limited Edition In Titanium, Circa 2011. Estimate: HKD $120,000 - 240,000

Founded in 2004, Hautlence marries tradition and innovation in contemporary timepieces. This is exemplified in the futuristic HLq 08 Classic, which features an unusual dial with novel jumping hours, retrograde minutes, and an instantaneous date powered by a jewel roller system.

Despite its avant-garde design, the HLq08 retains ties to classic watchmaking through its manual winding in-house movement proudly displayed behind the semi-skeletonized cutouts. The retro-modern 44mm titanium case provides an optimal canvas for the architectural dial and glimpse at the mesmerizing mechanics within.

Preserved in barely worn condition, this example numbered 25 of a limited edition of 88 pieces encapsulates the Hautlence philosophy. With its blend of high-tech style traditional craft, the HLq 08 is simultaneously a timepiece of the future and homage to watchmaking heritage.

 

Lot 8065: HYT H1 DL-482003 Limited Edition In DLC-Coated Titanium, Circa 2012

Estimate: HKD $80,000 - 160,000

Lot 8065: HYT H1 DL-482003 Limited Edition In DLC-Coated Titanium, Circa 2012. Estimate: HKD $80,000 - 160,000

As the ancient Greek philosopher Heraclitus theorizes that time is flux and everything flows like a river, the H1 is a poetic, daring and unique exploration of a hydro timekeeping mechanism. A modern-day clepsydra which emits bubbling joy as you watch the fluorescent green fluids travel in a delicate glass tube around the retrograde hours, this is the perfect watch for the bold and adventurous watch aficionados.

HYT is an acronym for hydro technology, and the brand made their debut with the H1 back in 2012 when founded by engineers Patrick Berdoz, Lucien Vouillamoz and Emmanuel Savioz, instantly sending shockwaves across the watch community.

The H1 combines traditional art-mechanics with the revolutionary technology of a retrograde fluid hour display. A fine minutes dial sits in the middle on the top sector of the semi-skeletonized dial, with a delightful mobile small seconds wheel on the left and power reserve indication on the right, while the bottom of the dial is reserved for two reservoirs, responsible for compression and expansion. This mechanism drives the fluorescent green liquid through a curved borosilicate glass tube, indicating the hour. The fluid is also available in other colours, but the fluorescent green has remained a classic.

The present watch is numbered 003, hinting that the watch was produced very early on. Preserved in exceptional condition, and complete with full accessories, this gem is a testament to the design and engineering genius of which HYT stands for.

 

Lot 8109: Kudoke 2 Deep Blue In Stainless Steel, Circa 2022

Estimate: HKD $48,000 - 95,000

Lot 8109: Kudoke 2 Deep Blue In Stainless Steel, Circa 2022. Estimate: HKD $48,000 - 95,000

In 2019, German independent watchmaker Kudoke introduced the Kudoke 2, launching a voyage into dial artistry across a spectrum of colors: silver, black, anthracite, forest green and salmon. Now the Deep Blue joins the collection as a new variation made by order, extending Kudoke's mastery of texture and hue. On the 39mm polished steel case, an onion crown hints at the mechanical intricacies within. Yet it is the deep blue dial that immediately captivates. Kudoke dials involve hundreds of meticulous steps, with color transitions and finishes carved entirely by hand. Here, the royal blue center glows subtly in a mesmerizing fashion.

A rotating sky disk provides a charming accent, with hand-engraved gold and rhodium motifs sweeping around a 24-hour scale. Matching hands glide gracefully to indicate the time, with an infinity symbol at the tip of the hour hand in tribute to Kudoke's endless creativity. Through the sapphire caseback, the hand-wound Kaliber 1 movement reveals frosted plates and gilt surfaces, inspired by historical English pocket watches. The infinity sign, a signature of Kudoke is reflected here again.

From the polished case to engraved sky disk, each finish is executed by hand, upholding Kudoke's peerless quality. The Deep Blue is testament to imagination's boundless potential when applied to the dial canvas.

Lot 8108: Naoya Hida & Co. NH Type 3B In Stainless Steel, Circa 2023

Estimate: HKD $80,000 - 160,000

Lot 8108: Naoya Hida & Co. NH Type 3B In Stainless Steel, Circa 2023. Estimate: HKD $80,000 - 160,000

Launched in 2018, the young Japanese brand Naoya Hida & Co has shaken up the industry by storm already. With a deep appreciation for vintage timepieces, especially vintage pocket watches, Mr. Hida san strives to create the ideal watch with his vision, a vision of beauty and details. With that in mind, the first timepiece NH Type 1B was launched as a small batch of seven pieces only, marking his debut as an independent watch brand based in Tokyo.

One of the most respected independent brand now, Naoya Hida together with master watchmaker Kosuke Fujita and master engraver Keisuke Kano created the NH Type 3, the brand’s first model to incorporate the moon phase complication. With a brand new third generation case design, the 37mm diameter 904L stainless steel timepiece is designed with a screw-down caseback to enhance practicality of the timepiece, an also conveniently, it wears thinner on the wrist.

Made in German silver, the dial is skilfully engraved with elegant Roman numerals by Keisuke Kano. And of course, the star of the show is the whimsical moon phase that both smile and frowns in 18K yellow gold with a microbead blasted finish. Positioned at 6 o’clock underneath the pair of refined heat blued hands milled from a bar of steel, the moon phases is operated with an ingenious mechanism. Forget about setting pin, Naoya Hida has developed a life-changing feat, a moon phase that can be adjusted by the crown. Not only convenient, the winding click sounds extremely satisfying.

House inside this beautiful timepiece is the cal. 3021LU that’s derived from the Valjoux 7751. Beating at 4 Hz, the power reserve of this timepiece is up to 45 hours. With a production of only 10-15 pieces per year, one can imagine it is hard to obtain one. The present NH Type 3B numbered 004 is a refreshing piece of artisanal craftsmanship from Japan.

Lot 8056: Urban Jürgensen Ref. 1140 Limited Edition In Stainless Steel, Circa 2020

Estimate: HKD $95,000 - 160,000

Lot 8056: Urban Jürgensen Ref. 1140 Limited Edition In Stainless Steel, Circa 2020. Estimate: HKD $95,000 - 160,000

Founded in Copenhagen in 1773, Urban Jürgensen is Denmark’s oldest watch and clockmaker firm in continuous operation. The modern incarnation of Urban Jürgensen was established in the 1970s, producing wristwatches influenced by the elegant simplicity of mid-century Danish design. This aesthetic is fully articulated in the ref. 1140, a consummate example of the understated refinement that defines Urban Jürgensen.

Urban Jürgensen’s latest interpretation of the ref. 1140 is anchored in the model’s iconic design, while introducing a steel case and champagne dial. Previously offered only in precious metals with guilloché dials and Breguet numerals, the 40mm stainless steel case and pale gold plate dial represent the first deviations from tradition.

The dial maintains familiar elements like a hand-guilloché wave central zone, small seconds with basket weave motif, circular brushed chapter ring and domed solid gold Breguet numerals. Blued steel hands retain the signature diamond-polished eye, testament to the investment of craft evident throughout. Flawless in execution and captivating by design, the dial and hands coalesce with elegant ease.

For the collector who values discreet and cultured timepieces, this limited edition example offered in exceptional condition and consigned by the original owner represents the ethos of a venerable watchmaker.

Lot 8087: Vicenterra Astroluna T1 Aventurine Ref. 3000 Limited Edition In Titanium, Circa 2022

Estimate: HKD $40,000 - 120,000

Lot 8087: Vicenterra Astroluna T1 Aventurine Ref. 3000 Limited Edition In Titanium, Circa 2022. Estimate: HKD $40,000 - 120,000

Under the visionary direction of founder Vincent Plomb, independent Swiss luxury watchmaker Vicenterra navigates the cosmos from its home in the Jura Mountains. Renowned for astronomy-inspired timepieces, each creation charts a singular course through haute horlogerie's celestial spheres. The AstroLuna marks Vincent's latest imaginative creation, integrating the moon's perpetual phases alongside earth and sun in cosmic symmetry. The moon rotates precisely once in 29 days, 12 hours, 45 minutes—accurate for over a century.

Miniature artistry paints the moon's light and dark faces, the former glowing blue with luminescent SuperLuminova when darkness falls. Oceans swirl across the earth's meticulous globe, continents clouds above. The solid gold sun indicates noontime zones, while sapphires mark 6:00 AM and 6:00 PM in a glance. These precise astronomical functions stem from an exclusive module tailored for Vicenterra alone – the intricate Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier cal. 3000. Cased in a polished titanium case, whose glinting colors enhance the interplay of light, these complications couple poetry and precision.

Offered for the very first time at auction, Phillips is delighted to present this barely worn example numbered 99 of a limited edition of 99 pieces. The AstroLuna is certainly a source of pride and wonder brought spectacularly to life by artisans in the Jura Mountains.

Lot 8088: Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé Ref. ZW0103 Limited Edition In Stainless Steel, Circa 2022

Estimate: HKD $40,000 - 120,000

Lot 8088: Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé Ref. ZW0103 Limited Edition In Stainless Steel, Circa 2022. Estimate: HKD $40,000 - 120,000

Zeitwinkel is an independent watch manufacturer based in Sain-Lmier, Switzerland, started in 2006 by a group of watch enthusiast friends who dream of building high-quality, honest watches. The inspiration behind the brand name in German means ‘Time angle’ derived from a measure for calculating the ‘true local time’ for the brand to build watches as accurately as possible.

- The 273° Saphir Fumé was a combination of innovation of the dial and movement making in mind. Bringing in the focus on the present lot is the smoky sapphire crystal with a metalized galvanic coating that reveals the prelaged baseplate of the calibre ZW0103. Another noteworthy detail is that the minute markers are carved out with enamel varnished, bringing out another level of detailing from the manufacturer.

- Sized at 42mm in a stainless steel case, Zeitwinkel focus on constructing the case with high-polishing techniques and adding a satin-finished ribbon on the lugs to bring out the contrast. The watch wears comfortably on one wrist which is further complimented by the face of the smoky transparent dial. True to their motto, the watch is developed for the serious watch collectors in mind.

You can learn more, place a bid, and view the entire Hong Kong Sessions, Fall 2023, catalog here.


About Phillips In Association With Bacs & Russo

The team of specialists at PHILLIPS Watches is dedicated to an uncompromised approach to quality, transparency, and client service. Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo holds the world record for the most successful watch auction, with its Geneva Watch Auction: XIV having realized $74.5 million in 2021. Over the course of 2021 and 2022, the company sold 100% of the watches offered, a first in the industry, resulting in the highest annual total in history across all the auction houses at $227 million.

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About Logan Baker

Logan has spent the past decade reporting on every aspect of the watch business. He joined Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo at the start of 2023 as the department's Senior Editorial Manager. He splits his time between New York and Geneva.


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