A fine and very rare yellow gold wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, date and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1974
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D293834
    Case No: 3'566'312
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: 18k yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18k yellow gold Rolex Oyster bracelet, 165 mm. maximum length
    Clasp/Buckle: 18k yellow gold Rolex folding twinlock deployant clasp stamped 3.72
    Dimensions: 39 mm. diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
    Literature: For another example of a reference 1680 with Khanjar dial also from 1974, please see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, page 188.

  • Catalogue Essay

    This watch is an exceedingly rare variant within the Submariner family. Cased in yellow gold, this watch is fitted with a 'Khanjar' dial, which is part of the national emblem of Oman. The Khanjar is printed in red, and when contrasted against the black background, gives the dial a stunning and three-dimensional look.

    The placement of the Khanjar logo is particularly interesting. On most watches fitted with a 'Khanjar' dial, the logo is usually featured at 6 o'clock or 12 o'clock. However, the logo on this watch is printed to the left of the hands, making this example very unusual and incredibly rare.

    The watch is also fitted with the popular 'nipple' dial, with tritium raised markers which have aged to an ivory color and match the hands on the watch. This watch still carries its full proportions, and examples such as this hardly ever come to the market.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Rolex

Ref. 1680
A fine and very rare yellow gold wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, date and bracelet, made for the Sultanate of Oman

勞力士,精細及非常罕有,18K黃金自動上弦鏈帶腕錶,配中心秒針及日曆顯示,“Submariner”,型號1680,1974年製

1974
39 mm. diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
HK$300,000 - 500,000 

sold for HK$500,000

Contact Specialist
Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2030
thomasperazzi@phillips.com

Ziyong Ho
Specialist
+852 9386 2032
ziyongho@phillips.com

Jill Chen
Specialist
+852 2318 2033
jillchen@phillips.com

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: Two

Hong Kong Auction 31 May 2016