Benoît Repellin
\nWorldwide Head of Jewellery
\nBRepellin@phillips.com
\n+41 79 313 6845
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\nLouisa Eyre-Jackson
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\n+41 79 574 7713
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\nRoberta Belfer
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\n+41 79 522 92 78
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\nLara Tabbara
\nCataloguer
\nLTabbara@phillips.com
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The Ritz-Carlton Hotel de la Paix, Quai du Mont-Blanc 11, 1201 Genève (map)
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View & Download e-Catalogue >

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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Diamond brooch, ‘Flower’, 1950s

\n","version","1693410517",{"_533":2939,"_131":2940,"_2936":2941},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/CH060123/2_hi.jpg","

MAUBOUSSIN Gem-set and diamond parure, circa 1991

\n","1693410500",{"_533":2943,"_131":2944,"_2936":2945},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/CH060123/3_hi.jpg","

FRED Diamond ring, weighing 15.60 carats, D Colour, VS2 Clarity, Type IIa

\n","1693410485",{"_533":2947,"_131":2948,"_2936":2949},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/CH060123/4_hi.jpg","

HEMMERLE Ruby, emerald and sapphire brooch, ruby weighing 3.40 carats, Burma, no heat

\n","1693410468",{"_533":2951,"_131":2952,"_2936":2953},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/CH060123/5_hi.jpg","

STERLÉ Pair of natural pearl and diamond ear clips

\n","1695111369",{"_533":2955,"_131":2956,"_2936":2957},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/CH060123/6_hi.jpg","

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Yellow sapphire and diamond brooch, ‘Ballerina’

\n","1695111359",{"_533":2959,"_131":2960,"_2936":2961},"https://assets.phillips.com/auctions/CH060123/7_hi.jpg","

GRAFF Ruby and diamond ring, weighing 9.37 carats, East Africa, no heat

\n","1695111348",{"_89":2963,"_91":2964,"_93":2965,"_110":2971},"2023-10-30T23:00:00.000000Z","2023-11-05T23:00:00.000000Z",{"_95":-5,"_96":2966,"_98":2967,"_100":2968,"_102":2969,"_104":103,"_105":2970,"_106":103,"_108":103},"Switzerland","CH","Hôtel La Réserve","301 Route de Lausanne","1293 Geneva-Bellevue",[2972,2975,2977],{"_113":114,"_115":2973,"_116":117,"_118":2974},"Tuesday","18:30:00",{"_113":163,"_115":122,"_116":117,"_118":2976},"19:30:00",{"_113":183,"_115":183,"_116":2978,"_118":246},"09:00:00",[],"articles",[2982,3016],{"_2983":2984,"_2985":153,"_2986":2987,"_131":2988,"_2989":2990,"_2991":2992,"_2993":2994,"_431":2995,"_3006":1676,"_3007":417,"_3008":3009,"_411":417,"_3010":3011,"_3012":3013,"_3014":3015},"coverUrl","https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/contemporary-jewels-811dd094-e156-4392-9e97-bd327263774a_s600x0.jpg","section","summary","Learn about five bold, innovative, and fresh designers turning jewelry into high art.","Next Generation Beautiful","body","

Lots 24, 26, and 27 shown on the model. The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

\n\n

To celebrate Phillips’ enduring values of innovation, talent, and curiosity, our Jewels specialists are augmenting the thrilling selection of timeless masterpieces in the Geneva Jewels: One sale on 6 November — our inaugural live jewelry auction in this storied city — with five hand-picked contemporary designers.

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The lineup includes Maison Alix Dumas, Silvia Furmanovich, Margaret, Viltier, and Dries Criel — all renowned for their bold ideas, pioneering designs, and striking jewels. Each of these maisons has entrusted Phillips with two pieces highlighting their unique creative philosophies and identities.

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The contemporary group comprises a spinel and sapphire ‘Feuilles Birmanes’ ring, signed Maison Alix Dumas, exemplifying the designer’s technical skill and artistic sensibility, and a pair of wood marquetry, pink tourmaline, and diamond ‘Butterfly’ earrings by Silvia Furmanovich, embodying her fascination with the natural world and celebrating the earth’s abundant beauty.

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Also included in the sale are a pair of aquamarine and diamond earrings by Margaret, exuding romance with their timeless, poetic design, a gold and diamond cuff signed Viltier, fusing traditional sophistication with modern dynamism, as well as a gold, enamel, and diamond ‘Flux’ ring designed by Dries Criel, unveiling the sensuality of abstract form.

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The selection of contemporary jewels illuminates Phillips’ continued dedication to 20th and 21st century craftsmanship, embracing forward-thinking artists, advocating the pursuit of creative development, and encouraging inspired audacity.

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\nMAISON ALIX DUMAS

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Maison Alix Dumas, Gold ring, ‘Eternité d’Or.' Estimate: CHF 3,000 – 5,000 USD 3,500 – 6,000. No reserve. Lot 23 in The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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Infusing her designs with artistry, Alix Dumas, founder of her eponymous maison, produces pieces that are dedicated to the exploration of color and form. Akin to a sculptor, she works with her hands and directly with the material, using stones to enhance the natural beauty of metals. The process plays an important role in the creation of her final products, where the designs symbolize a dialogue between creativity and technique, and the results embody emblems of artistic expression.

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Maison Alix Dumas has won several awards since its founding, including the Best Debuting Award at the Haute Couture Jewelry show in 2023, the Francéclat CSR Prize that same year, the Creativity and Design Award at Milano Jewelry Week and the Artistar – Sculpture to Wear Gallery Award in 2022. In 2021, her ‘Eternity’ ring was awarded the Alchemist Prize for Creative Audacity at the Timeless Jewels Show in Paris, and her ‘Eternity Night’ earrings received the Hand and Creation prize from the Paris District of the Rotary Club International.

\n\n

\nSILVIA FURMANOVICH

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Silvia Furmanovich, Pair of gold, tourmaline, and wood earrings, ‘Butterfly.' Estimate: CHF 5,000 – 8,000 USD 6,000 – 9,000. No reserve. Lot 25 in The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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Based in Brazil, Silvia Furmanovich marries her fascination with nature to her respect for craftsmanship, producing remarkable jewels that celebrate the earth’s beauty and diversity. With generations of goldsmiths in her family, Silvia Furmanovich was exposed to the art of working with precious metals from a young age. Inspired by the métier, she eventually began developing her own line of creations, making sure to keep the handicraft tradition alive.

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Collaborating with artisans from the Amazon, she incorporates an array of new materials in her pieces, including wood marquetry, shells, and bamboo, enriching her jewels with a kaleidoscope of color, texture, and volume, and sharing the natural wonders of the rainforest with her global community. A visionary and an innovator, Silvia Furmanovich’s bold designs pay tribute to native, historical, and foreign cultures, and stand as symbols of nature’s wearable art.
\n
\nSilvia Furmanovich won three prizes for innovation at the Couture Design Award in 2015, 2016, and 2019. In 2018, her India Collection was the recipient of the Town & Country Jewellery Award, and in 2019, she was nominated for the Jewelry Design Award at the Jewelers of America’s GEM Awards.

\n\n

\nMARGARET

\n\n

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Margaret, Pearl, diamond and gold bangle, 'Five Stars.' Estimate: CHF 25,000 – 35,000 USD 28,000 – 38,000. Lot 28 in The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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Born from the collaboration between Oriana Melamed Sabrier and Candice Ophir, Margaret jewels return to the romantic essence at the heart of their design. Bringing a modern twist to an antique aesthetic, the pieces connect the past with the present, the vintage with the modern, paying tribute to the stories that inspired their conception, and celebrating timeless artistry. With creations that aim to infuse craftsmanship with storytelling, Margaret produces heirlooms to be worn as emblems of romance, cherished from one generation to the next.

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\nVILTIER

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Viltier, Gold and diamond manchette, 'Edge.' Estimate: CHF 22,000 – 33,000 USD 25,000 – 35,000. Lot 30 in The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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Launched at the height of the pandemic, Viltier was founded in Paris from the friendship of Thomas Montier Leboucher and Iris de la Villardière. Seeking to bring statement pieces into the everyday world, Viltier’s creations are dynamic, colorful, and refined, bridging modernity with French savoir-faire. Inspired from and designed for present and future generations of wearers, the jewels are produced responsibly, with materials sourced ethically to insure traceability and quality. With a desire to transcend traditional norms surrounding beauty, Viltier’s designs are testaments of curiosity, innovation, and vitality.

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In June 2023, Viltier’s individuality gained worldwide recognition after its gold and diamond manchette ‘Edge’ won the Best in Gold prize at the Couture Design Award in Las Vegas.

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\nDRIES CRIEL

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Dries Criel, Gold, enamel and diamond ring, 'Flux.' Estimate: CHF 4,000 – 6,000 USD 4,500 – 7,000. Lot 32 in The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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Exploring the space between geometric and organic forms, Dries Criel’s expressive designs weave the bold with the sensual, the masculine with the feminine. He works with an array of traceable materials, from gold to gemstones and enamel, seeking inspiration from a multitude of sources, including classical and contemporary dance, as well as Ancient Egypt. Dries Criel collaborates with several talented craftsmen in Belgium and Italy to bring his work to life, producing timeless pieces that echo his values for freedom, individuality, beauty, and empowerment.

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\nDiscover More from Phillips Jewels >

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Recommended Reading

\n\n

GENEVA JEWELS: ONE Highlights Include 4th Largest Fancy Intense Pink Diamond Ever >

\n","publishDate","2023-10-13T13:20:06.000000Z","authorCredit","Don Carroll",[153,2996,2997,2998,2999,3000,3001,3002,3003,3004,3005],"Art Jewelry","Art Jewellery","Contemporary Jewellery","Contemporary Jewelry","Young jewelry designers","Young jewellery designers","The best new jewellers","Best New Jewelers","Jewellery Now","Jewelry Now","coverPosX","coverPosY","articleUrl","https://www.phillips.com/article/132971056/next-generation-beautiful","auctionEditorialID",1948,"editorialID",4363,"flocklerID",132971056,{"_2983":3017,"_2985":153,"_2986":3018,"_131":3019,"_2989":3020,"_2991":3021,"_2993":2994,"_431":3022,"_3006":1676,"_3007":417,"_3008":3023,"_411":198,"_3010":3024,"_3012":3025,"_3014":3026},"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/4th-largest-pink-diamond-da357d4a-2112-4e82-990f-c16b444da7b1_s600x0.jpg","Highlights of Geneva Jewels include the fourth largest Fancy Intense Pink diamond ever at auction.","Rarity Plus Beauty, Like Never Before","

Fancy Intense Pink diamond, weighing 20.19 carats, VVS1 Clarity, Excellent Polish and Symmetry. Estimate: CHF 10,000,000 – 15,000,000 USD 11,000,000 – 16,500,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

\n\n

The gorgeous selection on offer in The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE includes great masterpieces of art and nature, confirming Phillips' expertise in accessing the very best quality at the pinnacle of contemporary taste. This sale proudly inaugurates Phillips’ Geneva Jewels, our reinvigorated commitment to the city celebrated for decades as an important center of the jewelry world.

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Rare Fancy Colored Diamonds
\nSince ancient times, there have been no more dazzling, beautiful, and rare symbols of wealth and power than fancy colored diamonds. Never more than now has their peerless beauty commanded such excitement.

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All eyes are on one spectacular stone that stands at a pinnacle of sheer greatness — the fourth largest Fancy Intense Pink Diamond to ever come up for auction. Weighing in at an astounding 20.19 carats, with VVS1 Clarity, Excellent Polish and Symmetry, it is a thing of staggering splendor.

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Fancy Intense Yellow diamond ring, weighing 54.27 carats, Internally Flawless Clarity. Estimate: CHF 1,170,000 – 1,620,000 USD 1,300,000 – 1,800,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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Also of great interest is the Fancy Intense Yellow diamond ring. This breathtaking stone is an astonishing 54.27 carats and is internally flawless. It is momentous indeed to find an internally flawless diamond at this magnificent scale — a Fancy Intense Yellow diamond, no less, of such an enchantingly beautiful color.

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Boodles, Fancy Intense Blue diamond ring, weighing 0.72 carats, Internally Flawless Clarity. Estimate: CHF 55,000 – 90,000 USD 60,000 – 100,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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Among the cognoscenti, certain rare hues are especially desirable. For lovers of blue diamonds, there are two extraordinary stones worthy of your attention. The first set in a ring by Boodles is an exquisite Fancy Intense Blue of .72 carats that is also internally flawless.

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Alexander Laut, Very Light Blue diamond ring, weighing 1.33 carats, VS1 Clarity. Estimate: CHF 63,000 – 90,000 USD 70,000 – 100,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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The second is a Very Light Blue diamond weighing 1.33 carats, of VS1 clarity, which is set amidst the rhythmic pulsing brilliance of white and pink diamonds in a ring designed by Alexander Laut. Also very exciting is an exceptionally appealing Fancy Intense Purplish Pink diamond of 1.52 carats, also of VS1 clarity, the centerpiece of another gracefully conceived Boodles ring.

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Boodles, Fancy Intense Purplish Pink ring, weighing 1.52 carats, SI2 Clarity. Estimate: CHF 180,000 - 270,000 USD 200,000 – 300,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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Signed Jewels by the Legendary Houses
\nThe great houses featured in this sale — including Bulgari, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Sterlé — are in a league of their own, synonymous with truly timeless and world-class sophistication, style, and art.

\n\n

\n\n

Bulgari, Pair of sapphire, ruby, and diamond earrings, with Burmese sapphires weighing 17.74 and 16.66 carats. Estimate: CHF 315,000 – 500,000 USD 350,000 – 550,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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Bulgari, among the revered and historic of Italian jewelers, soared to new heights in the 1960s as high society fell in love with Italian cinema and fashion and the timeless glamor of Rome, Florence, and Milan and it once and for all vouchsafed its reputation as “Jeweler to the Stars.” The sapphire, ruby and diamond earrings featured in our selection is compact and grand, structured, forthright, and bold — an exemplar of the house style. The stars here are the two stupendous Burmese sapphires — weighing 17.74 and 16.66 carats and precisely matched in color and hue.

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Cartier, Diamond bracelet, 1920s. Estimate: CHF 72,000 – 110,000 USD 80,000 – 120,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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Long unrivalled as a favorite of many illustrious European royals, the Parisian house of Cartier continues to inspire the world with its smart, iconic designs and Art Deco masterpieces like the dazzling, sleek, and ultra-chic diamond bracelet from the 1920s — among the most desirable periods in Cartier’s history — which is featured in our sale.

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Van Cleef & Arpels, Yellow sapphire and diamond “Ballerina” brooch, 2017. Estimate: CHF 72,000 – 110,000 USD 80,000 – 120,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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The charm, wit, and whimsy of Van Cleef & Arpels, in addition to the house’s superior technical ingenuity, have won the hearts of Grace Kelly and Jackie Onassis, among many others. This Parisian house has developed a unique signature style from the worlds of ballet, fantasy, and fairy tale — of which this yellow sapphire and diamond “Ballerina” brooch is an iconic example. The matching of the ballerina's yellow sapphire pointe shoes and tutu is a whimsical delight.

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Sterlé, Pair of natural pearl and diamond earrings, 1960s. Drop shaped natural pearls measuring approximately 12.72 x 14.91 x 18.51mm and 13.50 x 14.12 x 17.25mm. Estimate: CHF 270,000 – 450,000 USD 300,000 – 500,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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Long championed for achieving an unparalleled lightness of effect and movement, Pierre Sterlé — the renowned Parisian 'couturier of jewelry' — hit his stride mid-century, winning the coveted De Beers Diamond Award for three consecutive years, 1951–1953. Birds wings are a favorite recurrent motif in his work. The fiery brilliance of the diamond-set wings on the 1960s earrings offered in our sale present a stunning and unexpected contrast to the sumptuous luster and commanding presence of the large and rare natural pearl drops.

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Precious Gems to Take Your Breath Away
\nEmerald, sapphires, and rubies are ancient and mysterious. They have been cherished down through the ages for their hardness and irresistible translucent saturation and richness of hue, the brightest, most valuable shades are truly rare.

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Emerald and diamond ring, weighing 7.17 carats, Colombian origin, no oil. Estimate: CHF 90,000 – 135,000 USD 100,000 – 150,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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Behold the most of sumptuous contemporary marvels. Oil or resin is sometimes used to disguise blemishes on emerald. Not in the extraordinary 7.17-carat Colombian emerald on offer in this auction. Set amidst diamonds, the natural beauty of this gorgeous emerald is absolutely transcendent.

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Sapphire and diamond ring, weighing 5.02 carats, Kashmir origin, no indications of heating. Estimate: CHF 180,000 - 270,000 USD 200,000 – 300,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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The 5.02-carat Kashmir sapphire that is the centerpiece of the sapphire and diamond ring in this auction is a thing of stunning beauty. Kashmir is the most highly sought origin for Sapphires. Its deep majestic blue is quite simply a miracle of nature, wondrous to behold.

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Monture Graff, Ruby and diamond ring, weighing 9.37 carats, East Africa origin, no indications of heating. Estimate: CHF 290,000 – 450,000 USD 320,000 – 500,000. The Geneva Jewels Auction: ONE.

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Similarly unaltered and pure, the gorgeous intense red of the magnificent 9.37-carat ruby of East African origin featured in this splendorous Monture Graff ruby and diamond ring dazzles the heart.

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Discover More from Phillips Jewels >

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Recommended Reading

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Next Generation Beautiful: Contemporary Jewels >

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