Audemars Piguet - The Geneva Watch Auction: XII Geneva Saturday, November 7, 2020 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: Circa 1978
    Reference No: 5402ST
    Movement No: 198'395
    Case No: D 1085 and B28872
    Model Name: Royal Oak "D Series"
    Material: Stainless steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 200mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet Authenticity and Exclusivity Certificate and service invoice.

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Audemars Piguet reference 5402 better known as the “Jumbo” Royal Oak is undoubtedly one of the most coveted watches on the market especially if the watch is part of the “A Series” meaning it was part of the first batch of watches produced.

    However, whereas the A series gets most of the attention a much more elusive version exists and which very rarely appears on the market, the reference 5402 “D Series” like the present model.

    When the Royal Oak was launched in 1972 it created a genre unknown to the market: the luxury sports watch, and its design (from the genius pen stroke of Gerald Genta) has become iconic.

    The reference 5402 was made in 4 batches: A, B, C and D with small design details that made each subtly different. The “D Series” harbors all the design elements that collectors have come to love about the reference 5402 such as the large 39mm slim case, tapisserie dial and unmistakable bracelet, however upon closer inspection one can notice that the clasp is stamped AP and not Audemars Piguet as found on the A and B Series. However, what sets the watch truly apart is the dial, the AP logo is at 12 o’clock whereas in the A, B and majority of C Series the AP logo is at 6 o’clock.

    Finally, according to scholarship the D series is the rarest of the reference 5402 as it is believed that less than 1000 were made.

    A “D Series” rarely graces the international auction market, the present example in overall very appealing condition with a strong case and crisp dial offers an unmissable opportunity to acquire one of the rarest versions of the original Royal Oak.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 5402ST
A highly rare and well-preserved stainless steel wristwatch with date and bracelet

Circa 1978
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

CHF30,000 - 50,000 

Sold for CHF88,200

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

41 79 637 1724

The Geneva Watch Auction: XII

Geneva Auction 6 - 7 November 2020