Rolex - The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE Geneva Friday, May 12, 2017 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Rolex
    Year: 1990
    Reference No: 18248, stamped 18200 inside case back
    Movement No: 5'554'300
    Case No: E207'521
    Model Name: Day-Date
    Material: 18k yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3155, 31 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18k yellow gold Rolex President with bark finished centre links, 200mm max length
    Clasp/Buckle: Concealed deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 36mm. Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Rolex fitted box, original Rolex punched guarantee and hangtag.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Rolex Day-Date potently mixes flair, creativity and charisma and is considered to be one of the most universally recognized and beloved watches.

    This elegant reference 18248 from 1990 is adorned with a very original and unusual ferrite dial. Ferrite is a ceramic alloy with a surprising reflection, not dissimilar to meteorite, giving the dial a superbly graphic appearance.

    The “bark” finished bezel includes rectangular hour markers that line up perfectly with the applied Roman numerals on the dial. To balance the bezel, the Rolex President bracelet features bark-finished centre links, adding to its appeal.

    The present example is fitted with Rolex’s calibre 3155, which features a double quickset function allowing for rapid adjustment of both the day and date. It remains well preserved after close to 30 years, making it a fine addition for any collector.

  • Artist Biography

    Rolex

    Swiss • 1905

    Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

    One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.

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Ref. 18248, stamped 18200 inside case back
A rare yellow gold calendar wristwatch with centre seconds, bracelet, ferrite dial and original punched guarantee

1990
36mm. Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF9,000 - 12,000 
€8,300-11,100
$8,900-11,900

Sold for CHF16,250

Contact Specialist
Alexandre Ghotbi
+41 22 317 81 89

The Geneva Watch Auction: FIVE

Geneva Auctions 13 – 14 May 2017