A fine and very rare stainless steel wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, black lacquer dial and bracelet, retailed by Tiffany & Co.

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1967
    Reference No: 5512
    Movement No: 89'413
    Case No: 1'631'471
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, 185 mm. maximum length
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex folding deployant clasp stamped Rolex USA 1.70
    Dimensions: 39.5 mm. diameter
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
    Literature: For another example of a reference 5512 however without a Tiffany & Co. signature, please see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, page 186.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Launched around 1959, reference 5512 was the first Rolex Submariner to be fitted with crown guards. As opposed to reference 5513, reference 5512 used a chronometer rated movement, which at the time was considered more valuable and attractive.

    This watch is fitted with a black lacquer dial with gilt graphics, and is signed by the prestigious retailer, Tiffany & Co. Our research suggests that this example was among the later examples to be fitted with a black lacquer dial, due to the 'Bart Simpson' coronet, rounded crown guards, chronometer movement, and Swiss-T<25 dial.

    While it is more common to find later Submariners with the Tiffany & Co. signature, it is incredibly rare to find examples of reference 5512 that are signed and correct. To date, only a handful of such examples have appeared at auction, highlighting the collectability of this watch.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Rolex

Ref. 5512
A fine and very rare stainless steel wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, black lacquer dial and bracelet, retailed by Tiffany & Co.

勞力士,精細及非常罕有,不銹鋼自動上弦鏈帶腕錶,配中心秒針、黑色漆錶盤,“Submariner”,型號5512,由蒂芙尼銷售,1967年製

1967
39.5 mm. diameter
Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
HK$120,000 - 180,000 

sold for HK$212,500

Contact Specialist
Thomas Perazzi
Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2030
thomasperazzi@phillips.com

Ziyong Ho
Specialist
+852 9386 2032
ziyongho@phillips.com

Jill Chen
Specialist
+852 2318 2033
jillchen@phillips.com

The Hong Kong Watch Auction: Two

Hong Kong Auction 31 May 2016