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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1973
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D417’922
    Case No: 3’303’859, inside caseback repeated 1680
    Model Name: Submariner, “Red Sub, Mk IV”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “93150”, endlinks stamped “580”, max length 195mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “AB5”
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex fitted presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Since the dawn of the partnership between Rolex and the renowned New York jeweller, Tiffany & Co. from the late 1950s, the beloved jeweller has proudly emblazoned its logo on a variety of crown jewels of the firm, ranging from the GMT-Master to the Cosmograph Daytona, and with no exception the Submariner like the present specimen. Hitting the Rolex catalogue as the first Submariner with the inclusion of a date function, the ref. 1680 was launched in the late 1960s and remained in production until the late 1970s. The present watch not only displays the Submariner script in red, a trait only found on early production named as the “Red Sub”, but also bears the signature of the storied retailer at 6 o'clock further heightens its appeal and collectibility.

    Characterized by the open 6s in the feet first depth rating with a thick application of red print over white graphics, the present example belongs to the MK IV dial amongst the “Red Sub” series. Furthermore, the lume plots have also aged into an attractive ivory hue over the years that contributes to the charming personality of this rare double-signed Submariner.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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903

Ref. 1680
A rare and attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, Mk IV dial, bracelet and presentation box, retailed by Tiffany & Co.

Circa 1973
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$120,000 - 200,000 
€13,300-22,100
$15,400-25,600

Sold for HK$403,200

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031
[email protected]

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII

Hong Kong Auctions 25-26 November 2021