Manufacturer: Cartier Year: Circa 1991 Reference No: W30012 Case No: No. 93 Model Name: Pasha Material: 18K yellow gold Calibre: Automatic, 26 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Alligator Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold Cartier deployant clasp Dimensions: 38mm Diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement and clasp signed
Catalogue Essay
The brainchild of Gérald Genta, the modern Pasha collection was completely novel and unusual when it was first launched in 1985. Most notably, the new line displayed distinct design codes: a round bezel, defined lugs, and a crown fitted with a cabochon secured by a chain connected to the case.
Powered by an automatic movement, the present perpetual calendar wristwatch wristwatch is also fitted with a minute repeating function that is activated by a sapphire cabochon button on the left and produces a pleasant chime. Most notably, the movement is stamped "GG" for Gerald Genta. With its bevy of complications, it presents enormous value.
Genta's designs are currently going through a resurgence and the present piece is full of nostalgia, representing the designer's ingenious ideas of the 1990s - a period of time where manufactures dreamed of particularly unusual and whimsical timepieces.
So attractive is the Pasha that Cartier re-issued this design in their 2020 lineup, providing a fresh and modern update to the iconic model.
With the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.
Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.