Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII Hong Kong Friday, May 24, 2024 | Phillips

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  • Condition Report

  • Description

    View our Conditions of Sale.

  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1981
    Reference No: 16800, repeated inside caseback
    Movement No: 1’107’318
    Case No: 6’530’777
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “93150”, endlinks stamped “501 B”, max length 185mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp stamped “H” and “93150”
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    The reference 16800 is an important model following the success of the reference 1680 in the Submariner Date collection. Introduced in 1979, it stands out as the first Submariner to feature a sapphire crystal, marking a technical advancement for Rolex. The water resistance of the Submariner also saw a notable improvement, increasing from a depth rating of 200 meters to 300 meters.

    Considered a transitional model, the reference 16800 finally introduced a ratcheted, unidirectional rotating bezel at its launch. Prior to this, Submariners had bezels that could be turned in either direction where the introduction of the unidirectional bezel added an extra safety feature for professional divers. The earlier versions of the 16800, including the present watch, were equipped with vintage-looking matte dials whilst later versions featured glossy dials with white gold markers.

    The present watch has been well-preserved and possesses a pleasing vintage appeal as the luminous plots on the dial have aged evenly, developing an attractive warm buttery hue over time.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

    View More Works

1060

Ref. 16800, repeated inside caseback
A well-preserved and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with date, center seconds, matte dial and bracelet

Circa 1981
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$80,000 - 120,000 
€9,600-14,400
$10,300-15,400

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031
WatchesHK@phillips.com
 

Gertrude Wong
Head of Sale, Hong Kong
+ 852 2318 2045
gertrudewong@phillips.com
 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII

Hong Kong Auction 24 - 25 May 2024