1007Σ︎
Patek Philippe
Ref. 3970E, Third Series
A rare and well-preserved white gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with French calendar, moon phases, 24-hour, leap-year indication and Certificate of Origin
Full-Cataloguing
- White gold is the scarcest out of all the metals
- Fresh-to-the-market and offered by its original owner who acquired from Gübelin Lucerne in 1994
- This Third Series example is exceptionally well-preserved
- Features a French calendar
Introduced in 1986, the ref. 3970 succeeded the legendary, long-running ref. 2499, inaugurating a new chapter in Patek Philippe’s lineage of perpetual calendar chronographs. It was powered by the upgraded Lemania-based cal. CH 27‑70 Q, which replaced the Valjoux-derived movement of its predecessor. While preserving the family’s timeless aesthetic, the ref. 3970 adopted a more contemporary presence with a reduced diameter of 36mm. Produced for nearly two decades across four distinct series and in all four precious metals—yellow gold, pink gold, white gold, and platinum—the total production is estimated at approximately 4,000 examples.
First Series (1986–1988) – Features a snap‑back case, feuille hands, and rectangular indexes. Produced exclusively in yellow gold, with an estimated 100 examples.
Second Series (1987–1990) – Distinguished by a solid screw‑back case marked “E – Étanche,” feuille hands, hallmarks on the side of the lugs, and rectangular indexes. Offered in all four metals, with an estimated 450 examples across the series.
Third Series (1989–1995) – Introduces a solid screw‑back case with an additional sapphire display caseback, baton hands, and lapidated indexes. Approximately 1,350 examples were produced across all metals. (The present example.)
Fourth Series (1994–2004) – Shares the same configuration as the third series; from 1997 onward, examples were fitted with deployant clasps. Estimated production totals approximately 2,000 examples across all four metals.
The present example, a white gold ref. 3970 from the Third Series, is distinguished by its sapphire display back and faceted baton indices. Among the four metals, white gold is the scarcest. Fitted with a silvered “argenté” dial and French calendar, this “fresh‑to‑the‑market” example remains exceptionally well preserved, offered by its original owner who purchased it from the Gübelin boutique in Lucerne in 1994. Only approximately 5 examples in white gold with silver dial are known from the Third Series. For the discerning collector seeking one of the most desirable iterations of this landmark reference, this ref. 3970E presents an outstanding opportunity.
Patek Philippe
Swiss | 1839Since its founding in 1839, this famous Geneva-based firm has been surprising its clientele with superbly crafted timepieces fitted with watchmaking's most prestigious complications. Traditional and conservative designs are found across Patek Philippe's watches made throughout their history — the utmost in understated elegance.
Well-known for the Graves Supercomplication — a highly complicated pocket watch that was the world’s most complicated watch for 50 years — this family-owned brand has earned a reputation of excellence around the world. Patek's complicated vintage watches hold the highest number of world records for results achieved at auction compared with any other brand. For collectors, key models include the reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph, and its successor, the reference 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450, chronographs such as the reference 130, 530 and 1463, as well as reference 1436 and 1563 split seconds chronographs. Patek is also well-known for their classically styled, time-only "Calatrava" dress watches, and the "Nautilus," an iconic luxury sports watch first introduced in 1976 as the reference 3700 that is still in production today.