Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: SIX Geneva Friday, November 10, 2017 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1987
    Reference No: 16800
    Movement No: 1'642'487
    Case No: 9'634'794
    Model Name: Submariner
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet, reference 93150, end links stamped 593, max length 235mm.
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex twinlock folding deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 40mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Rolex is known for constantly bettering the functionalities of its watches. Towards the end of the 1970s, Rolex started updating their watches that feature a date function. They designed a quick date change through the crown and the present reference was the first Submariner to be fitted with this quick date feature. Furthermore, the reference 16800 is noteworthy for being the first Submariner to be fitted with a sapphire crystal. Requiring a redesigned bezel, the enhancements significantly increased the Submariner’s water resistance, rising from a depth rating of 200 meters to 300.

    Considered a transitional model, the earliest versions of the 16800, like the present lot, were fitted with matte dials with luminous markers directly applied to the dial, whereas later versions were fitted with glossy dials with luminous, white gold markers.

    The present example in excellent condition specially stands out thanks to its immaculate dial with markers that have aged to a warm ivory color.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 16800
A fine and attractive stainless steel wristwatch with centre seconds, date and bracelet

Circa 1987
40mm. Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF4,000 - 6,000 

Sold for CHF6,875

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
+41 22 317 81 89

The Geneva Watch Auction: SIX

Geneva Auctions 11 - 12 November 2017