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  • Manufacturer: Tudor
    Year: Circa 1960
    Reference No: 7928
    Case No: 325’728; inside caseback stamped 7928 II.60
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 390, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp dated 1-61, stamped Rolex U.S.A. C&I
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case and bracelet signed Rolex, movement and dial signed Tudor, movement additionally stamped ROW.
    Accessories: Rolex green pouch.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Sometimes a watch appears so miraculous, so serendipitously molded by the forces of time that it doesn’t matter what the name is on the dial, or the creator of the case, because the beauty of each element together is so resplendent and sublime it erases their meaning. Such is the case with this Tudor Submariner reference 7928 with a uniquely aged glossy, gilt dial.

    The first Tudor Submariner was the reference 7922, first produced in 1954, followed by the introduction of the reference 7928 beginning in 1959. The ref. 7928 introduced crown guards for Tudor’s Submariners, much as the ref. 5512 did for Rolex. Four generations of Tudor crown guard cases exist for the reference 7928: in order of appearance, Mark I or “square” crown guards, Mark II or “ Eagle Beak” crown guards, Mark III or “PCG” crown guards - as found on the present watch, and Mark IV or rounded crown guards. The dials feature a gilt chapter ring and gilt text printed in relief showing through the black gloss paint. Unlike the Rolex Submariners, which all feature straight lines of text, Tudor Submariners feature a curved line of text for “Self-Winding” which adds an element of charm to the dial, alongside the Tudor rose and Gothic typology. Fitted with a riveted Rolex C&I bracelet indicating manufacture in the United States, the watch correspondingly bears the ‘ROW’ designation stamped on the movement, indicating it was exported to the United States. The faded grey “Long 5” bezel insert is similarly correct for the watch, and the wide chamfers on the lugs indicate a watch that may have seen wear but not a polishing wheel.

    The deep “dulce de leche” hue of the dial, attractively and evenly spotted throughout like glimmering stars, is the main attraction of this wristwatch. Other similarly aged examples have been seen in the scholarship across reference 7928s of this era, but not many have surfaced with this level of balanced tropicalization, where all the further components of the watch are harmoniously correct and in peak condition.

  • Artist Biography

    Tudor

    Swiss • 1926

    Almost twenty years after Rolex was founded, Hans Wilsdorf established Tudor with the intention of making more affordable watches without compromising the quality for which Rolex was renowned. Tudor was named after the British Dynasty that ruled England from 1485 to 1603, and their symbol came from the "War of Roses." After interchanging Rose and Shield symbols for a number of years, the firm replaced the Rose with the Shield logo from the 1960s until today.

    Some of the most recognized vintage models made by Tudor include the Submariner, a waterproof model first introduced in 1954, the Oysterdate, the earliest versions of which were nicknamed the "Monte-Carlo," the Heritage, which included the date at 6 o'clock, as well as the Pelagos, which translates to "deep sea" in Greek.

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Ref. 7928
A stunning and extremely rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with lacquer gilt “tropical” dial, pointed crown guards, and bracelet

Circa 1960
39mm Diameter
Case and bracelet signed Rolex, movement and dial signed Tudor, movement additionally stamped ROW.

Estimate
$15,000 - 30,000 
CHF13,900-27,800
€13,300-26,600
HK$117,000-234,000

Sold for $69,300

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros

Head of Watches, Americas

+1 (212) 940-1293

[email protected]

 

The 2021 New York Watch Auction

New York Auction 11 - 12 December 2021