Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet Year: 1994 Reference No: 25654ST Movement No: 374017 Case No: D'40578, and No. 939 Model Name: Royal Oak Perpetual calendar Material: Stainless Steel Calibre: Automatic, cal. 2120/2800, 38 jewels Bracelet/Strap: Stainless Steel Audemars Piguet bracelet, max length 205mm Clasp/Buckle: Stainless Steel Audemars Piguet deployant clasp Dimensions: 39mm Diameter Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Catalogue Essay
Officially launched in 1987 and produced until 1998, the Audemars Piguet reference 25654ST replaced the first Royal Oak Perpetual calendar reference 25554. Produced in 315 pieces in steel, 430 pieces in yellow gold, 68 pieces in steel and yellow gold and 38 in platinum, it differs from its sibling thanks to a slightly thicker case thickness (8.25mm vs the 7.5mm of ref. 25554) meant to improve its water resistance capabilities.
Inside, the timepiece is powered by the workhorse caliber 2120/2800. Developed in 1977, the movement was the world’s slimmest perpetual calendar movement with a thickness of only 3.95mm. After years of finalization, finally in 1982 the Royal Oak took the horological world by surprise, yet again, with the launch of its perpetual calendar model.
Fitted with a superb and discrete sandblasted matte grey dial, its colour echoes the colour of the steel case and bezel. Tone matching throughout, what truly stands out is the blue starry sky and golden moon of the moon phase indicator at six o'clock.
While merely a portion of the brand's path to its current level of success, the Royal Oak perpetual calendar unquestionably increased the visibility of Audemars Piguet throughout the 80's and 90's and set the stage for the Royal Oak's present ascension.
The present Audemars Piguet reference 25654ST is therefore certainly a must have for any Royal Oak collector: made in only 315 pieces in steel and in excellent overall condition of both case and dial, this timepiece will not fail to satisfy the horological needs of the most demanding Royal Oak collectors.
A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established in 1881, Audemars Piguet never ceases to impress with a rich history of creating bold, even audacious, timepieces underpinned by traditional watchmaking at its finest. This Le Brassus-based Swiss manufacturer is one of only two major manufacturers still owned by the founding family. Since its earliest days, AP is considered a leader in the field of minute repeaters and grande complication pocket and wristwatches. The brand is devoted to preserving the history of watchmaking in the Vallée de Joux, showcased at their superb museum in Le Brassus.
Today, the brand is best known for its Royal Oak models, a revolutionary luxury sports watch launched in 1972. Other key models include early minute repeating wristwatches, vintage chronograph wristwatches, such as the oversized reference 5020, perpetual calendar watches and the Royal Oak Offshore, first introduced in 1993.