582
Cartier
A Gem-set and Diamond 'Flower' Brooch, Cartier Paris, 1950s, with Interchangeable Flowerheads
- Estimate
- HK$400,000 - 480,000€44,300 - 53,200$50,000 - 60,000
Lot Details
Circular-cut and baguette diamonds on leaves and stems, totalling approximately 8.00 caratsThree interchangeable flowerhead pin brooches, set with pear-shaped and step-cut aquamarines, totalling approximately 28.00 carats
Highlighted by emerald and ruby beads, and circular-cut diamonds, altogether approximately 12.50 caratsPlatinum and 18 karat white gold
Specialist
Full-Cataloguing
Catalogue Essay
Aquamarines enjoyed certain popularity during the Art Deco period, where its understating light blue hue was regarded as an elegant match next to the finely-set colourless diamonds. In the late 40’s to 50’s post-war era, this particular gemstone made a comeback in jewellery. Whilst it was set in contrasting yellow gold during the 40’s, aquamarines were found next to more saturated-coloured rubies and emeralds in the 50’s designs, often set in platinum. This set of brooches were designed with a clever interchangeable mechanism, the brooch itself very probable to be a component of a larger necklace, reflects the naturalistic motifs typical of the 50’s jewellery where flowers are depicted in schematic lines and highlighted by a gemstone cluster in the centre.
Cartier
FrenchWith the Constitution of 1848 came a new standard for luxury in France. Founded one year prior by Louis-Francois Cartier, the house of Cartier was one of the first to use platinum in jewelry making. This incredibly expensive material became the stepping-stone for Cartier to experiment in form, mechanisms and attitude. It helped men move from pocket watches to wristwatches, effectively making the watch much more functional and prominent in a man's overall wardrobe.Cartier did not only touch on functionality. Inspired by a commissioned painting by George Barbier featuring a black panther at the feet of an elegantly bejeweled woman, Cartier began incorporating wild animals in his designs—most notably, Cartier Panthère rings, bangle bracelets and watches. Yet it wasn't until the late 1960s that the house of Cartier debuted their iconic yellow and rose gold LOVE collection, which includes the famous bracelet that only a special screwdriver can open.
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