Rolex - Geneva Watch Auction: TWO Geneva Saturday, November 7, 2015 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1971
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D167'170
    Case No: 2'817'943
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: 18k yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18k yellow gold Rolex Oyster, stamped 3.70, max length 205mm.
    Clasp/Buckle: Twin lock folding clasp, with diver extension stamped "PAT.PEND."
    Dimensions: 39mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 was the beginning of an era, as it was the first of the Submariner family to include the date, and the first of Rolex's diving watches to be encased in yellow gold. Earlier models with the diver’s extension on the bracelet were stamped “PAT. PEND”, as found on this example.

    The present example in yellow gold features a so-called “ghost” bezel and "tropical" cognac-colored dial. This terminology often used by collectors refers to the color of a material that over time morphed into a different color than it originally intended to be. This watch features a brown dial that was once blue with applied yellow gold luminous hour markers and gilt writing. The “ghost” bezel that is currently a light shade of grey was in fact once also blue.

    Not often seen in yellow gold, this watch was well preserved by the owner and remains in excellent overall condition. The beautiful way in which this watch aged is sure to amaze all vintage Rolex collectors alike.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1680
A rare and very attractive yellow gold wristwatch with date, "cognac" colored dial and bracelet

39mm. Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF25,000 - 40,000 

Sold for CHF37,500

Contact Specialist
Nathalie Monbaron
+41 22 317 81 83

Geneva Watch Auction: TWO

Geneva Auction 7 & 8 November 2015 6:30pm