Audemars Piguet - WINNING ICONS – Legendary Watches of the 20th Century New York Thursday, October 26, 2017 | Phillips

Create your first list.

Select an existing list or create a new list to share and manage lots you follow.

  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1972
    Reference No: 5402 ST
    Movement No: 141’106
    Case No: 67’614, A614
    Model Name: Royal Oak ‘A Series’
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max. length 180mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet folding deployant clasp stamped GF 1.72
    Dimensions: 39mm diameter

  • Catalogue Essay

    Royal Oak, Nautilus, and 222: three model names instantly recognizable to any watch collector, and three iconic models that revolutionized haute horologie during the turbulent 1970s. Launched in 1972, the Royal Oak was the world’s first stainless steel luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet. Designed overnight in response to an urgent request for an ‘unprecedented steel watch’, it was at the same time the most expensive stainless steel watch ever made. Today the Royal Oak is a legend, accounting for over 70% of the brand’s sales. The brand sought famed designer Gerald Genta, who developed a brilliantly engineered, monoblock case, with a distinctively maritime feel, featuring an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal, white gold screws, and a dial with tapisserie motif. The ‘A’ series Royal Oak models feature the distinctive ‘AP’ logo positioned at 6 o’clock, with later models having the brand logo at the 12 o’clock position. This lovely A-series Royal Oak from 1972, number A614, is a charismatic example. Its “Jumbo”, 39 mm case diameter provides outstanding wrist presence, whilst its original Gay Frères bracelet remains taut and wonderfully preserved. The case is in excellent overall condition, and the dial is beginning to transform from its original grey tone to a warm and pleasing brownish hue, as the center portion begins to fade from age. The Royal Oak is an icon within the world of horology. It’s history as the first modern luxury sports watch, along with its timeless aesthetic, makes it a superb choice for the connoisseur.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

    View More Works


Ref. 5402 ST
A very rare and highly attractive stainless steel wristwatch with date aperture, ‘tropical’ dial and integrated bracelet.

Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
39mm diameter

$20,000 - 40,000 

Sold for $57,500

Contact Specialist
Paul Boutros
Head of Watches, Americas
+1 212 940 1293

WINNING ICONS – Legendary Watches of the 20th Century

New York Auction 26 October 2017