Rolex - The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT New York Saturday, June 10, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1993
    Reference No: 16520
    Movement No: 98'929
    Case No: S’838’992
    Model Name: Cosmograph Daytona “Darth Vader”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 4030, 31 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 78390, endlinks stamped 503B, max approximate overall length 220mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp, stamped T8
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex punched guarantee dated February 18th, 1995, chronometer certificate pamphlet, calendar card for 1994-1995, English and Italian product literature, leather wallet, wax seal, fitted wooden presentation box, and outer box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    First released in 1988, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference 16520 was the firm’s first Daytona model to feature a self-winding caliber. The reliable Zenith El Primero, considered as one of the best self-winding chronograph movements at the time, was chosen as the base which Rolex further upgraded to achieve their remarkable caliber 4030. Discontinued in 2000, it was replaced by the reference 116520 featuring Rolex’s first in-house self-winding chronograph movement. Fitted with the last out-sourced caliber - which also put some constraints on the production, as Zenith was only able to deliver so many movements per year - reference 16520 is today one of the most popular Daytona references, combining a modern 40mm case with vintage charm and eternal practicality.

    The tropical dial variants are without a doubt some of the most attractive and sought-after by collectors. In fact, it can be considered one of the most visually striking dial variations found on the model, merging the rarity and intellectual appeal of a rare dial with the unbridled aesthetic appeal granted by the darkened counters. It appears that such a peculiarity can only be found on examples bearing a S,N,T and W serials, and only on some examples from these series.

    As the darkening of the subdial rings stems from a natural oxidation process, the result varies enormously from watch to watch both in texture and in color, ranging from a light shade of tan in some cases, to near pitch-black in other. Arguably, the present watch represents one of the most appealing examples of tropical dial 16520 to grace an auction room. It features a perfectly even dark mocha hue, granting the watch the infamous name of “Darth Vader”. The dark brown aging is so complementary to the black dial color, one might think they are looking at the original Rolex design.

    Its incredible, “new old stock” condition matches, if not surpasses, that of the dial, making it amongst the best-preserved examples appearing publicly. Never worn, and still retaining plastic protection ring and its perfectly intact, factory green caseback sticker, it could be used to scholarly study how a 16520 case and bracelet appeared when originally delivered by Rolex. It is further enhanced by being a complete set, with original boxes, and punched guarantee papers.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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21

Ref. 16520
A "new old stock", supremely attractive, and highly coveted stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with dark brown "tropical" subdials, bracelet, punched guarantee papers, and presentation boxes

Circa 1993
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and bracelet signed.

Estimate
$50,000 - 100,000 
CHF45,000-90,000
€46,200-92,400
HK$391,000-782,000
S$67,200-134,000

Sold for $76,200

Contact Specialist

Paul Boutros
Head of Watches, Americas
+1 (212) 940-1293
WatchesNY@Phillips.com
 
Isabella Proia
Head of Sale, New York
+1 (212) 940 1285
iproia@phillips.com

The New York Watch Auction: EIGHT

New York Auction 10 - 11 June 2023