Cartier - The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX featuring the Guido Mondani Collection Geneva Saturday, May 11, 2024 | Phillips

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  • Condition Report

  • Manufacturer: Cartier
    Year: 1970
    Movement No: 1'949'916
    Case No: 9789
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Manual, cal. 845, 17 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Leather
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Length and 19.5mm Width
    Signed: Case, dial and movement signed, case and clasp furthermore with English hallmarks
    Accessories: Accompanied by a facsimile of the letter from the original owner.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The 1960s and 1970s were a time of incredible creative turmoil. Spurred by the changes in society - which was veering toward more carefree social rules - designers in every field came up with some of the most intriguing designs to ever appear in any field: from watches, to jewellery, passing through the cars, buildings and of course garment fashion, a true design revolution took place during those years. It was during that time that Cartier London was producing some of its most creative and unusual pieces, merging form with function. La maison had imagined a number of fantastical and show-stopping pieces during this time, from the Crash, to the Baignoire and the Pebble, among many others. The present Octagonal Elongated wristwatch perfectly encapsulates the spirit of Cartier's designs during this era. No longer a round, tonneau shape, the case was in a long octagonal form, which also hugged the wrist.

    This timepiece was most notably sold by Cartier London, evidenced by the London hallmarks that date the watch to 1970. Furthermore, all Cartier hand-stamped numbers are visible and crisp. The maker's mark "JC" is visible on the case and clasp, which is the maker's mark for Cartier and represents Jacques Cartier. This maker's mark was seen on pieces made by Cartier London.

    The present watch was originally purchased by the original owner who had purchased the present watch when he was working at Liberty's in London. In 1971, he was reading a magazine and was immediately enthralled by an advertisement showing the present watch. The gentleman decided to go to Cartier on Bond Street, where he subsequently tried on the timepiece and purchased it. At the time, the watch cost approximately 2000 pounds which was equivalent to a full year's salary! The gentleman had enjoyed the timepiece for over 50 years before parting with it.

  • Artist Biography

    Cartier

    French

    With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.

    Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open. 

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208

A highly rare and attractive yellow gold elongated octagonal wristwatch, made by Cartier London

1970
39mm Length and 19.5mm Width
Case, dial and movement signed, case and clasp furthermore with English hallmarks

Estimate
CHF60,000 - 120,000 
€61,300-123,000
$65,600-131,000

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Deputy Chairman, Watches, Head of Watches, Europe, and Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
AGhotbi@phillips.com

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88
TiffanyTo@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: XIX featuring the Guido Mondani Collection

Geneva Auction 11 - 12 May 2024