Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: XV Geneva Saturday, May 7, 2022 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: Circa 1975
    Reference No: 1665 inside caseback stamped with repeated serial number 4'205'323
    Movement No: D129931
    Case No: 4'205'323
    Model Name: Sea-Dweller “Double Red, MK IV”
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster bracelet “93150”, endlinks stamped “585”, max length 180mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Rolex deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 40mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Conceived as a watch for professional divers, the Sea-Dweller was launched in 1967. At the time of production, it was among the most reliable and robust diver's watches on the market. Water resistant to 610 meters, its capabilities exceeded that of the Submariner.

    The watch featured a triple lock crown to ensure its water resistant ability. The very first examples, or "prototypes" displayed a single red Sea-Dweller script. It was only later, starting with the " Mk I Patent Pending Sea-Dweller Double Red" that the dial displayed "Sea Dweller Submariner 2000" in two red lines, earning its moniker "Double Red Sea-Dweller".

    While the very first examples did not have a helium escape valve, Rolex eventually fitted their Sea-Dwellers with this mechanism, which allowed the trapped helium to easily escape. When reference 1665 was first released, Rolex had not patented the technology yet. Thus, the earliest Sea- Dwellers were engraved “Patent Pending Rolex Oyster Gas Escape Valve” on the caseback.

    Among the very last examples produced, the present watch is fitted with a Mk IV dial, evidenced by the "closed 6" and the spiked coronet. This dial variation was among the very last, and used until Rolex ceased production of reference 1665.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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230

Ref. 1665 inside caseback stamped with repeated serial number 4'205'323
An attractive and well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch with gas escape value, date, “double red” Mk IV dial and bracelet

Circa 1975
40mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF15,000 - 25,000 
€14,700-24,600
$15,900-26,500

Sold for CHF50,400

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 22 317 81 81
AGhotbi@phillips.com

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 22 317 96 63
TiffanyTo@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: XV

Geneva Auction 7 - 8 May 2022