







8021
Rolex
Ref. 1680
Submariner, “Meter First Red Sub” MK II
A very attractive stainless steel diver’s wristwatch with center seconds, date, MK II “tropical” dial and bracelet
Full-Cataloguing
- Launched around 1967, the reference 1680 was the first Submariner model to feature a date function. Early examples, such as the present one, display a “meters first” depth rating and include the 'Submariner' script printed in red, earning it the nickname "Red Sub", while later iterations showcase white graphics.
- Red Subs are highly sought-after today due to their distinctive aesthetics and historical significance as the inaugural Submariner models with a date feature. Within the Red Submariner family, there are notable evolutionary changes in the graphics, exhibiting six variations. The present early example features a Mark II dial, recognizable by the meters-first arrangement of the depth rating, a characteristic shared with Mark I to Mark III dials. Mark II dials are further defined by a longer “F” in “ft” compared to Mark III and a thinner font for the depth rating. These dials can be found on examples with serial numbers approximately between 2.15M and 2.45M, as both Mark II and Mark III dials were produced concurrently.
- What makes the present "Red Sub" even more collectible and appealing is its dark chocolate dial where the slight tropical hue is evenly aged across the entire surface.
Rolex
Swiss | 1905Founded in 1905 England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, it soon became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving its headquarters to Geneva in 1919. Like no other company, the success of the wristwatch can be attributed to many of Rolex's innovations that made them one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These innovations include their famous "Oyster" case — the world's first water resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and their "Perpetual" — the first reliable self-winding movement for wristwatches launched in 1933. They would form the foundation for Rolex's Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956, but also importantly for their sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.
One of its most famous models is the Cosmograph Daytona. Launched in 1963, these chronographs are without any doubt amongst the most iconic and coveted of all collectible wristwatches. Other key collectible models include their most complicated vintage watches, including references 8171 and 6062 with triple calendar and moon phase, "Jean Claude Killy" triple date chronograph models and the Submariner, including early "big-crown" models and military-issued variants.