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“This is a unique stone by carat, color and origin. The cushion shape is an extremely elegant and distinctive cut in Bulgari’s creations, especially fit to glorify the magnificence of the gems. When I first “met” this stone during my scouting in Sri Lanka, I was so impressed and touched that I still remember the emotion I felt. Sri Lankan sapphires possess the transparency and luminosity that Bulgari chooses for its High Jewelry creations: gems that are infused with light and joy. In order to really understand the extraordinary beauty and rarity of this stone, one needs to see it in real. ”
—Lucia Silvestri, Jewellery Creative and Gems Buying Executive Director at BulgariSRI LANKA – ISLAND OF GEMS
Sri Lanka, known as ‘Ceylon’ prior to 1972, remains as one of the most important and historical sources for fine gemstones with one of the earth’s largest concentrations of gem deposits, encompassing more than 40 gem-species, in which blue sapphires account for 85% of the gemstones mined on the island.
Sri Lanka’s gem mining history spans to nearly 2,500 years old, being one of the earliest sources of sapphires in the world producing these beautiful blue jewels that were traded amongst the Greeks, Romans, and Persians and by the 5th Century an active international trade of these gems was established. It is no surprise the impressive array of gemstones has earned Sri Lanka the name of ‘Ratnadeepa’, directly translating to ‘Gem Island’.
SAPPHIRES FROM SRI LANKA
As Lucia Silvestri, Jewellery Creative and Gems Buying Executive Director at Bulgari, pointed out, it is the superb transparency and luminosity that set Sri Lankan sapphires apart. The finest Sri Lankan sapphires possess excellent clarity that gives it a lively brilliance rarely found in specimens from other origins. Though it is impossible for natural sapphires to completely free from inclusions, typical rutile needles in Sri Lankan specimens help scatter light equally on the stone and give it an even body colour.
Notable Sri Lankan sapphires of significant size include the 486.52-carat Giant of the Orient, the 422.99-carat Logan Blue Sapphire on display at the Smithsonian Institution’s Natural Museum of Natural History, and the 392.52-carat Blue Belle of Asia.
ROYAL BLUE
This 118.35-carat sapphire’s rich and homogenous colour is the first thing that draws one’s eyes towards it, and it has received the ‘Royal Blue’ colour grading by The Gübelin Gem Lab, which is the most sought-after colour grade awarded to blue sapphires in the trade.
The Gübelin Gem Lab is known for applying the most rigorous and stringent standards in all its work, which also applies to the use of trade colour terms. For a stone to qualify for such a term, it must fulfil all the respective criteria.
For a sapphire to qualify for the term ‘Royal Blue’, the colour must be an intense, saturated and homogeneous blue. In terms of quality, ‘Royal Blue’ will only be awarded to sapphires that exhibit fine qualities and are free from treatments. Furthermore, they must be relatively free of eye-visible or dark inclusions, and they must show a homogeneous colour distribution with vivid internal reflections.
PROMISE OF THE FINEST GEMS
The House of Bulgari is known among aficionados for their selection of the best coloured gemstones. The quest to uncover nature’s rarest treasures is nothing short of assiduous efforts and true passion. Such extraordinary finds always leave a lasting impression and evoke deep connection with its beholder.
Bulgari High Jewellery Collection only accepts gemstones of near perfection, like this Sri Lankan sapphire which scored an impossible 98 points in Gübelin Gemstone Rating. This Rating carefully assesses the quality, rarity and salience of a specific gemstone. This very sapphire was awarded 98 out of 100 Gübelin Points, which places it on the highest ‘Exceptional’ grade.
BIRTH OF A SAPPHIRE
Based on the presence of tiny zircon inclusions present at the surface of this sapphire, Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF experts were able to carry out radiometric age dating for this magnificent sapphire. The analyses of the inclusions within the sapphire reveal an approximate age of 540 million years. This calculated age is well in agreement with the age of sapphire formation found in Sri Lanka, which further supports the Institute’s opinion of its origin.
DESIGN OF A MASTERPIECE
Some of the most iconic creations from The House of Bulgari are marked by contrasting colours against the brightness of yellow gold. However, in the 2000s, as the House progressed towards a more two-dimensional design approach, platinum and white gold made a comeback, and jewellery mounted in white metal emanated magnificence that resonated with opulence in the 1950s, especially those from the High Jewellery Collection.
Contrary to more colourful creations that incorporated gemstones of various cutting styles and shapes, this necklace assumes absolute symmetry that reminds us of classic noble and royal jewels. Centring on a single coloured gemstone of impressive size, the diamond-set necklace employs stone arrangement that is found in earlier works from the thirties to the fifties. Each circular link is formed by carefully selected tapered baguette diamonds instead of brilliant-cut diamonds, connected by pear-shaped diamonds at their points to afford lightness of an otherwise substantial necklace.
During 2022 Cannes Film Festival, award-winning American actress Anne Hathaway was adorned by an important sapphire necklace from Bulgari on the red carpet, which bears close resemblance to this magnificent necklace on offer. While the more recent work has an ornamental naturalistic overtone, this necklace evokes unostentatious elegance with a classic approach.
The repeating circular links are typical of Bulgari’s ‘modulo’ jewellery designs, where a single element is produced in series and then connected to each other. The Parentesi Collection, inspired by details of the Eternal City pavements, is one of the House’s most successful modular designs.
CONCLUSION
This necklace’s clean and sleek lines, elegant geometry, and the unusual horizontal setting of the superb and impressive Sri Lankan sapphire are all elements that afford this necklace a timeless modern appeal. It is a work of art that embodies a miraculous and singular occurrence in nature, savoir-faire from an illustrious Italian maison, and the utmost caliber of rare gemstone collection.
Composed of circular links set with tapered baguette diamonds, alternating with pear-shaped diamonds, the centre set with a brilliant-cut stone weighing 2.00 carats, supporting a cushion-shaped sapphire horizontally-set weighing 118.35 carats, circular links and pear-shaped diamonds, mounted in platinum and white gold, signed Bulgari, length approximately 410mm, case stamped Bulgari.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 126610, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating; together with an appendix letter and a letter of datation.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 23010210, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of thermal enhancement, ‘royal blue’ colour; together with an appendix letter and a gemstone rating card of 98 points and mentioning the exceptionality of the stone.
Accompanied by five GIA reports stating that the diamonds weighing from 2.00 to 2.70 carats range from D to G Colour, Internally Flawless to VS2 Clarity.
Accompanied by a Bulgari Gem Report.
附瑞士SSEF, 瑞士Gübelin, 五張美國GIA證書及寶格麗寶石證書
(Please note that the GIA reports are more than 10 years old and may require an update)
'The described sapphire exhibits a highly impressive size and weight of 118.353 ct, combined with an attractive blue colour and a fine purity... In addition to these qualities, this sapphire has been spared exposure to heat treatment and its clarity and colour are thus entirely natural. A natural sapphire from Ceylon of this size and quality can be considered rare and exceptional'. Extract from the SSEF appendix letter.
'The natural sapphire of 118.35 ct described in the above mentioned Gübelin Gem Lab Report possesses a richly saturated and homogenous colour, combined with a high degree of transparency. Such a combination of characteristics is rare in natural sapphires of this size'. Extract from the Gübelin appendix letter.
Artist Biography
Bulgari
Italian
Originally from Kalarites, Greece, Sotirios Voulgaris emigrated to Rome because of Greece's rising poverty and difficulty separating from the Ottoman Empire. He set foot on Italian soil in 1880 with little money in his pocket and spent the next four years preparing what would go on to become Italy's oldest jewelry company.
In 1884, Bulgari opened its doors to the Italian people with its offering of jewelry and accessories. Bulgari's style takes from traditions in Greek and Roman craftsmanship to elegantly balance volume and subtlety. Later, in the late 1960s, Bulgari bridged classicism and modernity by introducing its seductive, now-iconic Serpenti collection of snake-shaped coil bracelets and watches. It is through its meticulous combination of influences that Bulgari has garnered an international and loyal high-profile clientele, which included Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn. These Hollywood stars have immortalized the house's unique gem-adorned bracelets, necklaces and earrings in rounded forms.
Property of an Important Private Collection
✱578
Exceptional and Impressive Sapphire and Diamond Necklace, 2004
Composed of circular links set with tapered baguette diamonds, alternating with pear-shaped diamonds, the centre set with a brilliant-cut stone weighing 2.00 carats, supporting a cushion-shaped sapphire horizontally-set weighing 118.35 carats, circular links and pear-shaped diamonds, mounted in platinum and white gold, signed Bulgari, length approximately 410mm, case stamped Bulgari.
Accompanied by SSEF report no. 126610, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating; together with an appendix letter and a letter of datation.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 23010210, stating that the sapphire is of Ceylon origin, with no indications of thermal enhancement, ‘royal blue’ colour; together with an appendix letter and a gemstone rating card of 98 points and mentioning the exceptionality of the stone.
Accompanied by five GIA reports stating that the diamonds weighing from 2.00 to 2.70 carats range from D to G Colour, Internally Flawless to VS2 Clarity.
Accompanied by a Bulgari Gem Report.
附瑞士SSEF, 瑞士Gübelin, 五張美國GIA證書及寶格麗寶石證書
(Please note that the GIA reports are more than 10 years old and may require an update)
'The described sapphire exhibits a highly impressive size and weight of 118.353 ct, combined with an attractive blue colour and a fine purity... In addition to these qualities, this sapphire has been spared exposure to heat treatment and its clarity and colour are thus entirely natural. A natural sapphire from Ceylon of this size and quality can be considered rare and exceptional'. Extract from the SSEF appendix letter.
'The natural sapphire of 118.35 ct described in the above mentioned Gübelin Gem Lab Report possesses a richly saturated and homogenous colour, combined with a high degree of transparency. Such a combination of characteristics is rare in natural sapphires of this size'. Extract from the Gübelin appendix letter.
Estimate
HK$24,000,000 - 35,000,000
$3,050,000-4,500,000
Sold for HK$26,828,000
Charlene Lau
Head of Jewels, Hong Kong
+852 2318 2039
JewelleryHK@phillips.com
Jewels & Jadeite
Hong Kong Auction 23 May 2023
501No Reserve
Van Cleef & Arpels
Gold, Diamond and Ruby Brooch, 1970s
Estimate HK$50,000 - 80,000 •
Sold for HK$48,260
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502
Cartier
Gold and Diamond Ring, 'Cactus de Cartier'
Estimate HK$55,000 - 80,000
Sold for HK$69,850
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503No Reserve
Gold Pill Box
Estimate HK$16,000 - 25,000 •
Sold for HK$21,590
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504No Reserve
Chanel
Gold, Yellow Sapphire and Diamond Brooch
Estimate HK$40,000 - 65,000 •
Sold for HK$53,340
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505No Reserve
Pair of Gem Set and Diamond Ear Pendants
Estimate HK$40,000 - 65,000 •
Sold for HK$40,640
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506No Reserve
Carnet
Pair of Pink Sapphire, Diamond and Black Diamond Brooches
Estimate HK$40,000 - 65,000 •
Sold for HK$21,590
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507No Reserve
Cartier
Lady's White Gold and Diamond Wristatch, 'Tank Divan'
Estimate HK$40,000 - 65,000 •
Sold for HK$69,850
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508No Reserve
Alexander Laut
Paraíba Tourmaline and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$120,000 - 200,000 •
Sold for HK$152,400
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509
Van Cleef & Arpels
Carnelian Demi-Parure, 'Alhambra'
Estimate HK$95,000 - 150,000
Sold for HK$165,100
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510No Reserve
JAR
Pair of Painted Silver, Pink Gold and Enamel Ear Clips, 'Pink Almond'
Estimate HK$32,000 - 48,000 •
Sold for HK$57,150
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511
Van Cleef & Arpels
Gold, Ruby and Diamond Brooch
Estimate HK$48,000 - 65,000
Sold for HK$95,250
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512No Reserve
Chanel
Gold and Diamond Demi-Parure, 'Camellia'
Estimate HK$95,000 - 150,000 •
Sold for HK$114,300
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513
JAR
Pair of Tiger's Eye Ear Clips, 'Fan'
Estimate HK$48,000 - 65,000
Sold for HK$60,960
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514
JAR
Pair of Aluminium, Titanium and Pink Gold Ear Clips, 'Hydrangea'
Estimate HK$95,000 - 140,000
Sold for HK$165,100
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515
Cartier
Diamond, Emerald and Onyx Ring, 'Panthère'; and a Diamond Ring, 'Panthère Griffe'
Estimate HK$55,000 - 70,000
Sold for HK$139,700
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516
Cartier
Lady's White Gold and Diamond Wristwatch, 'Callison De Cartier', Ref. 2908
Estimate HK$50,000 - 65,000
Sold for HK$107,950
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517
Cartier
Lady's White gold and Diamond Wristwatch, 'Tortue', Ref. 2644
Estimate HK$65,000 - 95,000
Sold for HK$101,600
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518No Reserve
Pink Tourmaline and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$25,000 - 40,000 •
Sold for HK$34,290
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519
Van Cleef & Arpels
Gold, Lapis Lazuli and Cultured Pearl Bracelet, 'Twist'
Estimate HK$40,000 - 65,000
Sold for HK$48,260
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520
Cartier
Lady's Gold and Diamond Wristwatch, 'La Dona', Ref. 2903
Estimate HK$65,000 - 95,000
Sold for HK$88,900
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521No Reserve
Two Cultured Pearl Necklaces
Estimate HK$95,000 - 160,000 •
Sold for HK$44,450
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522
Chavana
Diamond and Gem Set Brooch
Estimate HK$55,000 - 80,000
Sold for HK$76,200
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523No Reserve
Ruby and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$250,000 - 400,000 •
Sold for HK$241,300
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524
Emerald and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$90,000 - 120,000
Sold for HK$127,000
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525
Cartier
Lady's White gold and Diamond Wristwatch, 'Ballon Blanc', Ref. 3721
Estimate HK$65,000 - 95,000
Sold for HK$101,600
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526
Pair of Diamond Ear Studs
Estimate HK$350,000 - 480,000
Sold for HK$685,800
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527
Diamond Rivière Necklace
Estimate HK$95,000 - 180,000
Sold for HK$152,400
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528
Diamond Bangle
Estimate HK$280,000 - 450,000
Sold for HK$292,100
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529No Reserve
Tanzanite and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$100,000 - 150,000 •
Sold for HK$88,900
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530
Hermes
White Gold Wristwatch with Mother-of-Pearl Dial and Enamel Miniature Painting, 'Slim d’Hermès Mountain Zebra', Numbered 6 of a Limited Edition of 24 Pieces
Estimate HK$80,000 - 150,000
Sold for HK$292,100
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531
Paraíba Tourmaline and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$40,000 - 65,000
Sold for HK$82,550
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532
Chopard
Pink Sapphire and Diamond Ring, 'So Happy Diamonds'
Estimate HK$95,000 - 150,000
Sold for HK$114,300
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533
Van Cleef & Arpels
Pair of Gold and Diamond Ear Clips, 'Ludo', 1930s
Estimate HK$48,000 - 65,000
Sold for HK$76,200
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534
Cartier
Gold and Diamond Parure, 'Bamboo'
Estimate HK$180,000 - 280,000
Sold for HK$203,200
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535
Star Sapphire, Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$120,000 - 220,000
Sold for HK$139,700
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536
Fire Opal and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$45,000 - 65,000
Sold for HK$82,550
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537
Cartier
Ruby and Diamond Necklace
Estimate HK$1,300,000 - 1,800,000
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538
Cartier
Lady's Gold and Diamond Wristwatch, 'Vendôme'
Estimate HK$60,000 - 90,000
Sold for HK$107,950
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539
Cartier
Gold and Diamond Necklace, 'Maillon Panthère'
Estimate HK$320,000 - 480,000
Sold for HK$482,600
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540
Van Cleef & Arpels
Pair of Gold and Diamond Earrings
Estimate HK$40,000 - 65,000
Sold for HK$101,600
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541
Van Cleef & Arpels
Emerald and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$250,000 - 320,000
Sold for HK$330,200
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542
Van Cleef & Arpels
Malachite and Diamond Bracelet, 'Alhambra'
Estimate HK$48,000 - 65,000
Sold for HK$82,550
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543
Van Cleef & Arpels
Emerald and Diamond Ring, 1962
Estimate HK$120,000 - 200,000
Sold for HK$203,200
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544
Diamond Choker Necklace
Estimate HK$350,000 - 500,000
Sold for HK$393,700
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545
Cartier
Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet
Estimate HK$320,000 - 480,000
Sold for HK$393,700
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546
Lavender Jadeite Bangle
Estimate HK$50,000 - 80,000
Sold for HK$57,150
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547
Lavender Jadeite and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$80,000 - 120,000
Sold for HK$95,250
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548
Rhodolite Garnet, Tsavorite Garnet, Ruby and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$60,000 - 80,000
Sold for HK$63,500
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549
Alexander Laut
Pink Spinel and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$80,000 - 120,000
Sold for HK$57,150
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550
Rolex
Lady's White gold and Diamond Ring Watch
Estimate HK$160,000 - 250,000
Sold for HK$152,400
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551
Antique Diamond and Pearl Tiara /Brooches, circa 1880
Estimate HK$160,000 - 250,000
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552
Art Deco Enamel and Diamond Lorgnette / Pendent Necklace
Estimate HK$40,000 - 65,000
Sold for HK$53,340
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553
Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet
Estimate HK$280,000 - 380,000
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554
Fancy Light Yellow Diamond and Diamond Brooch
Estimate HK$140,000 - 280,000
Sold for HK$152,400
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555
Diamond Bracelet
Estimate HK$550,000 - 800,000
Sold for HK$939,800
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556
Pair of Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond and Diamond Earrings
Estimate HK$320,000 - 480,000
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557
Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond and Emerald Ring
Estimate HK$400,000 - 650,000
Sold for HK$444,500
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558
Red Spinel and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$90,000 - 120,000
Sold for HK$317,500
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559
Colour-Change Star Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$180,000 - 280,000
Sold for HK$203,200
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560
Van Cleef & Arpels
Turquoise Demi-Parure, 'Alhambra'
Estimate HK$95,000 - 150,000
Sold for HK$355,600
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561
Bulgari
Diamond Bracelet, 'Serpenti Viper'
Estimate HK$160,000 - 260,000
Sold for HK$215,900
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562
Alexander Laut
Paraiba Tourmaline and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$140,000 - 220,000
Sold for HK$254,000
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563
Alexander Laut
Purple Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$95,000 - 140,000
Sold for HK$152,400
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564
Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$750,000 - 950,000
Sold for HK$762,000
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565
Fancy Green-Blue Diamond and Diamond Ring/ Pendant
Estimate HK$2,400,000 - 3,500,000
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566No Reserve
Paolo Costagli
Morganite, Orange Tourmaline and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$32,000 - 48,000 •
Sold for HK$22,860
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567
Pair of Icy Jadeite Bangles
Estimate HK$120,000 - 180,000
Sold for HK$127,000
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568No Reserve
Yellow Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$32,000 - 48,000 •
Sold for HK$38,100
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569No Reserve
Jadeite and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$80,000 - 120,000 •
Sold for HK$146,050
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570
Ruby and Diamond Bracelet
Estimate HK$680,000 - 950,000
Sold for HK$1,524,000
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571
Chavana
Pair of Diamond Earrings, 'Ray of Light'
Estimate HK$100,000 - 200,000
Sold for HK$127,000
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572
Diamond Bangle
Estimate HK$220,000 - 380,000
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573
Padparadscha Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$430,000 - 600,000
Sold for HK$787,400
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574
Alexandrite and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$160,000 - 250,000
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575
Chanel
Diamond and Onyx Brooch, 'Camellia'
Estimate HK$220,000 - 320,000
Sold for HK$330,200
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576
Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$650,000 - 950,000
Sold for HK$1,016,000
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577
Pair of Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond and Diamond Earrings
Estimate HK$1,300,000 - 1,800,000
Sold for HK$2,032,000
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578
Bulgari
Exceptional and Impressive Sapphire and Diamond Necklace, 2004
Estimate HK$24,000,000 - 35,000,000
Sold for HK$26,828,000
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579No Reserve
Cartier
Gold and Diamond Brooch, circa 1950
Estimate HK$50,000 - 80,000 •
Sold for HK$88,900
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580
Cartier
Gold, Diamond, Emerald and Onyx Necklace, 'Maillon Panthère'
Estimate HK$400,000 - 650,000
Sold for HK$609,600
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581No Reserve
Fancy Brown-Greenish Yellow Diamond, Coloured Diamond and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$140,000 - 220,000 •
Sold for HK$95,250
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582
Cartier
Tri-Coloured Gold and Diamond Bangle, 'Trinity'
Estimate HK$250,000 - 400,000
Sold for HK$279,400
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583
Buccellati
Gold and Diamond Brooch
Estimate HK$65,000 - 95,000
Sold for HK$95,250
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584
Buccellati
Diamond Bracelet
Estimate HK$180,000 - 280,000
Sold for HK$228,600
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585No Reserve
Red Spinel and Diamond Bracelet
Estimate HK$50,000 - 80,000 •
Sold for HK$101,600
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586
John Rubel
Pink Sapphire, Black Diamond, Diamond and Sapphire Ring
Estimate HK$140,000 - 200,000
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587
Emerald and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$55,000 - 80,000
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588No Reserve
Blue Spinel and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$220,000 - 360,000 •
Sold for HK$107,950
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589
Pair of Ruby and Diamond Ear Pendants
Estimate HK$850,000 - 1,200,000
Sold for HK$952,500
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590
Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$220,000 - 320,000
Sold for HK$228,600
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591
Diamond, Ruby and Onyx Bracelet, 1920s
Estimate HK$700,000 - 900,000
Sold for HK$825,500
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592
Pink Spinel and Diamond Pendent Necklace
Estimate HK$250,000 - 350,000
Sold for HK$292,100
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593
Cartier
Pair of Gem Set, Diamond and Rock Crystal Brooches, 'Tutti Frutti', 1920s
Estimate HK$480,000 - 680,000
Sold for HK$698,500
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594
Pair of Ruby and Diamond Earrings
Estimate HK$500,000 - 680,000
Sold for HK$444,500
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595
Ruby and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$1,900,000 - 2,800,000
Sold for HK$3,048,000
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596
Bulgari
Sapphire and Diamond Brooch
Estimate HK$95,000 - 140,000
Sold for HK$107,950
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597
Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.
Sapphire and Diamond Ring
Estimate HK$2,000,000 - 2,800,000
Sold for HK$3,302,000
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598
Van Cleef & Arpels
Pink Gold, Pink Sapphire and Diamond Necklace, 'Zip'
Estimate HK$1,200,000 - 2,000,000
Sold for HK$3,302,000
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