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“What is strong about Peter’s work is the humanity inherent in his photographs. What you notice is not just the models and the clothes, but the strength of the people themselves.”
—Rei Kawakubo, Comme des GarçonsPeter Lindbergh (1944-2019) is celebrated for his seemingly effortlessness and simplified aesthetic that radically changed the way in which fashion was presented on the printed page. In the supermodel boom of the 1980s and 90s, Lindbergh eschewed the heavy styling and excessive visual opulence that typified the era. Instead, his subjects were consistently depicted with minimal makeup and modest hairstyles, conveying looseness, confidence and a joyful naturalness. The artist’s humanist approach to fashion photography results in emotive portraits rendered in his preferred language of black and white: ‘Although humans see reality in colour, for me, black and white has always been connected to the image’s deeper truth, to its most hidden meaning.’
Showcased as the lead image in the special feature ‘A Star Is Born’ in the December 1994 issue of Harper’s Bazaar, Lindbergh’s Moss as seen here is candid and relaxed with a strap of her pinafore dress loosely hanging off her arm. This enduring portrait perfectly encapsulates the accompanying description of Moss at this point in her career:
On these pages is a modern fairy tale retold for Christmas. It's about hard work, big breaks, transformation scenes, a love interest – and how the girl next door became a world-class cover girl. Welcome Kate Moss, starring in a fictionalized version of the story of her own life...
Why Kate? Because something in her face beams directly into the collective unconscious. You think you must know her from somewhere. You can imagine talking to her. She's gorgeous, but shrugs it off. She doesn't get done up...
The way she looks in a picture merges invisibly with the way she lives her life. She's the real, the true, the unbelievable, believable Kate.
Harper’s Bazaar, December 1994, pp. 140-141. The similitude between this arresting portrait of Moss and Paul Strand’s Young Boy, Gondeville, Charente, France, taken in 1951, was unintentional yet noticed immediately by Lindbergh: ‘At first, behind her, there was a wallpaper with flowers, and I had it removed, I didn’t like it. And I thought, “Oh, my God, that reminds me of someone, but who does it remind me of?” The young man immortalised by Paul Strand in Gondeville, Charente, in 1951.’ This connection is not surprising given Lindbergh’s admiration for mid-century photojournalism and social documentary photography. Moreover, it heightens Lindbergh’s masterful ability to further convey the authenticity of his subject as visible in the larger-than-life scale of the present lot.
Paul Strand, Young Boy, Gondeville, Charente, France, 1951. Provenance
A. Galerie, Paris, circa 2012
Literature
'A Star is Born', Harper's Bazaar, December 1994, p. 140
Peter Lindbergh: Images of Women, Munich: Schirmer/Mosel, 1997, p. 13
The Model as Muse: Embodying Fashion, New Haven: Yale U., 2009, back cover & p. 190
PROPERTY FROM A PRIVATE FRENCH COLLECTION
9
Kate Moss, Harper's Bazaar USA, Long Island, New York
1994
Gelatin silver print, mounted.
Image: 148.5 x 118 cm (58 1/2 x 46 1/2 in.)
Frame: 184 x 153.5 cm (72 1/2 x 60 3/8 in.)
Signed in ink, printed title, date and number 1/3 on a Certificate of Authenticity affixed to the reverse of the frame.
This work is number 1 from the sold-out edition of 3 with one artist's proof held in the Peter Lindbergh Foundation.
Estimate
£70,000 - 90,000 ‡♠
Sold for £139,700
Rachel Peart
Head of Department, London
RPeart@phillips.com
Yuka Yamaji
Head of Photographs, Europe
YYamaji@phillips.com
General Enquiries
+44 20 7318 4092
Photographs
London Auction 19 May 2023
1
Ruud van Empel
Identity #1
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000 ♠
Sold for £10,160
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2
Gregory Crewdson
Untitled
Estimate £20,000 - 30,000 ‡
Sold for £27,940
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3
Gregory Crewdson
Untitled
Estimate £12,000 - 18,000 ‡
Sold for £33,020
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4
Sally Mann
Untitled from Antietam
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000
Sold for £22,860
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5
Hiroshi Sugimoto
Gulf of Bothnia, Hornslandet
Estimate £18,000 - 22,000
Sold for £27,940
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6
Ori Gersht
Virtual E01 from On Reflection
Estimate £20,000 - 30,000 ♠
Sold for £19,050
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7
Helmut Newton
Rue Aubriot, Paris
Estimate £20,000 - 30,000
Sold for £33,020
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8
Helmut Newton
Big Nude: Yuko, Camilla, Raquel, Una and Verina
Estimate £40,000 - 60,000 ‡
Sold for £57,150
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9
Peter Lindbergh
Kate Moss, Harper's Bazaar USA, Long Island, New York
Estimate £70,000 - 90,000 ‡♠
Sold for £139,700
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10
Zanele Muholi
Sindile II, Room 206 Fjord Hotel, Berlin from Somnyama Ngonyama
Estimate £18,000 - 22,000 ‡
Sold for £30,480
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11
Tania Franco Klein
Toaster, (Self-portrait) from Our Life in the Shadows
Estimate £15,000 - 25,000 ‡
Sold for £19,050
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12
JeeYoung Lee
Resurrection from Stage of Mind
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000 ‡
Sold for £22,860
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13
Rala Choi
A woman lying on the sofa
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000
Sold for £27,940
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14
Byung-Hun Min
MG247
Estimate £12,000 - 18,000 ‡
Sold for £15,240
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15
Maria Svarbova
Grössling City Bath
Estimate £12,000 - 18,000 ‡
Sold for £38,100
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16
Amanda Means
Light Bulb (008BYs)
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000 ‡
Sold for £38,100
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17
Reine Paradis
L’Envol from Jungle
Estimate £12,000 - 18,000 ‡
Sold for £10,160
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18
Jung Lee
Heart
Estimate £15,000 - 25,000 ‡
Sold for £35,560
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19
Markus Brunetti
Paris, Cathédrale Notre-Dame from FACADES
Estimate £25,000 - 35,000 ‡♠
Sold for £48,260
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20
Jungjin Lee
Wind 04-54
Estimate £25,000 - 35,000 ‡
Sold for £27,940
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21
This lot is no longer available.
22
Diane Arbus
A widow in her bedroom, N.Y.C.
Estimate £25,000 - 35,000 ‡
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23
Diane Arbus
Elizabeth Taylor look-alike reclining on a bed, London, England
Estimate £20,000 - 30,000 ‡
Sold for £24,130
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24
Diane Arbus
Puerto Rican woman with a beauty mark, N.Y.C.
Estimate £8,000 - 12,000 ‡
Sold for £8,890
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25
Diane Arbus
A woman passing on the street, N.Y.C.
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000 ‡
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26
Diane Arbus
Woman with eyeliner, N.Y.C.
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000 ‡
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27
Peter Hujar
Susan Sontag
Estimate £12,000 - 18,000 ‡
Sold for £27,940
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28
Weegee
Coney Island
Estimate £18,000 - 22,000
Sold for £24,130
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29
William Klein
Atom Bomb Sky, New York
Estimate £15,000 - 25,000 ‡♠
Sold for £15,240
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30
Robert Adams
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Estimate £12,000 - 18,000 ‡
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31
William Eggleston
Outskirts of Morton, Mississippi, Halloween
Estimate £18,000 - 22,000 ‡
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32
William Eggleston
Tallahatchie County, Mississippi
Estimate £12,000 - 18,000
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33
Joel Sternfeld
McLean, Virginia, December
Estimate £15,000 - 20,000
Sold for £19,050
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34
Seydou Keïta
Untitled (Father and daughter, Bamako)
Estimate £18,000 - 22,000 ‡
Sold for £33,020
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35
Irving Penn
Cuzco Children, Peru
Estimate £15,000 - 25,000 ‡
Sold for £17,780
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36
Sally Mann
Holding Virginia
Estimate £8,000 - 12,000 ‡
Sold for £44,450
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37
Philip-Lorca diCorcia
Heads #23
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000 ‡
Sold for £12,700
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38
Philip-Lorca diCorcia
Michael Jenson, 19 years old, Dallas, Texas, $20 / Jerry Imel, 18 years old, Wichita, Kansas, $20
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000 ‡
Sold for £6,985
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39
Philip-Lorca diCorcia
Tokyo
Estimate £5,000 - 7,000 ‡
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40No Reserve
Philip-Lorca diCorcia
Heads #24
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 •‡
Sold for £6,350
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41No Reserve
Nan Goldin
At the bar: Toon, Cee, and So, Bangkok
Estimate £5,000 - 7,000 •‡
Sold for £17,780
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42No Reserve
Nan Goldin
Joey and Andres in the Hotel Askanischer Hof, Berlin
Estimate £5,000 - 7,000 •‡
Sold for £5,715
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43
Robert Mapplethorpe
Frank Diaz
Estimate £5,000 - 7,000 ‡
Sold for £6,350
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44
Diane Arbus
Mia Villiers-Farrow on a Bed
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 ‡
Sold for £8,890
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45No Reserve
Lee Friedlander
New York City
Estimate £1,500 - 2,500 •‡
Sold for £2,540
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46
William Klein
Dana Happening, Tokyo
Estimate £7,000 - 9,000 ♠
Sold for £15,240
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47
Ishiuchi Miyako
Yokosuka Story #5
Estimate £7,000 - 9,000 ‡
Sold for £17,780
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48
Ishiuchi Miyako
Yokosuka Story #15
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000 ‡
Sold for £6,096
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49
Robert Mapplethorpe
Thomas
Estimate £12,000 - 18,000
Sold for £27,940
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50
André Gelpke
Sylt from Fluchtgedanken
Estimate £7,000 - 9,000 ‡♠
Sold for £10,795
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51
Robert Adams
South from the South Jetty, Clatsop County, Oregon
Estimate £7,000 - 9,000 ‡
Sold for £10,160
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52
Irving Penn
Fish Bones on a Plate, New York
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000
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53
Irving Penn
Still Life with Shoe
Estimate £8,000 - 12,000 ‡
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54
Joel Meyerowitz
Camel Coats, New York City
Estimate £7,000 - 9,000 ‡
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55
Nan Goldin
Self Portrait in Hotel Baur au Lac, Zürich
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000 ‡
Sold for £13,970
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56
Nan Goldin
Aurèle Caressing Joana’s Teeth, NY
Estimate £5,000 - 7,000 ‡
Sold for £5,715
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57
Nan Goldin
Kathleen at the Bowery Bar, NYC
Estimate £5,000 - 7,000 ‡
Sold for £5,715
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58
Sally Mann
Last Light
Estimate £8,000 - 12,000 ‡
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59
Sally Mann
Crossed Braids
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000
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60
Tomoko Sawada
School Days
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000
Sold for £10,160
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61
Zanele Muholi
Sifikile, Nuoro, Italy from Somnyama Ngonyama
Estimate £12,000 - 18,000 ‡
Sold for £15,240
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62
Zanele Muholi
Zazi I, ISGM, Boston
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000 ‡
Sold for £12,700
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63
Zanele Muholi
Bukhosi I, Parktown from Somnyama Ngonyama
Estimate £7,000 - 9,000 ‡
Sold for £10,160
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64
Chris Smith
Ali and The Beatles
Estimate £15,000 - 20,000
Sold for £40,640
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65
John Stewart
Ali Fist, Chicago
Estimate £12,000 - 18,000 ‡♠
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66
Flip Schulke
Ali Underwater
Estimate £9,000 - 12,000 ‡
Sold for £21,590
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67
Annie Leibovitz
Queen Elizabeth II, Buckingham Palace, London
Estimate £12,000 - 18,000
Sold for £24,130
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68
Steven Klein
Kate in Red
Estimate £8,000 - 12,000 ‡
Sold for £15,240
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69
This lot is no longer available.
70
Horst P. Horst
Mainbocher Corset, Paris
Estimate £15,000 - 20,000 ‡
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71
William Klein
Maquillage Backstage, Paris
Estimate £7,000 - 9,000 ♠
Sold for £11,430
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72
Melvin Sokolsky
Saint Germain, Paris
Estimate £5,000 - 7,000 ‡
Sold for £6,985
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73
William Klein
Smoke + Veil, Paris (Vogue)
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 ‡♠
Sold for £5,080
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74No Reserve
Jeanloup Sieff
Sur un Lit
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 •‡♠
Sold for £10,160
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75
Judy Dater
Imogen and Twinka at Yosemite
Estimate £3,000 - 5,000 ‡
Sold for £3,810
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76
Vik Muniz
The Poppy Field at Argenteuil, after Claude Monet from Pictures of Pigment
Estimate £20,000 - 30,000 ‡
Sold for £22,860
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77
Pieter Hugo
Mallam Mantari Lamal with Mainasara, Nigeria from The Hyena and Other Men
Estimate £20,000 - 30,000 ‡
Sold for £24,130
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78
John Baldessari
Raised Eyebrows/Furrowed Foreheads: Painting, Person, Dog (Maquette)
Estimate £15,000 - 25,000 ‡
Sold for £16,510
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79
Wolfgang Tillmans
paper drop (red)
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000 ‡♠
Sold for £17,780
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80
Wolfgang Tillmans
still life, Lucca
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000 ‡♠
Sold for £12,700
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81
Erwin Olaf
Hope Portraits Portfolio
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000 ♠
Sold for £12,700
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82
Wolfgang Tillmans
Kleine Welle
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000 ♠
Sold for £10,795
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83
Wolfgang Tillmans
haircut
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 ‡♠
Sold for £6,350
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84
Wolfgang Tillmans
Weed
Estimate £3,000 - 5,000 ‡♠
Sold for £8,890
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85
Alex Prager
Virginia
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000
Sold for £7,620
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86No Reserve
Paul Hodgson
Botanist
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000 •♠
Sold for £1,905
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87
Annie Leibovitz
Glenda, San Francisco
Estimate £2,000 - 3,000 ‡
Sold for £1,905
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88No Reserve
Guido Mocafico
Bothrops Alternatus
Estimate £7,000 - 9,000 •♠
Sold for £2,286
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89
Ben Cauchi
Untitled
Estimate £2,000 - 3,000
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90
Yto Barrada
Iris et Ronces, Tanger
Estimate £2,500 - 3,500 ♠
Sold for £2,413
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91
Henri Cartier-Bresson
Rue Mouffetard, Paris
Estimate £12,000 - 18,000 ‡♠
Sold for £33,020
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92
Henri Cartier-Bresson
Behind the Gare Saint-Lazare, Paris
Estimate £8,000 - 12,000 ♠
Sold for £16,510
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93
Henri Cartier-Bresson
Queen Charlotte's Ball, London
Estimate £8,000 - 12,000 ‡♠
Sold for £15,240
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94
Tina Modotti
Untitled (Protest Rally)
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000 ‡
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95
Brett Weston
Dunes
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000
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96
Lisette Model
Newspaperman, Paris
Estimate £5,000 - 7,000 ♠
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97
Henri Cartier-Bresson
Trafalgar Square on the Day of the Coronation of King George VI, London
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000 ♠
Sold for £12,700
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98
Henri Cartier-Bresson
On the Banks of the Marne
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 ♠
Sold for £12,065
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99
Henri Cartier-Bresson
Construction of the Beijing University swimming pool by students
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 ‡♠
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100
Elliott Erwitt
Photographs
Estimate £7,000 - 9,000 ‡
Sold for £6,350
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101
Seydou Keïta
Untitled (Two women and a girl with Peugeot automobile)
Estimate £5,000 - 7,000 ‡
Sold for £5,080
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102
Malick Sidibé
Selected Images
Estimate £5,000 - 7,000 ‡
Sold for £6,350
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103
Aaron Siskind
Jerome, Arizona 21
Estimate £5,000 - 7,000
Sold for £5,334
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104
W. Eugene Smith
Railroad Tracks, Pittsburgh
Estimate £3,000 - 5,000
Sold for £3,810
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105
Ray K. Metzker
Atlantic City
Estimate £3,000 - 5,000
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106
Walker Evans
Roadside Gas Sign
Estimate £2,000 - 3,000
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107No Reserve
Margaret Bourke-White
Aerial View Of Single Family Houses, Muncie, Indiana
Estimate £2,000 - 3,000 •
Sold for £508
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108
Mario Giacomelli
Untitled from Presa di coscienza sulla natura
Estimate £1,200 - 1,800 ♠
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109
Garry Winogrand
Untitled from Women Are Beautiful
Estimate £2,000 - 3,000
Sold for £4,064
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110
Garry Winogrand
Untitled from Women Are Beautiful
Estimate £2,000 - 3,000
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111No Reserve
Garry Winogrand
San Marcos, Texas
Estimate £3,000 - 5,000 •‡
Sold for £1,905
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112No Reserve
Marc Riboud
Selected Images
Estimate £3,000 - 5,000 •‡♠
Sold for £1,905
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113
Louis Stettner
Brooklyn Promenade
Estimate £3,000 - 5,000 ‡
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114
Terry O'Neill
The Rolling Stones
Estimate £3,000 - 5,000 ♠
Sold for £8,255
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115
Nick Brandt
Lion Before Storm I, Masaai Mara
Estimate £20,000 - 30,000 ‡♠
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116
Nick Brandt
Cheetah and Cubs Lying on Rock, Serengeti
Estimate £20,000 - 30,000 ‡♠
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117
Nick Brandt
Lionesses Readying to Hunt, Maasai Mara
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000 ‡♠
Sold for £12,700
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118
Peter Beard
Giraffes in Mirage on the Taru Desert, Kenya, June
Estimate £8,000 - 12,000
Sold for £10,795
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119
Peter Beard
Agnes of El Molo Bay, Loyangalani, Lake Rudolf
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000
Sold for £6,985
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120
Peter Beard
Ode to the Peace Corpse, Alia Bay, Lake Rudolf
Estimate £3,000 - 5,000
Sold for £4,064
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121
Peter Beard
Lion Kill, Ol Loitokitok, Tanganyika, June
Estimate £3,000 - 5,000
Sold for £3,810
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122
Nick Brandt
Baboons in Profile, Amboseli
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 ‡♠
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123No Reserve
Clifford Ross
Mountain III
Estimate £7,000 - 9,000 •
Sold for £4,445
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124
Sebastião Salgado
Coal Mining, Dhanbad, India
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 ‡♠
Sold for £5,080
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125
Sebastião Salgado
Mali
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 ‡♠
Sold for £5,080
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126
Sebastião Salgado
Blind Woman, Mali
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 ‡♠
Sold for £5,715
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127
Sebastião Salgado
Tigray, Ethiopia
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 ‡♠
Sold for £5,715
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128
Stuart Franklin
Tiananmen Square, Beijing
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 ♠
Sold for £7,620
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129
Robert Capa
D-Day Landing, Omaha Beach, Normandy
Estimate £1,000 - 2,000 ♠
Sold for £2,794
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130
Helmut Newton
Sie Kommen, Naked, Paris
Estimate £40,000 - 60,000
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131
Mert & Marcus
Missy Running
Estimate £30,000 - 50,000 ♠
Sold for £57,150
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132
Robert Mapplethorpe
Lisa Marie / Breasts
Estimate £20,000 - 30,000
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133
Robert Mapplethorpe
Lisa Lyon
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000
Sold for £20,320
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134
Robert Mapplethorpe
Lisa Lyon
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000
Sold for £12,065
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135
Robert Mapplethorpe
Flower
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000
Sold for £12,700
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136
Robert Mapplethorpe
Irises
Estimate £15,000 - 25,000
Sold for £38,100
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137
Irving Penn
Dior Fur Scarf (Jean Patchett), New York
Estimate £30,000 - 50,000
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138
Richard Avedon
Dovima with Elephants, Evening Dress by Dior, Cirque d'Hiver, Paris, August
Estimate £100,000 - 150,000
Sold for £139,700
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139
Mario Testino
Kate Moss, Los Angeles, Harper’s Bazaar
Estimate £20,000 - 30,000 ♠
Sold for £40,640
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140
Sante D'Orazio
Cindy Crawford, The Argyle Hotel, Los Angeles
Estimate £12,000 - 18,000
Sold for £16,510
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141
Ellen von Unwerth
Claudia Schiffer for Guess, Morocco
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000 ♠
Sold for £22,860
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142
Herb Ritts
Floating Torso, St. Barthelemy
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000
Sold for £12,700
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143
Mario Sorrenti
Léa Seydoux
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000 ♠
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144
Herb Ritts
Cindy Crawford - Blonde, Malibu
Estimate £8,000 - 12,000
Sold for £10,795
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145
Michael Halsband
Andy Warhol + Jean-Michel Basquiat #143, New York City, July 10th, 1985
Estimate £20,000 - 30,000
Sold for £48,260
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146
Irving Penn
Steinberg in Nose Mask, New York
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000
Sold for £21,590
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147
Richard Avedon
Henry Moore, Sculptor, Much Hadham, England
Estimate £8,000 - 12,000
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148
Richard Avedon
Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller 5/8/57
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000
Sold for £27,940
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149
David Bailey
Catherine Deneuve, Flamingo
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000 ♠
Sold for £13,970
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150
Terry O'Neill
Faye Dunaway, Hollywood
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000 ♠
Sold for £40,640
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151
Robert Mapplethorpe
Deborah Harry
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000
Sold for £35,560
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152
Brian Duffy
David Bowie
Estimate £7,000 - 9,000 ♠
Sold for £27,940
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153
Ellen von Unwerth
Your Turn, Rihanna
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000 ♠
Sold for £20,320
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154
Terry O'Neill
Brigitte Bardot, Spain
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000 ♠
Sold for £48,260
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155
Terry O'Neill
Raquel Welch on the Cross
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000 ♠
Sold for £13,970
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156
Jerry Schatzberg
Faye Dunaway
Estimate £10,000 - 15,000
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157
Helmut Newton
Diving Tower, Old Beach Hotel, Monte Carlo
Estimate £7,000 - 9,000
Sold for £8,255
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158
Helmut Newton
Cyberwoman 1-7
Estimate £7,000 - 9,000
Sold for £11,430
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159
Herb Ritts
Female Torso Detail, Hollywood
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000
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160
Patrick Demarchelier
Cindy, New York
Estimate £7,000 - 9,000 ♠
Sold for £10,160
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161
Albert Watson
Christy Turlington, New York City
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 ♠
Sold for £6,096
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162
Dennis Stock
Audrey Hepburn during the filming of 'Sabrina' by Billy Wilder
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000
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163
David Bailey
John and Paul
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000 ♠
Sold for £8,890
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164
David Bailey
John and Paul
Estimate £6,000 - 8,000 ♠
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165
David Bailey
The Kray Brothers
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 ♠
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166
William Claxton
Chet Baker (at the piano), Hollywood
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000
Sold for £4,445
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167
Terry O'Neill
Elton John Performing at Dodger Stadium, Los Angeles
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 ♠
Sold for £15,240
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168
Terry O'Neill
Elton John Performing at Dodger Stadium, Los Angeles
Estimate £4,000 - 6,000 ♠
Sold for £12,700
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