A fine and rare stainless steel wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, date, 'tropical' dial and bracelet

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1970
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D416391
    Case No: 2'215'321
    Model Name: Red Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, 185 mm. maximum length, end link stamped 380
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex twinlock deployant folding clasp
    Dimensions: 39 mm. diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
    Literature: For another example of a reference 1680 Red Submariner meters first, please see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, page 188.

  • Catalogue Essay

    This early Red Submariner with meters first dial is from the second version of these early Red Submariners. The red printing is applied over the original white 'Submariner' with open '6's and thin long 'f' (ft). The case back is stamped 1.69 indicating manufacture in the first part of 1969. Like with other early known meter first dials, the finish of the matte black has begun to turn brown with aging. These early meters first dials are very rare and can only be found in the very early year of production. Rolex switched the depth rating to feet first only a year or so later. The present watch is a very good looking example where the aging to the lumes and hands is consistent and the bezel insert too has faded to a nice brown colour.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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276

Rolex

Ref. 1680
A fine and rare stainless steel wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, date, 'tropical' dial and bracelet

勞力士,精細及罕有,不銹鋼自動上弦腕鏈帶腕錶,配中心秒針、日曆顯示及棕色錶盤,“Red Submariner”,型號1680,1970年製

1970
39 mm. diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
HK$96,000 - 144,000 

sold for HK$137,500

Contact Specialist
Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2030
thomasperazzi@phillips.com

Ziyong Ho
Specialist
+852 9386 2032
ziyongho@phillips.com

Jill Chen
Specialist
+852 2318 2033
jillchen@phillips.com

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: Two

Hong Kong Auction 31 May 2016