A Unique Art Deco Gem-set and Diamond Sautoir Necklace, Mauboussin, Circa 1929

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  • Condition Report

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    • Necklace set with twelve carved rubies, highlighted by fluted emerald beads and multi-coloured gemstones, with diamond-set links

    • Giardinetto-style pendant set with diamonds, two carved rubies, two carved sapphires and a fluted emerald bead
      Circular and baguette diamonds altogether approximately 16.00 carats

    • Platinum

    • French made, with platinum marks

    • Pendant with brooch fitting
      Necklace separated to form four individual bracelets

    • Mauboussin, unsigned

    • Necklace maximum length approximately 700mm
      Bracelets length approximately 170 to 175mm each

    With a Mauboussin fitted box, Certificate of Authenticity from Mauboussin, necklace and pendant dated 13 and 29 March 1929 respectively in archive.

  • Catalogue Essay

    Historical events and technology advancement were among the prominent factors that shaped how jewellery were designed and perceived in the 20th century. Emancipation brought about a radical change in women fashion after the First World War which led to new ideas for adornments, jewellery included.
    For Mauboussin, a French Maison established in late 19th century that developed into a respectable operation with salons in Paris, New York, London, as well as Buenos Aires, the 1920’s was deniably the most important chapter in its history. During that time, the number of staffs went from 38 to 152 within a short seven years, and Mauboussin was awarded a major prize at the French Exhibition in New York in 1924, followed by a gold medal at the 1925 Exposition des Art Décoratifs in Paris.
    Jewellery created by Mauboussin in this era is undeniably the most collectible, and this very necklace presents all the attributes characteristic of jewellery from that period. The planar geometry is unmistakably Art Deco, the use of carved coloured gemstones in the form of foliate motifs and fluted beads exudes exoticism and fascination with the Far East; the pendant of giardinetto motif testifies to the resurgence of the 17th century design in the 1920’s. In addition, sleeveless gowns with low waistline and boyish haircuts championed sautoir necklaces anchored by large pendants just like this one. Its versatility – the necklace is convertible to four bracelets – also reflects the lavish fashion of wearing multiple bracelets at that time.
    Preserved in its spectacular original condition, this necklace is a creation at the pinnacle of Mauboussin’s most glorious years and arguably one of the most collectible and precious.

  • Catalogue Essay

    無論是在設計或觀感形象上,二十世紀的珠寶都深深受到歷史事件和科技發展的影響。第一次世界大戰後女性取得一定程度的解放,帶動女士服裝極大的轉變,裝飾物的設計亦作出相應配合,促使珠寶進入裝飾藝術風格時期。
    對於創立於十九世紀的法國珠寶商Mauboussin而言,20年代絶對是在品牌逾百年歷史中最重要的一章。Mauboussin其時的業務發展蓬勃,在巴黎、紐約、倫敦,以至南美洲的布宜諾斯艾利斯都設有珠寶沙龍,員工的數目在短短七年更由38人增至152人。Mauboussin在1924年在紐約的法國展覽中奪得重要的大獎,一年後又於巴黎的博覽會中獲頒金獎,成就備受肯定。
    製於這個年代的Mauboussin珠寶尤其受到藏家的青睞,極具收藏價值。這條項鏈是Mauboussin於1929年打造的大師之作,世上獨一無二,充份反映出只屬於那個時代的設計想法:平面的幾何線條盡現裝飾藝術時期的簡約美、紅藍綠色的雕刻寶石訴說著西方對遠東文化的好奇和迷戀,而吊墜的「花藍」造型復興十七世紀義大利設計,亦屬於20年代的標誌性特徵。再者,當時流行腰線較低的無袖禮服,搭配長度及腰的項鏈,最底部會鑲嵌一個大型吊墜,這條項鏈就是絶佳的例子。它同時還可以被分拆成四條手鏈,完全配合當時將多條寛手鏈佩戴在一隻手腕上的時尚潮流。
    此拍品最難得之處是保存完整,歲月的痕跡沒有影響其魅力,反而令它倍添韻味。製於品牌最輝光的時期,造工一絲不苟,稱得上是Mauboussin最具收藏價值和最珍貴的寶物。

617

A Unique Art Deco Gem-set and Diamond Sautoir Necklace, Mauboussin, Circa 1929

Art Deco寶石配鑽石長項鏈, Mauboussin, 年份約1929

Estimate
HK$4,300,000 - 5,800,000 
$550,000-750,000

Place Advance Bid
Contact Specialist
Terry Chu
Head of Jewellery, Asia, Senior Director
+852 2318 2038

Jewels and Jadeite

Hong Kong Auction 27 May 2019