Rolex - The Watch Auction: One Geneva Saturday, May 9, 2015 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1968
    Reference No: 1680
    Case No: 2'292'644,
    Model Name: Submariner, "Red Submariner"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, 1570
    Bracelet/Strap: Rolex Oyster folding link
    Clasp/Buckle: Twin lock folding deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed, case back stamped III.69
    Literature: For another example of a tropical dial "Red Submariner" ref. 1680, please see 100 Superlative Rolex Watches by John Goldberger, page 188.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Produced beginning in 1966, the reference 1680 was the first Rolex Submariner model to include a date. For the first twelve years of production, the 1680 featured the word “Submariner” in red, earning them these watches the name “Red Submariner”. The earliest of these had a depth rating with the meters positioned first, followed by the feet rating. This early example, with a meters first depth rating, features a ‘tropical’ dial that has aged to a beautiful and uniform shade of chocolate brown. The luminous hour markers, perfectly matching its luminous hands and bezel pearl, have similarly aged to a pleasing light beige color. Combined with the well-preserved case, it’s a superb example of this highly desirable and collectible reference.

  • Artist Biography


    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 1680
A fine, rare and attractive stainless steel calendar wristwatch, with bracelet and tropical brown dial

39mm. Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed, case back stamped III.69

CHF10,000 - 15,000 

Sold for CHF37,500

Contact Specialist
Nathalie Monbaron
+41 22 317 81 83

The Watch Auction: One

Geneva Auction 10 May 2015 6:30pm