Audemars Piguet - The Geneva Watch Auction: XVII Geneva Saturday, May 13, 2023 | Phillips

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  • Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
    Year: 1994
    Reference No: 25654ST
    Movement No: 374017
    Case No: D'40578, and No. 939
    Model Name: Royal Oak Perpetual calendar
    Material: Stainless Steel
    Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2120/2800, 38 jewels
    Bracelet/Strap: Stainless Steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 205mm
    Clasp/Buckle: Stainless Steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp
    Dimensions: 39mm Diameter
    Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

  • Catalogue Essay

    Officially launched in 1987 and produced until 1998, the Audemars Piguet reference 25654ST replaced the first Royal Oak Perpetual calendar reference 25554. Produced in 315 pieces in steel, 430 pieces in yellow gold, 68 pieces in steel and yellow gold and 38 in platinum, it differs from its sibling thanks to a slightly thicker case thickness (8.25mm vs the 7.5mm of ref. 25554) meant to improve its water resistance capabilities.

    Inside, the timepiece is powered by the workhorse caliber 2120/2800. Developed in 1977, the movement was the world’s slimmest perpetual calendar movement with a thickness of only 3.95mm. After years of finalization, finally in 1982 the Royal Oak took the horological world by surprise, yet again, with the launch of its perpetual calendar model.

    Fitted with a superb and discrete sandblasted matte grey dial, its colour echoes the colour of the steel case and bezel. Tone matching throughout, what truly stands out is the blue starry sky and golden moon of the moon phase indicator at six o'clock.

    While merely a portion of the brand's path to its current level of success, the Royal Oak perpetual calendar unquestionably increased the visibility of Audemars Piguet throughout the 80's and 90's and set the stage for the Royal Oak's present ascension.

    The present Audemars Piguet reference 25654ST is therefore certainly a must have for any Royal Oak collector: made in only 315 pieces in steel and in excellent overall condition of both case and dial, this timepiece will not fail to satisfy the horological needs of the most demanding Royal Oak collectors.

  • Artist Biography

    Audemars Piguet

    Swiss • 1881

    A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.

    Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.

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192

Ref. 25654ST
An extremely well-preserved, rare and attractive stainless steel perpetual calendar wristwatch with moon phases and bracelet

1994
39mm Diameter
Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed

Estimate
CHF70,000 - 140,000 
€72,900-146,000
$80,000-160,000

Sold for CHF139,700

Contact Specialist

Alexandre Ghotbi
Head of Watches, Continental Europe and the Middle East

+41 79 637 17 24
AGhotbi@phillips.com

Tiffany To
Head of Sale, Geneva

+41 79 460 55 88
TiffanyTo@phillips.com

The Geneva Watch Auction: XVII

Geneva Auction 13 - 14 May 2023