A Rare Cultured Pearl and Diamond 'Flower and Berries' Brooch, Suzanne Belperron, Circa Mid-20th Century

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  • Condition Report

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    • Foliate motifs set with numerous old-cut diamonds, together approximately 10.00 carats

    • Accented by three cultured pearls, diameter approximately 8.25 to 7.25mm each

    • Platinum and 18 karat white gold

    • Unsigned

    With a Belperron Certificate, numbered B50509282015, dated 28 September 2015.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Suzanne Belperron may not be a household name in the auction world just yet, but seasoned jewellery collectors would jump on any opportunity to acquire a piece of her original works.
    Recognized as one of the few important 20th century female jewellery designers, Madame Belperron began working as a designer for Maison René Boivin Paris in 1919 and was co-directress in 1932 when she left to design exclusively for B. Herz. As a true pioneer of her time, she dismissed the ubiquity of Art Deco designs and introduced new forms and volumes to the world of jewellery. Materials such as chalcedony and hardstones were carved to fit daring designs, defying aesthetic beliefs of that era. It is the sparing extravagance that made her works immediately recognizable, yet Madame Belperron never signed her piece, claiming that ‘my style is my signature’. This fact, however, did not stop people from amassing her works which were ground-breaking at the time they were made and are still hauntingly modern till this very day.
    Madame Belperron built a loyal following from royal family members to fashion designers, bankers to writers. Karl Lagerfeld described her work as having ‘a humble splendour’ and declared that he loved ‘the magic equilibrium in everything she designed.’ This brooch is one of her most iconic floral design with succulent leaves decorated by ‘berries’ which she revisited at various stages of her career.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Suzanne Belperron在珠寶拍賣界可能還稱不上是家傳戶曉的品牌,但在珠寶收藏的圏子內卻是響噹噹的大人物,藏家紦對不會放過任何一個收藏其作品的機會。
    Belperron是二十世紀中極少數的重要女性珠寶設計師之一,於1919年開始於René Boivin擔任設計師,五年後晉升為聯席總監,1932年離職轉投B. Herz成為獨家設計師。Belperron很早期就摒棄了Art Deco的風格,改以誇張的形狀和立體感突出的設計闖出自己的一片天。她不嗇以特別切割的玉髓和水晶等寶石來鑲嵌珠寶,設計之前衞與當時的美學標準可謂大相逕庭。Belperron的設計在奢華中帶有自律性的保留,十分有標誌性,但是設計師本人卻從來不在作品上簽名,因為她深信「我的風格就是我的簽名。」這點卻無阻藏家收集她所創作的珠寶。這些作品當年破格創新,時至今日依然十分富時代感,堪稱不朽經典。她的客人包括皇室貴族、時裝設計師,也有銀行家和作家。已故香奈兒創意總監「老佛爺」卡爾拉格斐也是Belperron的忠實追隨者,曾以「謙卑的華麗」來形容其作品,又指出自己最愛「她每一件作品所展現的美妙平衡」。此別針所描繪的是果實纍纍和飽滿的葉子,Belperron在其設計的生涯不同時期利用各種寶石演繹此題材,十分有標誌性。

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A Rare Cultured Pearl and Diamond 'Flower and Berries' Brooch, Suzanne Belperron, Circa Mid-20th Century

養殖珍珠配鑽石「花與果實」別針, Suzanne Belperron, 約二十世紀中期

Estimate
HK$280,000 - 380,000 
$36,000-48,000

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist
Terry Chu
Head of Jewellery, Asia, Senior Director
+852 2318 2038

Jewels and Jadeite

Hong Kong Auction 27 May 2019