Rolex - The New York Watch Auction: XI New York Saturday, December 7, 2024 | Phillips
  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1995
    Reference No: 18238
    Movement No: 5’218’896
    Case No: W’170’174; inside caseback further stamped 18200
    Model Name: Day-Date
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Rolex President bracelet, endlinks stamped 53B, max overall length 220mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Rolex deployant clasp, reference 8385, stamped ‘O1’
    Dimensions: 36mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex punched guarantee paper dated September 1995, product literature, Rolex Day-Date pamphlet, leather folio, polishing cloth, wax hangtag, fitted presentation box, and outer box. Further accompanied by Rolex service pouch, presentation box and Rolex Service card.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Rolex’s Day-Date was the world’s first wristwatch to include the full name of the day at 12 o’clock and a date aperture at 3 o’clock. The semi-circular link bracelet, officially named “President,” is as iconic as the watch itself. The original references 6510 and 6511 were replaced by the famed reference 1803 in 1959 with a sporty 36mm diameter case, fluted bezel, and gold President bracelet, and offered in yellow, white, and rose gold, and platinum. In 1977, Rolex introduced a new generation model with the caliber 3055 with quickset date, which was upgraded again in 1988 with the caliber 3155, allowing quick set for both the date and day.

    Notably, the present example is fitted with an inky black onyx hardstone dial. Onyx, a form of chalcedony with deep banded layers, is a popular stone used in jewelry and watchmaking. Historically, Roman soldiers went into battle with onyx amulets for courage in battle, engraved with the visage of the god of war, Mars. The slice of onyx used for the dial of this Day-Date is utterly flawless, with attractive gilt printing. Presented as a “full set”, complete with its original box and punched guarantee, it’s a lovely example for the connoisseur.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 18238
A rare and highly attractive yellow gold wristwatch with day and date apertures, onyx hardstone dial, bracelet, guarantee, and presentation box

Circa 1995
36mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate
$20,000 - 40,000 
CHF17,600-35,200
€18,700-37,500
HK$155,000-311,000

Sold for $48,260

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
watchesny@phillips.com

Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: XI

New York Auction 7 - 8 December 2024