Audemars Piguet - The Geneva Watch Auction: XVII Geneva Saturday, May 13, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1980
    Reference No: 5402BA
    Movement No: 197'593
    Case No: B34'715 caseback further stamped N°389
    Model Name: Royal Oak
    Material: 18K yellow gold
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2121, 36 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: 18K yellow gold Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 185mm
    Clasp/Buckle: 18K white gold Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
    Accessories: Accompanied by Audemars Piguet pouch

  • Catalogue Essay

    The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 5402 was originally introduced at Basel Fair in 1972. Revolutionary and disruptive, the Royal Oak redefined the meaning of luxury timepiece with the use of stainless steel. Envisioned by the famed designer Gerald Genta, the timepiece was brilliantly engineered. Featuring a monobloc case with a distinctively maritime feel, an octagonal bezel secured by eight hexagonal, white gold screws, and a dial with tapisserie motif. Simple yet lean and sporty the Royal Oak was set to become and has proven to be a design icon.

    In 1977, the model was made available for the first time in precious materials: yellow gold, white gold and two-tone. The reference 5402BA in yellow gold, like the present example, was produced in a total of 736 units, sold between 1977 and 1980. Made available in several dial variants, the present timepiece showcases a beautiful grey dial and champagne date disc. The beautiful contrast of colours further elevate the refinement this timepiece exudes. To add rarity to an already extremely beautiful timepiece, a grand total of 736 examples of reference 5402BA where produced that being less than half of the total production of 5402 steel A-series.

    Cased at 39mm in diameter, the timepiece sits extremely comfortably on the wrist with a pleasant heftiness coming from the yellow gold case and bracelet. The dial has developed a slight evened-out oxidation giving an optical illusion of being yellow under a certain light. The date wheel has aged into a warm yellow which accents the whole affair beautifully.


    In excellent overall condition, the present Audemars Piguet reference 5402BA is a rare and seldom opportunity for the astute collector to acquire a significant and historically important model from the Royal Oak collection.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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Ref. 5402BA
An attractive and elegant yellow gold wristwatch with date and bracelet

1980
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF60,000 - 100,000 
€62,500-104,000
$68,500-114,000

Sold for CHF107,950

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
AGhotbi@phillips.com

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88
TiffanyTo@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: XVII

Geneva Auction 13 - 14 May 2023