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Under the aegis of
\nMaître Tristan Reymond
\nHuissier Judiciaire
\n
\nHighlights Tour
\n
\n11 – 12 October
\nTaipei
\nMarriott Hotel Taipei, No. 199, Lequn 2nd Rd, Zhongshan District, Taipei City, Taiwan 10491
\nEnquiries: Cindy Yen
\nContact: taiwanoffice@phillips.com | +886-2-2758-5505
\n
\n15 – 18 October
\nParis
\nThe Bristol Paris, 112 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, France
\nEnquiries: Clara Rivollet
\nContact: crivollet@phillips.com | +33 6 42 09 97 39.
\n
\n17 – 20 October
\nSingapore
\nArtysen Singapore, 9 Cuscaden Road, Level 4, Singapore 249719
\nEnquiries: Cristel Tan
\nContact: cristeltan@phillips.com | +65 9155 1016
\n
\n27 – 29 October
\nNew York
\nPhillips, 432 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10022
\nEnquiries: Cristina Rodrigo
\nContact: crodrigo@phillips.com | +1 212 940 1240
\n
\n View Conditions of Sale >

\n","auctionDetailsSmall","Geneva Auction 11 November 2024","extraInfo","

Benoît Repellin
\nWorldwide Head of Jewellery
\nBRepellin@phillips.com
\n+41 79 313 6845
\n
\nLouisa Eyre-Jackson
\nSpecialist
\nLEyreJackson@phillips.com
\n+41 79 574 7713
\n
\nRoberta Belfer
\nAssociate Specialist
\nRBelfer@phillips.com
\n+41 79 522 92 78
\n
\nLara Tabbara
\nCataloguer
\nLTabbara@phillips.com
\n+41 22 317 96 74
\n
\nMary Higonnet
\nSenior Administrator
\nMHigonnet@phillips.com
\n+41 22 317 96 64

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Left: Pair of diamond earrings, 1950s. Estimate: CHF6,500–8,500 / US$8,000–10,000 and Monture Bulgari, Sapphire and diamond brooch/bangle combination.
\nRight: Monture Cartier, Citrine, turquoise and diamond necklace, circa 1960. Estimate: CHF85,000–130,000 / US$100,000–150,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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Perhaps style is the art of living well, which arguably couldn’t be done without the pleasures of great music. After all, both style and music are culture, and they go hand in hand. So, for creativity’s sake, join us on a journey through an imagined musical timeline featuring remarkable pieces on offer in the upcoming The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE on 11 November.

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1820s — Bel canto

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Spinel and diamond necklace, circa 1825. Estimate: CHF13,000–22,000 / US$15,000–25,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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This necklace’s intricate structure of hoop links forms a harmony akin to Rossini's underscoring of a Bel canto aria. We see the circular-cut diamonds as the gentle arpeggios of woodwinds against a bed of upper strings, and the cushion-shaped spinels as the delicate poise of an Italian bass line, interjecting at even measures for the perfect balance. But who is the soloist whose “beautiful voice” radiates a graceful legato melody above this accompaniment? Well, it’s the wearer of course.

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Property of an English Noble Family, this necklace was gifted by King George IV (1762–1830) to his mistress, Elizabeth Conyngham (née Denison), Marchioness Conyngham (1770–1861). One can only imagine the operas to which it was worn, but we think it would have been right at home at the English premiere of Vincenzo Bellini’s Norma.

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1910s — A night out at Carnegie

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Rock crystal, seed pearl and diamond necklace, circa 1910. Estimate: CHF12,000–19,000 / US$14,000–22,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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The early 1910s may have been the heyday of classical music in New York, and we can think of no better place to wear this remarkable necklace than a seat in the First Tier at Carnegie Hall, perhaps to hear Sergei Rachmaninoff perform his third piano concerto under the baton of Gustav Mahler in 1910, just one year before his death. Good taste is perennial, however, and we could just as easily imagine this necklace glistening in the audience today at a performance by Pulitzer Prize-winning composer Kendrick Lamar.

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1950s — Birth of the Cool

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Pair of diamond earrings, 1950s. Estimate: CHF6,500–8,500 / US$8,000–10,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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Just imagine how striking these earrings would have been in a New York jazz club on 52nd Street in the 1950s. We can almost hear a snare drum being nonchalantly caressed with a brush while a string bass rumbles mysteriously and the stage lights bounce off these baguette and brilliant-cut diamond tassels. Piano chords chime in and out between long tones from Miles Davis’ muted trumpet and the metallic surfaces in the club — from the drum rims to the ladies’ white gold jewelry, Miles’ trumpet, and the bartender’s cocktail shaker — all seem to resonate as the band heats up with the hardest, fastest, most complex jazz yet heard. Bebop had arrived, and style and elegance would never be the same.

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1960s — Blue Bossa

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Monture Cartier, Citrine, turquoise and diamond necklace, circa 1960. Estimate: CHF85,000–130,000 / US$100,000–150,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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Sophisticated, enticing, and adventurous, the way this necklace rests on the skin feels like the easy pulse of Bossa Nova. A distinctive statement piece designed by Cartier and formerly in the collection of the iconic French actress Marie Bell, the five step-cut citrines suspend from a gold cord and effortlessly dance against the wearer’s contours. We can see it now — glimpses of the citrines twinkling through cocktail glasses at a chic party while the gentle voice of João Gilberto sings to us in Portuguese, inviting us to sway to the rhythms coming from his guitar. To wear such a piece today brings that subtle vivacity of 1960s Bossa Nova into the 21st century, which we welcome. After all, we could all use a little Brazilian warmth in our lives.

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1980s — Never enough glam

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Van Cleef & Arpels, Ruby and diamond bracelet, 'Escurial', circa 1987. Estimate: CHF65,000–100,000 / US$80,000–120,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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Oh, to live through the zenith of glam and excess. 1987 was the year both Wall Street and American Psycho were released, Glam rock was in full force, MTV was inescapable, and our hair was unapologeticaly huge. Though much of the music and style of this time is remembered fondly, an equal amount is certainly best left in the ‘80s. Leave it to Van Cleef & Arpels to craft a bracelet in this era that met the day's tone without sacrificing a timeless allure — its openwork design a perfect showcase for the elegant setting of diamonds and rubies. Can’t you see it on the wrist of someone talking on a car phone in the back of a 1985 Mercedes Benz S-Class while Whitney Houston’s “I Wanna Dance with Somebody (Who Loves Me)” plays in the background? But it’s just as ready for anything you can throw at it today.

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1990s — When life’s an arena tour

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Bulgari, Gold necklace, 1990s. Estimate: CHF13,000–17,000 / US$15,000–20,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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And onward into the 1990s with the Queen of the Power Ballad. It’s so easy to imagine such an extravagantly elegant necklace gracing the neck of Céline Dion as she filled stadiums on her 1990s arena tours. But it would be no less effective in daily life as the casual chic trend of the day filled public spaces. As the ‘90s get further away from us, we revisit the look and sound of the era with fresh eyes, and much of the style, music, jewelry, and watch design of the time is refreshed. However, in this piece, Bulgari drew on their rich design lineage to create something perfectly suited to the ‘90s and unmistakably Bulgari, and that’s why it’s so timeless.

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2000s — We belong in Van Cleef & Arpels together

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Van Cleef & Arpels, Turquoise and diamond brooch, 'Rose de Noël', 2000s. Estimate: CHF10,000–15,000 / US$12,000–18,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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Is it even possible to think of mid-2000s Van Cleef & Arpels without remembering Mariah Carey's stunning comeback hit, “We Belong Together” — later hailed by Billboard as the most popular US single of the decade?

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Astute viewers of the song’s music video may even recognize the butterfly ring gracing her finger, presumably the very ring VCA made for the star in celebration of her 1997 album Butterfly. It’s easy to see why the iconic diva cherishes the house, given their penchant for designing pieces that express a feminine strength, never overshadowing the grace of their wearers. In fact, you won’t actually think of Mariah Carey when seeing someone wear this Rose de Noël brooch — you’ll only be able to think about how elegant and poised they are.

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Discover More from The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE >

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Recommended Reading

\n\n

ROCKS TO WATCH: Nine Unforgettable Stones >

\n","publishDate","2024-10-22T19:41:04.000000Z","authorCredit","Jesse Limbacher","coverPosX",50,"coverPosY",0,"articleUrl","https://www.phillips.com/article/150735913/if-these-jewels-could-sing-auction-geneva","displayOrder",1,"auctionEditorialID",2293,"editorialID",4732,"flocklerID",150735913,"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/gva-jewels-lead-de90a736-036d-4e19-910c-e6cbebd49a7e_s600x0.jpg","We can't take our eyes off these highlights from The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.","ROCKS TO WATCH: Nine Unforgettable Stones","

Exceptional ruby and diamond ring, 17.97 carats, Burma, no heat. Estimate: CHF4,100,000–4,800,000 / US$4,800,000–5,500,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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1: A rare passion

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Exceptional ruby and diamond ring, 17.97 carats, Burma, no heat. Estimate: CHF4,100,000–4,800,000 / US$4,800,000–5,500,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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A ruby weighing more than 5 carats is itself a rare find, as the rough stones are typically discovered in small sizes. Unearthing a ruby over 10 carats is exceptionally rare. But at nearly twenty carats, the present lot is a true wonder of nature, displaying exceptional clarity for a ruby of this size and a bright, well-saturated color. Two certificates and appendix letters from SSEF and Gübelin highlight its remarkable existence.

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2: Bluer than the ocean

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Magnificent Fancy Vivid Blue diamond ring, 3.24 carats, Internally Flawless, Type IIb. Estimate: CHF4,100,000–5,100,000 / US$4,800,000–6,000,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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Type IIb diamonds are characterized by the presence of boron in their crystal structure, which can impart a mesmerizing blue color. Recent research has shown that the boron atoms of such diamonds may have originally derived from ancient oceans. When considering this magnificent ring, this fact is no surprise to our eyes. To view this stone under a loupe is akin to gazing at the endless wonder of the sea. Boasting superlative certification as both Fancy Vivid Blue in color and Internally Flawless in clarity, this ring is as awe-inspiring as it is charming, elegant, and rare.

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3: Rosey reverie

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Fancy Intense Pink diamond ring, 5.09 carats. Estimate: CHF1,870,000–2,970,000 / US$2,200,000–3,500,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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To wear this stunning pear-shaped Fancy Intense Pink diamond ring is to understand the delicacy of our gaze. Expert research has shown that in 99.5% of pink diamonds, the color comes from distortion in the stone’s crystal structure, which causes our eyes to perceive the color pink, even though the chemical structure isn’t necessarily different than D-colored diamonds. It’s as if the earth is teaching us to appreciate that the highest realm of beauty lies in standing out, a lesson that lends this ring not just value and rarity but unparalleled poise and confidence as well.

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4: Old world glamour

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Important Fancy Intense Yellow diamond ring, 40.54 carats. Estimate: CHF850,000–1,290,000 / US$980,000–1,500,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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Discover the charm of the Old European cut with this Fancy Intense Yellow diamond weighing more than 40 carats. Most European-cut stones were cut by hand, lending the stone an appealing magnetism and soft, warm glow, as seen here. It’s a glistening example of the synergy between nature and the human touch that has captivated jewelry lovers for centuries.

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5: Cartier: Always in style

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Cartier, Very fine emerald and diamond ring, 1920s, 14.65 carats. Estimate: CHF750,000–1,000,000 / US$900,000–1,200,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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It’s arguably more important to be timeless than on-trend, but emeralds are having a moment right now, and perhaps that’s precisely because they’re so enduring. With strong results for emeralds seen at auction recently, this remarkable Colombian stone mounted by Cartier in the 1920s is poised to catch eyes — and bids. Now is the moment to steward this emblematic Cartier design, with its geometric stone tastefully accented by baguette diamonds, into the future.

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6: A glowing enigma

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Mesmerizing Fancy Dark Grey-Blue diamond ring, 3.88 carats. Estimate: CHF680,000–850,000 / US$800,000–1,000,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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This mesmerizing stone captures your attention and doesn’t let it go. Dancing in the light, it can appear dark grey, with glimpses of blue that flash like stars. This enigmatic play of light and color nestled between trapeze-shaped diamond shoulders presents an opportunity for a discerning collector to express themselves distinctly — with an estimate as attractive as the stone.

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7: Emeralds are evergreen

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Important Emerald ring, 20.49 carats. Estimate: CHF650,000–850,000 / US$750,000–1,000,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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Gazing into this showstopping Colombian emerald, we seem to find an endless depth. The color saturation is strong, with no indication of clarity enhancement. All told it’s simply astonishing for such a large stone, and the result is a powerful statement piece that showcases the wearer’s free spirit, creativity, and individuality.

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8: The Red Miracle

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‘The Red Miracle,’ Rare Fancy Red diamond, 1.21 carats. Estimate: CHF420,000–680,000 / US$500,000–800,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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Coming to auction from an important private collection, this glistening ring has a secret — its design centers on “The Red Miracle,” a Fancy Red diamond weighing 1.21 carats. As red diamonds weighing more than 1 carat are exceedingly rare, there’s much more to this ring than its intricate design accented by heart-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds and circular-cut pink sapphires. Simply put, it’s a grail. All eyes will be on this ring in November as Phillips offers it on the heels of last May’s auction in Geneva, where Phillips set the record price per carat for a Fancy Red diamond with “The Argyle Phoenix” at US$2.7 million per carat.

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9: A thirst for Bulgari

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Bulgari, Sapphire and diamond ring, ‘Trombino’, 8.04 carat Kashmir sapphire. Estimate: CHF400,000–500,000 / US$480,000–600,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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By now an absolute classic, Bulgari’s ‘Trombino’ ring was devised by Giorgio Bulgari in the 1930s as an entirely diamond-set engagement ring for his Fiancée, Leonilde Gulienetti. Eye-catching and instantly recognizable, this very personal design became an instant hit with connoisseurs, and it remains so today. But what could be better than such a classic design set with a Kashmir sapphire weighing more than 8 carats? By featuring a sapphire of the most sought-after origin within Bulgari’s distinctive savoir-faire, the result is a uniquely desirable ring that is unrestrained in its allure.

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More to Explore

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Sapphire and diamond bracelet, weighing a total of 26.18 carats. Estimate: CHF500,000–850,000 / US$600,000–1,000,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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Further incredible stones are on offer in the sale, set in magnificent jewelry pieces. Highlights range from the miraculously color-matched Kashmir sapphires in the above showstopping bracelet to the emerald earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels and the Internally Flawless Fancy Intense Blue diamond ring seen below.

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Van Cleef & Arpels, Pair of emerald and diamond ear clips, weighing 18.42 and 19.08 carats. Estimate: CHF340,000–500,000 / US$400,000–600,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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Fancy Intense Blue diamond ring, 1.36 carats, Internally Flawless Clarity. Estimate: CHF250,000–420,000 / US$300,000–500,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE.

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Explore the complete catalogue today and find something that speaks to you.

\n\n

Discover More from The Geneva Jewels Auction: THREE >

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Recommended Reading

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If These Jewels Could Sing. . . >

\n\n

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