Patek Philippe - STYLED. Timeless Watches & How to Wear Them New York Wednesday, December 5, 2018 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
    Year: 1959
    Reference No: 2597
    Movement No: 727'314
    Case No: 309'779
    Material: 18K pink gold
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 12-400, 18 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K pink gold Patek Philippe buckle
    Dimensions: 35mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.
    Accessories: With Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming production of the present watch in pink gold in 1959 and its subsequent sale on April 14th, 1960.
    Literature: Examples of the reference 2597 are illustrated in Patek Philippe Wristwatches by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, second edition, pp. 238 & 239.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The mid-20th century emerged from the war years with a new world order with some nations in ruin, and others the new dominant powers. The sea change occurring politically, further changed the societal fabric with a new perspective, witnessing a breakdown of old class barriers, to one more casual and egalitarian. These changes affected all aspects of life and horology was no exception. By the early 1950s, brands competed to make tool watches that had both commercial and recreational uses. The growth of global travel that began in the early years of the 20th century blossomed with the advent of jet travel in the 1950s and 1960s, and it was to these new globe trotters that brands sought to produce watches, which not only told time, but had a functional purpose when crossing multiple time zones. The watches could be masculine and rugged in stainless steel, or elegant and gentlemanly in solid gold. Patek Philippe’s reference 2597 was one of the most sophisticated and innovative designs from this early era.

    Patek Philippe released the reference 2597 in 1958, which was based on a Louis Cottier-designed prototype from 1953 with heures sautantes, or jumping hours. Cottier, an independent watchmaker, was known for his ingenious work on specialized timepieces from jumping digital hour watches, to aviators’ watches and most notably his “World Time” mechanism from 1931. Over the span of almost 30 years, he delivered to Patek Philippe approximately 380 watch movements leading to some of the most sought after timepieces of the 20th century, including the reference 1415 “World Time” with engraved bezel with 41 world cities, the reference 2523 - a two crown “World Time” watch rotating world city ring on the dial, and the reference 2597 which came in two series.

    The first, like the present watch, with one hour hand and two pushers in the left side of the case allowing for the hour hand to be quickly adjusted forward or backward. The second series, launched in 1962 added an additional hour hand. So intelligent and enduring was this design, a version of the same system can be found in Patek Philippe’s World Time Chronograph ref. 5930G launched in 2016. Scholarship tells us that the first version was made in approximately 100 pieces, with the vast majority cased in yellow gold.

    The present example is a remarkable and exciting discovery. Absolutely fresh-to-the-market and previously unknown, it remained in the original owner’s possession for most of its life, appearing publicly here for the first time. According to scholarship, it is only the second example of a first series reference 2597 in pink gold to ever appear – and the present watch further impresses with its outstanding overall condition. Elevating the watch’s importance, it’s believed to be the first and only known reference 2597 across both series to appear with the prestigious "Gobbi, Milano" retailer signature.

    The large case is beautifully preserved with strong proportions, having never been polished, and showing signs of modest wear – enjoyed perhaps only for special occasions throughout the owner’s lifetime. Impressively, the inside caseback shows no service marks of any kind - proof that the watch has seen no intervention throughout its lifespan. Its dial is stunning, with slender raised enamel numerals with four lapidated markers at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. The raised hard enamel signature, as well as the retailer signature, remain perfectly intact with no losses from prior cleanings.

    The 1950s was a period of great innovation and understated case design with many models becoming icons of 20th century horology. This lot, with its rarity and superb condition, is sure to please not only the frequent traveler but also the discerning collector looking for a historically significant horological masterpiece.

  • Artist Biography

    Patek Philippe

    Swiss • 1839

    Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.

    Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.

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Ref. 2597
An important, extremely rare, well-preserved, and highly attractive pink gold dual time wristwatch with separately adjustable hour hand, retailed by Gobbi, Milano

35mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement, and buckle signed.

$150,000 - 300,000 

Sold for $225,000

Contact Specialist
Paul Boutros
Head of Watches, Americas
+1 212 940 1293

STYLED. Timeless Watches & How to Wear Them

New York Auction 5 December 2018