E va Violante
\nSenior Specialist, Vice President
\nNew York

\n\n

+1 212 940 1316

\n","circa","Circa 1970","artistInscription","dimensions","medium","Round brilliant- and single-cut diamonds\r\nSigned, with maker’s mark, with French assay mark\r\nPlatinum and 18 karat white gold, length approximately 3.50 inches","sigEdtMan","provenance","literature","exhibited","preface","essay","mainImagePath","https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/NY060420/11_001.jpg","additionalImagePaths",[457],"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/NY060420/11_010.jpg","lotSymbols",[],"estimateSymbols",[],"enhancedLotComponents",[],"conditionReport","OVERALL CONDITION: Very good condition. Some diamonds with nicks, chips and abrasions. Wear to metal is commensurate with age. Largest diamond approximately 1.00 carat.\r\n\r\nDIAMONDS: \r\nQuantity: 97\r\nShape/Cut: Round brilliant-cut and single-cut\r\nApproximate Total Weight: 20.00 carats \r\nApproximate Average Color: H/I/J\r\nApproximate Average Clarity: VS/SI\r\n\r\nADDITIONAL INFORMATION:\r\nApproximate Gross Weight: 49.41 grams\r\nClosure Type: Double pin stem with trombone safety catch\r\nApproximate Length: 3.50 inches\r\nApproximate Width: 1.50 inches\r\nSignature/Hallmarking: (clasp mounting) Chaumet, (pin stem) OR, SC, French assay marks, (side of mounting) 950 PT, maker’s mark\r\n\r\nGRADED AS MOUNTING PERMITS.","NY060420","auctionCurrency",{"_364":365,"_469":367},"currencySign","webDescription","auction",{"_58":358,"_56":466,"_60":473,"_62":63,"_66":67,"_70":355,"_72":357,"_474":475,"_476":477,"_64":404,"_478":406,"_84":479,"_480":481,"_482":483,"_484":485,"_486":487,"_439":440,"_488":-5,"_489":45,"_490":45,"_491":83,"_492":45,"_493":45,"_494":45,"_82":45,"_495":45,"_496":45,"_434":45,"_497":45,"_498":83,"_499":45,"_500":45,"_501":45,"_86":83,"_426":45,"_427":83,"_502":503,"_3375":3376,"_3377":3378,"_87":-5,"_124":3416,"_3417":3418,"_74":3464,"_467":3467,"_93":-5,"_3468":3369,"_141":3469,"_68":3470,"_3471":3472,"_139":-5},"Jewels & More: Online Auction","lowestEstimate",800,"highestEstimate",240000,"saleTypeId","https://assets.phillips.com/image/upload/t_Website_AuctionPageHero/v1594738635/auctions/NY060420/NY060420.jpg","contactEmail","sabeles@phillips.com","conditionRequestEmail","EViolante@phillips.com","auctionDetails","

Online Auction 22 - 28 July 2020

\n\n

450 Park Avenue, New York (map)

\n\n

Online Bidding Guide >

\n\n

The countdown timer above indicates when the first lot in the sale will close. Each subsequent lot will close one minute after the preceding lot. If a bid is placed in the final three minutes of bidding time on a lot, there will be a bidding extension of 3 minutes, so that there will always a be 3-minute period between the last bid placed and the closing time of that lot. These extensions will continue indefinitely until there is no more bidding activity on the lot for a period of 3 minutes. The extension of one lot's closing time does not affect the closing times of other lots in the Online Only sale, so it is possible that lots will close out of numerical order.

\n\n

As a result of the unprecedented COVID-19 pandemic and recent New York State and City mandated restrictions on commercial operations, Phillips regrets that we are unable to make lots from this sale available for pre-Auction, in-person inspection. If you purchase any Lot(s) from this sale, Phillips will permit you a seven (7) day period to physically inspect each Lot following its delivery to you, and you may, at no cost to you, give us written notice that you wish to cancel your purchase of that Lot within its seven (7) day.

\n\n

Viewing by appointment only

\n\n

Friday 24 10am-6pm

\n\n

Sunday 25 12–6pm

\n\n

Monday 27 10am-6pm

\n\n

Tuesday 28 10am-2pm

\n\n

Contact EViolante@phillips.com

\n\n

or +1 212 940 1316 to arrange your appointment

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GRAFF. A Pair of Ruby, Diamond and Gold 'Waterfall' Earrings

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MELLERIO. A Diamond and Platinum Ring

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MARGHERITA BURGENER. A Pair of Diamond, Fancy Sapphire, Gold and Titanium Earrings

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ETTORE SOTTSASS. A Diamond, Enamel and Gold Ring

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MARINA B. A Gold Necklace

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DAVID WEBB. A Pair of Enamel and Gold Cufflinks

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RENE BOIVIN. A Wood and Gold Bracelet

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PIAGET. A Tiger's Eye and Gold Watch Necklace

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CHAUMET. A Pair of Lapis Lazuli, Coral and Gold Earrings

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Laurence Graff, with Picasso's L'Aubade. Courtesy of Graff.

\n\n

Laurence Graff is a single-minded visionary. In the jewelry world, he has accomplished what no other person has ever done during a single lifetime. He established the most important jewelry brand, recognized around the globe, in only five decades. Today, the Graff signature indicates one thing: the best, whether it be an exceptional gem or a superlative jewel.

\n\n

Growing up in a tight-knit community of London’s East End during the 1930s and 40s, Graff was exposed to the hurried and impulsive trading on Hessel Street, which was the heart of the famous Jewish market. This street education — during a period of poverty and hardship and the effects of war and the black market — was balanced and supplemented by the warmth and nurturing world his religious extended family offered. Determination, honesty, respect, modesty, resiliency, and self-respect were the values his family taught and which Graff embraced. Steeped in this environment, young Graff honed his natural entrepreneurial skills by collecting comic books and trading cigarette cards. His early experiences left an indelible imprint which remain today at the very core of Graff’s life and philosophy.

\n\n

\n\n

Graff. A Diamond and Gold Necklace. A Pair of Ruby, Diamond and Gold ‘Waterfall’ Earrings. A Pair of Diamond and Gold Earrings.

\n\n

At age 15, Graff’s mother took him to a Hatton Garden’s jeweler to learn a trade — but it was at a second jeweler, Segal & Co., where Graff first learned to repair and then to make jewelry. His apprenticeship included the traditional practical benchwork as well as coursework. By age 18, when Segal & Co ceased trading, Graff formed a partnership with an older jeweler repairing Victorian jewelry. This marked the beginning of Graff's adult career, and reflected his uncanny ability to seize opportunities and take risks. When he purchased 33 unmounted diamonds from a dealer, in lieu of creating separate diamond rings, Graff created one ring utilizing all 33 stones, which he sold immediately. This exemplifies Graff’s business acumen, understanding of the market, and passion for gemstones — he recognized that “flash” carries importance. Although not financially monumental, this sale was a benchmark and turning point for Graff. In 1960, the house of Graff was founded. Today, Graff remains a family business; François, Mr. Graff’s son is CEO, his brother Raymond Graff oversees jewelry production, and his nephew Elliot is responsible for operation logistics, design and merchandizing.

\n\n

\n\n

Graff. A Pair of Diamond and Gold ‘Pagoda’ Earrings.

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The house of Graff is also uniquely positioned as a vertically integrated company, thanks to Laurence Graff’s pioneering foresight. The company is independent in its jewelry making process — from mine to finished jewel. Gem Diamonds and SAFDICO (South African Diamond Corporation) are Graff’s procurement and polishing divisions where the diamonds are mined, cut and polished. Diamonds, organized by shape, color and size are then sent to the design team and, contrary to the typical process, the designs at Graff are created from the available stones, not vice versa. When design comes first and stones are sourced to fit it is more time consuming and labor intensive. Graff jewels are prompted by the intimate relationship between designer and stone. Once the hand-drawn design is completed and approved by Laurence Graff, the drawing is sent to a three-dimensional printer so that the workshop is provided with an exact model of how and where to set the stones. The results of this unique process can be seen in our Jewels & More online sale: lots 56, 57, 59, 60, 62, 63, 68, and 81.

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Hand drawn Gouache. Courtesy of Maison Birks.

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Laurence Graff’s business instincts have kept him at the forefront of the retail and wholesale industry and this included recognizing the opportunities and benefits of travel. He explored Asia and the Middle East; discovering new cultures and making important contacts. On the technical side of the business, Graff is a self-taught gemologist and he possesses a rare ability to see the beauty of a stone when others cannot. He connects to a diamond and is able to visualize how to maximize its beauty. His skill is more innate than it is learned.

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Graff Diamonds’ reputation for offering the most important gemstones is unrivaled and distinctive. A superlative example is the Lesedi La Rona, cut from a 1,109 carat rough to yield the 302.37 carat, square emerald-cut diamond of the highest quality and clarity ever graded by the Gemological Institute of America. This is a work of art; taking more than a year to create, in addition to yielding 66 “satellite” diamonds. While it was initially thought that the rough would not yield a diamond of exceptional clarity, Graff saw the possibility and made it happen.

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Bigger, better, best and attaining perfection are the driving forces for jeweler, diamantaire, art collector and philanthropist Laurence Graff.

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\n","publishDate","2020-07-27T12:30:09.000000Z","authorCredit","Phillip Crook",[],"coverPosX","coverPosY","articleUrl","https://www.phillips.com/article/60907250/laurence-graff-jewels-online-auction","auctionEditorialID",910,"editorialID",3106,"flocklerID",60907250,{"_3420":3444,"_3422":153,"_3423":3445,"_131":3446,"_3426":3447,"_3428":3448,"_3430":3431,"_430":3449,"_3433":1527,"_3434":418,"_3435":3450,"_409":198,"_3437":3451,"_3439":1098,"_3441":3452},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/ettore-sottsass-rings-3e27e557-c51c-48d7-add5-56c137758a41_s600x0.png","An unexpected collaboration between the leaders of Italian architecture and design brought new shape to the jewelry world.","Architectural Jewels: Ettore Sottsass for Cleto Munari","

Ettore Sottsass for Cleto Munari. A Gold ‘Arches’ ring, 2002 and a Diamond, Onyx and Gold ‘Roof’ Ring, 1985.

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by Eva Violante

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In the early 1980’s, Italian designer Cleto Munari invited twenty world renowned architects including Ettore Sottsass, Michele De Lucchi, Peter Shire, and Peter Eisenman to create a jewelry collection for his namesake brand. Munari envisaged a number of interdisciplinary projects for the design brand focused on precious metals that he founded in the early 1970s with Carlo Scarpa. Lucky for us, an out of print book, Jewelry by Architects by Barbara Radice, 1988, documented the historic jewelry collaboration among these leading figures in design.

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Cleto Munari, left. Ettore Sottsass, right. Courtesy of Alessandro Munari.

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Perhaps one of the most important collaborations was with fellow Italian architect and designer, Ettore Sottsass. According to Alessandro Munari, nephew and Managing Director of Cleto Munari, the two were dear friends since 1972 and business partners for ten years. “Ettore was Cleto’s mentor and closest friend.”

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Ettore Sottsass for Cleto Munari. A Diamond, Onyx and Gold ‘Roof’ Ring, 1985. Featured in Jewels by Architects, Barbara Radice, 1988.

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Together the two created a limited-edition jewelry line that defied traditional jewelry limits. The lines, volume, scale and architectural stories revealed in each jewel were novel to the industry. We are pleased to offer two jewels born out of this collaboration in Phillips' Jewels & More online auction, 22-28 July. First, A Diamond, Onyx and Gold ring, 1985, produced as part of the “Jewels by Architects” series and featured in the eponymous book. There were less than nine pieces of this original design produced between 1985 and 1998. Inspired by a roof, it is easy to see the correlation between this roof or “tetto” ring and the unconventional roofs that Sottsass could regularly be found drawing, sketching, and modeling.

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Courtesy of Sottsass Associates, Rizzoli, 1988.

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Sottsass had a talent for making an ancient design new and relevant.
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Likewise, the “Arches” ring is one of the 32 Sottsass for Cleto Munari jewels designed in 2002 as part of the “La Seduzione” series, and it is a limited edition, numbered “9/9”. Combining their skills, Sottsass and Munari conceived jewels that translate the most advanced figurative research from centuries of architectural study into wearable gold objects. For example, “Arches” architectural composition transfers Brunelleschi’s cupola from the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore directly to the hand. “Sottsass had a talent for making an ancient design new and relevant.” Thus, it is no surprise that Sottsass, founder of the breakthrough ‘Memphis Movement’ in design, was celebrated for pushing the boundaries between industrial design and pop culture. At 90 years old Cleto Munari says of his friend, “what Ettore did with Memphis Group has really been the very last important movement in Italian design.”

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Ettore Sottsass for Cleto Munari. ‘Atrium’ Ring, 2002.

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Cleto Munari’s objects are now part of the permanent collections of the Museum of Modern Art, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and the Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum in New York, among others. Sottsass, one of the most important figures in post-modern design, is led in the auction world by Phillips.

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\n","2020-07-22T00:16:02.000000Z",[],"https://www.phillips.com/article/60729737/ettore-sottsass-cleto-munari-jewels-online-auction",906,60729737,{"_3420":3454,"_3422":153,"_3423":3455,"_131":3456,"_3426":3457,"_3428":3458,"_3430":3431,"_430":3459,"_3433":1527,"_3434":418,"_3435":3460,"_409":547,"_3437":3461,"_3439":3462,"_3441":3463},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/ruchi-headshot-2-1c145afd-62cb-4769-a79b-55a71029de55_s600x0.jpg","\"Great things happen when women support women,\" says the designer, whose pieces have adorned the likes of Sarah Jessica Parker, Jennifer Hudson and Oprah. ","In Conversation with Ruchi Kotahwala","

Ruchi Kotahwala, founder and designer of Ruchi New York.

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Ruchi Kotahwala, designer of Ruchi New York, founded her company with a mission for social justice, combining her passion for design with her commitment to support women and children across the globe. A portion of the proceeds from all Ruchi New York sales benefit charities for children’s education, medical research, and the empowerment of women—a fact that has drawn notable women to her vibrant, playful designs, including Sarah Jessica Parker, Jennifer Hudson and Oprah. Here, Associate Specialist and Graduate Gemologist Anne Mock talks with Ruchi about her journey through the jewelry industry and advice for aspiring designers.

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The best advice I was given was ‘honesty and authenticity matter’ — and I live by it! —Ruchi Kotahwala
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Anne Mock: What inspired you to get into the jewelry business and when did you realize you wanted to start your own company?

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Ruchi Kotahwala: I grew up in India where jewelry was an inherent part of the culture. As a young girl I loved nothing more than trying on my mom and grandmother’s jewelry. I was obsessed with everything creative. I knew early on that I wanted to express my creativity through jewelry designing. I ran a small jewelry business on the side, creating unique pieces for friends and family while in college. In 1998, soon after I graduated from college, I went to GIA Carlsbad to study gemstones and jewelry designing. Two decades later I established my brand Ruchi New York in New York City.

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AM: Who have been your biggest mentors and what is the best advice they have ever given you?

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RK: I have a lot of great women in my life who have been immensely encouraging and supportive of me and my vision, but I could not have done it without my husband, Vishal’s, guidance. The best advice I was given was “ honesty and authenticity matter” ‐ and I live by it!

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A Pair of Diamond, Agate and Gold Earrings.

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AM: Tell me about your design process and what inspires each collection?

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RK: I get inspired by everything beautiful including nature, natural phenomena, art and architecture. I spend a lot of time traveling and sketching concepts at home. Most of my collections are inspired by my physical and spiritual journeys.

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AM: What are some of your favorite stones to work with? Do you have any techniques that set your jewelry apart?

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RK: My work focuses on using varied shapes of stones and a variety of colors. I relate my passion for color to my early roots in India. Playing with color in elegant ways is at the heart of my passion.

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AM: Three key words that define you brand…

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RK: Innovative, versatile, empowering.

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AM: Who is your dream client?

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RK: My dream customer is any person who is passionate about wearing and collecting fine pieces of jewelry. Someone who is curious and appreciates the art and beauty of jewels.

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A Sapphire and Gold Necklace.

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AM: Who are your favorite jewelers?

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RK: I love JAR. His work is nothing less than an exceptional piece of art. I love the variety of colors, stones and techniques he uses. His creativity and craftsmanship is a true testament of dedication to his craft and artistry.

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AM: Is jewelry more than just an adornment for a modern woman?

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RK: To the modern woman, jewelry is not just an adornment. In fact, it is a symbol of beauty, accomplishment and emotional connection to a dearly loved person or a cherished event. It also holds its value as an heirloom whereby, through the piece, you are sharing your family history with generations to come.

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My advice to all the girls and women out there: The most important thing is to have a vision, backed by a plan. —Ruchi Kotahwala
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AM: What is your personal style and why kind of jewelry do you wear?

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RK: I like to wear creative bold pieces that can be worn in versatile ways. Pieces that can be dressed up or dressed down and when worn reflect my personality – it’s my personal reality.

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AM: What advice would you give to young girls who look up to you and want to enter a career in jewelry design?

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RK: My advice to all the girls and women out there: The most important thing is to have a vision, backed by a plan. Being patient, authentic and optimistic helps ride through the challenges and attract the best opportunities. Believe in yourself and you can achieve anything.

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Learn more about Ruchi New York >

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