Cartier - The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X Hong Kong Friday, July 10, 2020 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Cartier
    Year: Circa 1960
    Reference No: 51707
    Case No: 022’850
    Model Name: Baignoire
    Material: Platinum and diamonds
    Calibre: Manual
    Bracelet/Strap: Nylon
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold and platinum Cartier folding clasp
    Dimensions: 21mm width x 31mm length
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
    Accessories: Further accompanied by original Cartier fitted presentation box.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Encased in a platinum and diamond-set oval-shaped case, the present Cartier wristwatch from circa 1960 is most definitely an iconic design of the famed house of luxury. However, what is most interesting about this present example is the presence of early hallmarks on the case back and clasp. The caseback is inscribed with initials “S.P” as well as a retailer hallmark stamped “EJ” and a “dog’s head” hallmark which indicates the case material to be determined as platinum instead of the usual “950” hallmark that is commonly seen. Furthermore, the clasp is stamped with two hallmarks to determine two different materials used for the construction of the clasp. Sitting on top the same “dog's head” hallmark symbolizes platinum and right below another “eagle head” hallmark is present which refers to 18K white gold.

    Preserved in all original condition and further accompanied by the original Cartier presentation box, this present example is an elegant timepiece fit for the discerned vintage collector.

  • Artist Biography



    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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Ref. 51707
A lady’s fine and elegant oval-shaped platinum and diamond-set wristwatch

Circa 1960
21mm width x 31mm length
Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

HK$150,000 - 250,000 

Sold for HK$137,500

Contact Specialist

Thomas Perazzi

Head of Watches, Asia
+852 2318 2001


The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X

Hong Kong Auction 10 July 2020