A fine and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with date, sweep center seconds and bracelet, retailed by Tiffany & Co.

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1984
    Reference No: 16800
    Movement No: 2’029’881
    Case No: 8’478’908
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 335, 27 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped 93150, endlinks stamped 501 B, max length 170mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “R 3”
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Further accompanied by Rolex service invoice dated 13th December 2016

  • Catalogue Essay

    Rolex have always been known for perfecting the smaller and intricate details of the watch to enhance its performance. The transition of the famed ref. 1680 to ref. 16800 saw minimal aesthetic upgrades but instead upgrades on components such as the transition from plexiglass to sapphire crystal and the addition of a quick-set date feature. Although many would think that these upgrades did not seem like much, the upgrade of the new crystal also came with a benefit that the waterproof capabilities were further enhanced to 300 meters in depth and the quick-set date feature allows the wearer to set the date via the crown, which made it immensely more practical and convenient for the wearer. The early examples of the ref. 16800 still maintained the traditional matte dial with the luminous plots applied directly onto the dial. The later versions were fitted with a glossy black dial with the luminous material sitting inside a metal outline.

    Tiffany & Co has enjoyed a long history of partnerships with manufacturers such as Rolex and Patek Philippe. With its signature doubly signed on the dial, the initial idea was to benefit the brand reputation for both Tiffany & Co and its partnership. As Tiffany & Co signed watches were only available for purchase in their New York boutique, it made the watches retailed by them highly sought after and even commanding a premium for most pieces.

    The present early and rare example is a beautiful stainless steel Rolex Submariner ref. 16800 retailed by Tiffany & Co and further presented in excellent overall condition.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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1112

Rolex

Ref. 16800
A fine and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with date, sweep center seconds and bracelet, retailed by Tiffany & Co.

勞力士,「Submariner」型號16800,精鋼自動上弦鏈帶腕錶,配中心秒針、日期顯示,由蒂芙尼銷售,約1984年製。附保養單據

Circa 1984
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$120,000 - 200,000 
€13,800-23,000
$15,400-25,600

sold for HK$275,000

Contact Specialist
Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
thomasperazzi@phillips.com
+852 2318 2030

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: NINE

Hong Kong Auction 25-26 November 2019