A very rare stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date, MKII "Single Red" dial, bracelet, guarantee and box

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  • Condition Report

  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1969
    Reference No: 1680
    Movement No: D503976
    Case No: 2'292'808, retailer no.: 140'456
    Model Name: Submariner "Single Red"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet stamped "501 B" and "93150" to the endlinks, max length 195mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex extandable deployant clasp stamped "S4" and "93150"
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed, bottom of the lug engraved with Ricciardi numbers
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex Spanish Guarantee booklet stamped by Argentinian retailer Joyeria Ricciardi SA and dated April 22, 1974 and Rolex and Ricciardi fitted presentation box

  • Catalogue Essay

    The term “iconic” is often overused in watchmaking, but this might possibly be the exception that proves the rule. A true staple of Rolex production, worn by some of the best known public figures - both real and fictional - of the past and present centuries, and immediately recognized as a Rolex also by individuals not even remotely interested in watch collecting, the Submariner has truly and undisputedly acquired the status of “icon” for Rolex and for watchmaking at large.

    The present Ricciardi retailed example can be considered one of the most appealing Submariner specimens currently on the market. In excellent condition, it furthermore bears the immediately recognizable “Red Sub” dial (an aesthetic variation currently rediscovered by the brand, and employed on their Sea-Dweller line). It is a Mark II dial, distinguished by the meter first designation (only found on Mark I through Mark III dials), thin long font, and open 6s. This configuration is found on watches bearing serial numbers between circa 2.2 and 2.45: a very short time, which explains why it appears that out of all the 1680 made, only about 6% bear Mark II or Mark III dials (made at the same time).

    A final layer of appeal is given by the Ricciardi signed Rolex box and the Ricciardi stamped Guarantee - obviously in Spanish.

  • Maker Bio

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Rolex

Ref. 1680
A very rare stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date, MKII "Single Red" dial, bracelet, guarantee and box

Circa 1969
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed, bottom of the lug engraved with Ricciardi numbers

Estimate
CHF40,000 - 80,000 
€36,800-73,700
$40,300-80,600

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist
Virginie Liatard-Roessli
Specialist, Head of Sale
+41 76 338 91 03
vliatard@phillips.com

Double Signed: A Celebration of the Finest Partnerships Between Manufacturers and Retailers

Geneva Auction 9 November 2019