A rare stainless steel wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, date and bracelet

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1971
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D580600
    Case No: 2'503'853
    Model Name: Red Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, 200 mm. maximum length, bracelet stamped 9315
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex folding twinlock deployant clasp stamped 1.71
    Dimensions: 39 mm. diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
    Literature: For another example of a red Submariner reference, please see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, page 188.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Early examples of reference 1680 were fitted with a red Submariner signature, leading collectors to dub these models the 'Red Submariner'. The 'Red Submariner' has become increasingly collectible due to its rarity on the market.

    The present example is fitted with a Mark 4 dial, as it displays 'feet first' as opposed to 'meters first'. The 6 is very 'open' and the 'Submariner' signature is more pronounced. All these attributes are correct for the serial number. The tritium has aged to a beautiful ivory color, which furthermore matches the 'pearl' on the bezel, enhancing the overall look of the watch. The watch is furthermore accompanied with a bracelet, stamped for the first quarter of 1971, which is original to the watch.

    This is a wonderful and charismatic example of a rare variant within the Submariner family.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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289

Rolex

Ref. 1680
A rare stainless steel wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, date and bracelet

勞力士,罕有,不銹鋼自動上弦鏈帶腕錶,配中心秒針及日曆顯示,“Submariner”,型號1680,1971年製

1971
39 mm. diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
HK$64,000 - 96,000 

sold for HK$75,000

Contact Specialist
Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2030
thomasperazzi@phillips.com

Ziyong Ho
Specialist
+852 9386 2032
ziyongho@phillips.com

Jill Chen
Specialist
+852 2318 2033
jillchen@phillips.com

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: Two

Hong Kong Auction 31 May 2016