Rolex - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII Hong Kong Thursday, November 25, 2021 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1974
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D674’870
    Case No: 3’854’070, inside caseback repeated “1680”
    Model Name: Submariner “Red Sub”, Mk V
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “93150”, endlinks stamped "580", max length 190mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster deployant clasp stamped “VD”
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex service invoice, instruction booklet, product literature, leather holder, anchor, tin box, fitted presentation box and outer packaging.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Debuted in 1967, the reference 1680 was the first Submariner to be fitted with a date function. Early dial variations of the reference displays a ‘meters first’ depth rating and the single line of red ‘Submariner’ script, hence the name “Red Sub”. Highly sought-after, these rare diver’s watch with a dash of red marks an important milestone for this utilitarian tool watch and are beloved details by vintage Rolex collectors.

    The present example falls into the Mark V dial bearing a 3.8 million serial, distinctive from the feet first orientation of the depth rating. The red “Submariner” script is printed directly on the dial on the surface without a white base layer and features open 6’s on the depth rating while the horizontal stroke of “ft” aligns on the same level. Offered in an attractive condition and aged beautifully with an ivory colored lumes and a nicely preserved rich bezel, the present ref. 1680 with a wink of red express a unique vintage look that attracts the eye of vintage Submariner collectors.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1680
A fine and rare stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, Mk V dial, bracelet and presentation box

Circa 1974
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

HK$120,000 - 200,000 

Sold for HK$277,200

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII

Hong Kong Auctions 25-26 November 2021