A fine and attractive yellow gold diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date and additional bracelet

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  • Condition Report

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1978
    Reference No: 1680, repeated inside caseback
    Movement No: D822’670
    Case No: 5’728’582
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Crocodile
    Clasp/Buckle: Gold plated pin buckle
    Dimensions: 40mm diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed
    Accessories: Further accompanied by additional 18K yellow gold riveted Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped “57” with Rolex Oyster deployant clasp.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Marking the beginning of a new era, Rolex introduced the ref. 1680 in 1966, the first Submariner reference to feature a Cyclopes date function. Initially launched in stainless steel, the early examples featured the desired red “Submariner” dial and it was not until a few years later that Rolex introduced its gold counterpart. Another milestone yet, the ref. 1680 in yellow gold was also Rolex’s first Submariner to be encased in gold to cater towards the demand for luxury followed with professional capabilities.

    Adding a hint of flare and flamboyance to the famed professional diver’s wristwatch, gold examples were offered with two options, a matte black dial with a black bezel insert or a metallic blue dial with a blue bezel insert.

    The present example is presented with a well-preserved matte black dial with a black bezel insert with signs of fade adding a tremendous vintage appeal. Presented in attractive overall condition the hallmarks stamped to the back of the lugs are crisp, intact and unrubbed.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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From an Important South Korean collector

Rolex

Ref. 1680, repeated inside caseback
A fine and attractive yellow gold diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date and additional bracelet

勞力士,「Submariner」型號1680,精細,18K黃金自動上弦腕錶,備中心秒針、日期顯示,約1978年製。附備用勞力士黃金鏈帶 來源:南韓重要私人收藏

Circa 1978
40mm diameter
Case, dial, movement, bracelet and clasp signed

Estimate
HK$235,000 - 390,000 
€26,900-44,700
$30,100-50,000

sold for HK$300,000

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi

Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2031

WatchesHK@phillips.com

 

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X

Hong Kong Auction 10 July 2020