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Viewing
\nDecember 2-5, 10am to 5pm EST

\n","auctionDetailsSmall","New York Auction 6 December 2021","extraInfo","

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Head of Department, Americas, Jewellery
\n+1 212 940 1383
\nsthomeier@phillips.com

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Oscar Heyman & Brothers, A Pair of Multi-Colored Sapphire, Diamond, and Platinum Double-Clip Brooches/Earrclips. Jewels New York.

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Written by Vivienne Becker – part of a Jewels double feature editorial with Paul Flato & Hollywood Style.

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Oscar Heyman, the New York jewelry designer‐manufacturer known as the Jewelers’ Jeweler (the title of a book about the company by Yvonne J. Markowitz and Elizabeth Hamilton) is a leading architect of American jewelry style, as demonstrated by a collection of exuberant, colored gem‐set jewels in Phillips’ December jewelry sale. Until fairly recently, the company remained largely behind the scenes, known mainly to industry insiders, but gradually the jewels of Oscar Heyman have been recognized and revered for their superlative quality, ingenuity of craftsmanship and for refined designs that move effortlessly between elegant classicism and dynamic effervescence.

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The roots of this independent family‐owned and run company reach back to 1901, to Latvia, then under Russian rule, where two young Heyman sons, Oscar and Nathan, were sent to start apprenticeships in a jewelry workshop in Ukraine, which supplied to the foremost Russian jewelers, including Fabergé. Russian pogroms against the Jews forced Oscar and Nathan to emigrate to the United States in 1906, joined later by their brother Harry and eventually by their six other siblings; in all there were six brothers and three sisters working for the company. They found work in the burgeoning New York jewelry manufacturing industry, and for a while Oscar worked for Pierre Cartier, who opened the New York branch of the Parisian Maison in 1909. In 1912, Oscar joined forces with Leopold Cohen, another manufacturer, to set up Cohen and Heyman, and when Cohen left the partnership soon afterwards, the company was renamed Oscar Heyman & Brothers. The brothers’ training in Russia, particularly in the crafting of fine platinum and diamond jewelry, proved invaluable, and before long their creations were being sold by leading American retailers, including Black, Starr & Frost, Gattle & Company, Raymond Yard, Marcus & Company, as well as J E Caldwell of Philadelphia and Shreve, Crump and Lowe, Boston.

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Oscar Heyman & Brothers, A Pair of Multi-Colored Sapphire, Diamond, and Platinum Earclips. Jewels New York.

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The Oscar Heyman style became more assertive and innovative during the Art Deco years, as they interpreted fashionable geometric designs, or pieces set with calibrated colored gems in the Egyptian revival style made popular by the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, and brooches including their version of Tutti Frutti clusters of small, colored gems. In the late 1920s, a spectacular brooch, set with a Mughal carved emerald made by Heyman Brothers was sold by Marcus & Co to the avid jewel collector Marjorie Merriweather Post. As their creativity blossomed, Oscar Heyman became known for both classic diamond jewels and more whimsical designs – quirky conversation‐piece animal brooches and thrillingly detailed charm bracelets; jewels that reflected the emerging American style, with its freedom, flair and casual yet sophisticated panache. All the while, the company was refining its craftsmanship and technical skills, devising new production processes for which they were granted patents, including for hinge mechanisms, box links, and in 1933 a special construction for the fashionable double‐clip brooch. Yet it was really from the late 1930s onwards that Oscar Heyman developed its distinctive style, in tune with the bold, machine‐age modern cocktail style showcased at the 1939 New York World’s Fair, with its focus on tomorrow’s futuristic world of art, science and technology. Heyman Brothers was responsible for the creation of striking jewels exhibited at the World’s Fair by major American jewelers, including Marcus & Co, Udall & Ballou and Black Starr and Frost. It seems likely that Oscar Heyman would have visited the Paris Exposition in 1937 which saw the first glimmerings of a new look for jewelry, streamlined, voluminous, mechanistic yet fluid, a look that evolved into the distinctive American retro style, a Heyman Brothers specialty, that won them commissions to create jewels for Tiffany & Company. In 1939 Heyman Brothers began manufacturing jewels for Van Cleef & Arpels, New York, notably their famous Mystery Settings, the Serti Mystérieux.

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Oscar Heyman & Brothers, A Multi-Colored Sapphire, Diamond, and Platinum Clip. Jewels New York.

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After World War II, when the company made components for watches, clocks and aeronautical instruments, along with patriotic jewels, Oscar Heyman was able to build on their success, excelling in both exuberant, cocktail style jewels and the more formal, supremely sophisticated all‐diamond jewelry that defined 1950s style. During these years and into the 1960s era of New York high society, with its cocktail parties and gala events, the name of Oscar Heyman began to be whispered among celebrities who owned their jewels – a flag brooch worn by Eva Peron and an imposing diamond necklace made for Betsey Whitney, wife of John Hay Whitney, U.S. Ambassador to the court of St. James’s. Oscar Heyman was now celebrated for sumptuous, technically brilliant and effusive flower jewels, for ballerina rings, on which baguettes danced around a central star sapphire or ruby, and for jewels of unfettered glamour and sophistication so beloved by Hollywood stars. So much so that the company established an office in downtown Los Angeles to cater to the leading retail jewelers of Tinseltown. The Hollywood connection reached an apogee of fame, when in 1969 Cartier commissioned Oscar Heyman Brothers to create a necklace for the stupendous Taylor‐Burton diamond, purchased that year from Cartier New York. Oscar Heyman died in 1970 at age 81, and management of the company passed first to his youngest brother, George, and then into the hands of the next generation. From this time too, the name of Oscar Heyman emerged from the back room of the jewelry industry into the consciousness and collections of connoisseurs around the world.

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Oscar Heyman & Brothers, A Multi-Colored Sapphire, Spinel, Diamond, and Platinum Bracelet. Jewels New York.

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The jewels in Phillips’ December sale come from the 1950s and 60s, the years of glorious creativity, flair and originality, and of high society patronage – they were originally owned by the Kellogg family – all showing the characteristics and quality for which Oscar Heyman is justly renowned. As Tom Heyman, co‐President, explains, these jewels showcase the signature Keystone gem‐cut, specially developed for Oscar Heyman by cutters in Colombo, Sri Lanka, for the colored sapphires mined there. Tom Heyman explains that after World War II, Oscar Heyman travelled to Sri Lanka to buy quantities of beautiful pastel‐colored sapphires. He adds that the modified shield‐shape of these gems is also known within the company as the “calf’s head” cut for its similarity to the pleasing shape of the animal’s head, The exquisite stones were then set in their New York ateliers into dynamic designs, clustered in luscious abundance, generating a play of light and color, within swirls and curls of diamonds, especially in exuberant yet stylized flower jewels, so redolent of the cocktail age of Oscar Heyman classics, masterpieces of American jewelry.

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Oscar Heyman & Brothers, A Multi-Colored Sapphire, Synthetic Spinel, Diamond, and Platinum Clip. Jewels New York.

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Discover More from Jewels >

\n\n

Recommended Reading

\n\n

Holiday Gift Guide: Jewels >

\n\n

Rebel Rocks: Jewelry of the 1960s and `70s >

\n","publishDate","2021-11-30T16:49:12.000000Z","authorCredit","Arian Murati","coverPosX",50,"coverPosY",0,"articleUrl","https://www.phillips.com/article/87597273/oscar-heyman-a-home-grown-american-jewelry-style","displayOrder",2,"auctionEditorialID",1456,"editorialID",3748,"flocklerID",87597273,"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/flato-jewels-sale-phillips-75e21a86-27ea-4b0e-b933-359e61d5d731_s600x0.jpg","The legendary jeweler's distinctive style played a starring role in shaping and nurturing Hollywood’s bejeweled glamour. ","Paul Flato & Hollywood Style ","

Paul Flato, A Superb Carved Emerald, Diamond, and Platinum Bracelet. Jewels New York.

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Written by Vivienne Becker – part of a Jewels double feature editorial with Oscar Heyman: A Home-Grown American Jewelry Style.

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Paul Flato (1900‐1999), one of the architects of 20th century American jewelry style, was the first, and original, "Jeweler to the Stars." He created jewels of powerful originality, redolent of their age yet enduringly modern, injecting effortless elegance with wit and whimsy, enriching them with an eclectic array of themes and inspirations. In their casual opulence and panache, Flato’s jewels embodied American democratic principles, dismantling the jewel’s formality as a symbol of authority, of royal or noble elitism. Yet, at the same time, Flato’s high‐octane glamour turned his jewels into the sought‐after ‘badges’ of Hollywood royalty and New York high society. Flato jewels were designed to grab the limelight, to be noticed, gossiped about, and today, they still exude that star quality, as shown to perfection by the theatrical bangle in Phillips’ New York December auction.

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\nPaul Flato was born in Texas to an affluent family of German immigrants. Perhaps influenced by the finery he saw around him at parties and social gatherings, he discovered his creative streak at a young age, collecting agates and watching local craftspeople handwork silver wire into ornaments. He moved to New York in 1920 and embarked on a business studies course at Columbia University but left after a year when his family stopped his allowance in the hope he would return to Texas. Instead, he took a job as apprentice to a Fifth Avenue jeweler, perhaps through a newfound friend who was a Tiffany designer. Flato was just 27 years old when he established his own jewelry business in New York, and very quickly his taste, innate charm, and society connections brought him swift success, along with a glowing reputation among the city’s glitterati. At first, he specialized in fine pearls, creating rare and precious necklaces, and began to work with a relatively little‐known diamond merchant called Harry Winston, setting Winston’s stones into his creations. This mutually beneficial relationship developed through the years: Flato set the famous 125.65-carat Jonker diamond into a necklace that received huge media attention when it was worn by socialite and actress Dina Merrill, daughter of Marjorie Merriweather Post.

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\nNaturally gregarious, and a bon vivant, Flato understood the value of image, of moving in the right social circles and living the high life. He was a regular at El Morocco, at society parties and red-carpet events. He also understood the personal nature of the relationship between jeweler and client, and clearly saw the potential of the emerging concept of the individual designer‐jeweler. He was adept at spotting design talent and employed gifted designers, including George Headley, and most famously Fulco, Duke of Verdura, who was introduced to him by Diana Vreeland. Each of his designers worked in a different style, and each was skilled at interpreting Flato’s often zany ideas, transforming them into jewels that were lusted after by New York socialites, fashion leaders and Hollywood stars. Flato’s jewels ranged from classic yet contemporary naturalistic floral sprays, that he described as “drippy,” as their sculptural leaves and petals glistened with diamonds like dewdrops, to quirky, witty gold and gem‐set daytime jewels, designed as shoes, feet, cacti, angels, money bags, and hands that spelled out the letters of sign language – perhaps to refer to his own hearing loss. His celebrated plump or so‐called ‘puffy’ hearts originated in a design made for and with Millicent Rogers; a luscious heart paved in rubies, shot through with a gold and diamond arrow and draped with a blue banner bearing the motto verbum carro (“the word made flesh” – a biblical quotation).

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Paul Flato, A Superb Carved Emerald, Diamond, and Platinum Bracelet. Jewels New York.

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\nIn 1938, Flato opened a boutique on Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, his reputation boosted by jewelry he designed for Katherine Hepburn and Doris Nolan to wear in the movie Holiday, released that year. From this time, at the height of Hollywood’s Golden Age, Paul Flato became the quintessential jeweler to the stars, his creations worn, both on and off screen, by actresses including Greta Garbo, Ginger Rogers, Rita Hayworth, and Marlene Dietrich, for whom he made a spectacular diamond and cabochon emerald bangle.

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Twice married, Flato loved to travel, especially to Europe, to Paris, where he met Suzanne Belperron and Gabrielle Chanel, and to South and Central America, absorbing the wide‐ranging influences that gave his jewels their modernity, relevance and richness. The Mughal‐style carved emerald in the diamond bracelet coming up for auction bears testament to these influences, and to the diverse cultural inspirations that were reinventing jewelry design in the 1920s and ‘30s. Here Flato has set the impressive emerald, high and proud on a streamlined, graphic diamond‐paved bangle – with echoes of the famous Dietrich bangle. The bracelet is accompanied by a letter of authentication and an original sketch that shows the carved emerald in a different bangle design; very often Flato would suggest different settings for an important gem such as this, especially if the jewel was a commission or the gemstone the client’s own.

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Sadly, Flato’s imagination and charm were not matched by his business acumen, and in the 1940s he found himself in financial difficulties which culminated in a series of prison sentences. However, he bounced back, and in 1966, moved to Mexico City, opening a boutique there, and continuing to design and create jewels, of Mexican and South American influence, until the age of 90, when he returned to Texas to spend his remaining years with his two daughters.

\n\n

Discover More from Jewels >

\n\n

Recommended Reading

\n\n

Holiday Gift Guide: Jewels >

\n\n

Rebel Rocks: Jewelry of the 1960s and `70s >

\n","2021-11-30T16:13:26.000000Z","https://www.phillips.com/article/87595115/paul-flato-and-hollywood-style",1,1455,3749,87595115,"https://flockler.com/thumbs/sites/889/bulgari-jewels-sale-phillips-auction-4a30650d-958f-4cca-ba47-91c442400b49_s600x0.jpg","'Tis the season for wearing (and giving) a little holiday sparkle! ","Holiday Gift Guide: Jewels ","

Bulgari, A Sapphire, Diamond, and Platinum Parure. Jewels New York.

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From the savvy fashionista to the dapper gentleman, we’ve curated a dazzling selection of distinctive and stylish jewels that will fit everyone on your list – including you!

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Whether it’s for yourself or someone special, these gorgeous baubles from our upcoming New York Jewels live auction on 6 December and online auction through 8 December are guaranteed to dress up any occasion.

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THE TRENDSETTER

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For the chic fashionista whose glamorous accessories are worthy of an icon.

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Clockwise from left: A Pair of Diamond, Onyx, and White Gold Convertible Earrings; A Gold Bracelet; Gucci, A Diamond and Gold Evening Bag; Gucci, A Pair of Silver Handcuffs.

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Lot 88: A Pair of Diamond, Onyx, and White Gold Convertible Earrings (Estimate: US$26,000-30,000). A striking combination of black onyx and old-mine brilliant cut diamonds offers an edgier alternative to classic diamond studs.

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Lot 104: A Gold Bracelet (Estimate: US$4,000-6,000). This bold gold Italian bracelet dazzles with an abstract flamestitch pattern, making such a graphic statement that you don’t need to accessorize with much else.

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Lot 90: Gucci, A Diamond and Gold Evening Bag (Estimate: US$20,000-30,000). Why wear lots of jewels when you can carry this 18K gold Gucci evening bag? But in case you need a little extra bling, that flash of diamonds will surely do the trick.

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Lot 89: Gucci, A Pair of Silver Handuffs (Estimate: US$8,000-10,000). Whether you’re naughty or nice, these sterling silver Gucci handcuff bracelets, originally designed in 1998 by Tom Ford, make the perfect unexpected gift. And don’t fret about losing the key. A button on the rear of each cuff unlocks the closure.

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THE TIME TRAVELER

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For the lady who is the height of elegance and sophistication from a different era.

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Clockwise from left: An Antique Pearl and Gold Tiara; An Antique Morganite and White Gold Necklace and Pendant; An Antique Natural Pearl, Diamond, and Gold Brooch; Boucheron, A Belle Époque Diamond, Pearl, and Platinum Bracelet.

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Lot 12: An Antique Pearl and Gold Tiara (Estimate: US$7,000-9,000). Fit for a princess (or to just feel like one), this French 18K gold tiara, circa 1860, features coils and bands of pearls adorned within a delicate floral motif.

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Lot 33: An Antique Pink Morganite and White Gold Necklace and Pendant (Estimate: US$40,000-60,000).It’s no wonder why pink was a favorite of Marie Antoinette. From the 1840s, this 18K white gold French necklace is dripping with pear and round-shaped pink Morganite finished with a stunning pendant to adorn any décolleté.

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Lot 30: An Antique Natural Pearl, Diamond, and Gold Brooch (Estimate: US$18,000-$22,000). Brooches are making a comeback so why not add flair to your shirt or jacket with this antique jewel from the 1880s. With natural saltwater oval and button pearls and old mine-cut and single-cut diamonds, who says that grandmother’s pin can be anything but chic.

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Lot 114: Boucheron, A Belle Époque Diamond, Pearl, and Platinum Bracelet (Estimate: US$15,000-$25,000). Channel the divine actress Sarah Bernhardt with this platinum and 18K rose gold bracelet. Signed by Boucheron, the pearl bracelet with single-cut and rose-cut diamonds exudes beauty and elegant style on a par with a muse.

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THE FREE SPIRIT

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When worldly and well-dressed go hand in hand.

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Clockwise from left: Boucheron, A Diamond, Onyx, and Gold Pendant; A Coral, Colored Diamond, Diamond, and Gold Necklace; Katy Briscoe, An Emerald, Diamond, and Gold Ring; Grima, A Fossilized Sand Dollar, Diamond, Pearl, and Platinum Pendant.

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Lot 97: Boucheron, A Diamond, Onyx, and Gold Pendant (Estimate: US$12,000-$18,000). Talisman or glamorous charm, this Boucheron pendant is guaranteed to turn heads no matter what continent she’s on. Measuring a sizable length of 4 inches, the pendant is beautifully crafted in 18K gold accentuated with 6.30 carats of round brilliant-cut diamonds and cabochon onyx stones.

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Lot 102: A Coral, Colored Diamond, Diamond, and Gold Necklace (Estimate: US$30,000-$50,000). Bohemia meets Capri with a necklace of barrel-shaped coral beads and round brilliant-cut diamonds for a look that’s just calling for a caftan.

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Lot 74: Katy Briscoe, An Emerald, Diamond, and Gold Ring (Estimate: US$50,000-$60,000). Akin to a signet ring, this modified shield-cut carved emerald and rose cut diamond ring imparts a level of gravitas to the wearer.

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Lot 108: Grima, A Fossilized Sand Dollar, Diamond, Pearl, and Platinum Pendant (Estimate: US$4,000-$6,000). Considered to be one of the great pioneering jewelers of the 20th century, Andrew Grima is known for his imaginative, modernist designs and this pendant is no exception. Paired with a black cord, a fossilized sand dollar forms the backdrop for a Baroque pearl and round brilliant-cut diamonds – equally as much a work of art as it is necklace.

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THE CLASSIC COLLECTOR

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She sticks by the mantra: Good taste never goes out of style.

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Clockwise from left: Mario Buccellati, A Gold and Diamond Necklace; Cartier, A Pair of Diamond and Gold Earclips; Together with an Unsigned Diamond and Gold Brooch en Suite; Van Cleef & Arpels, A Mother-of-Pearl and White Gold 'Pure Alhambra' Necklace; Van Cleef & Arpels, A Diamond and Gold 'Cadenas' Wristwatch.

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Lot 11: Mario Buccellati, A Gold and Diamond Necklace (Estimate: US$70,000- $90,000). Nothing says holiday like this glitzy Buccellati necklace. A chevron pattern is reimagined in 18K gold and diamonds for a glittering collar that’s ready to party.

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Lot 58: Cartier, A Pair of Diamond and Gold Earclips; Together with an Unsigned Diamond and Gold Brooch (Estimate: US$12,000-$18,000). Stylized leaves form these quintessential gold and diamond earrings that are everyday jewels you’ll never want to take off. But if you want to dress up a notch, you can add the matching brooch.

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Lot 3: Van Cleef & Arpels, A Mother-of-Pearl and White Gold 'Pure Alhambra' Necklace (Estimate: US$8,000-$12,000). Simple yet timeless, the Alhambra is a must-have not only for the true collector, but for any woman’s jewelry box. The lucky quatrefoil, or four-leaf clover, is one of the most recognizable motifs in jewelry, but the mother-of-pearl version adds another layer of elegance.

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Lot 7: Van Cleef & Arpel, A Diamond and Gold 'Cadenas' Wristwatch (Estimate: US$30,000-$50,000). First created in 1935, the Cadenas remains one of Van Cleef’s most iconic pieces today. The innovative design features an angled dial enabling the wearer to check the time discreetly. Several versions of the watch exist, the most famous one belonging to the Duchess of Windsor, but here, the 18K yellow gold watch is paired with a crocodile strap that feels contemporary yet more casual.

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THE ARTISTE

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Wearable art is the best form of expression.

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Clockwise from left to right: Arnaldo Pomodoro, A Tourmaline, Ruby, Emerald, and Gold Pendant/Necklace; Grima, A Smokey Quartz, Diamond, Emerald, Sapphire, and Gold Pendant Necklace; A Multi-colored Hardstone, Diamond and Gold Brooch; An Opal, Diamond, and Gold Ring.

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Lot 107: Arnaldo Pomodoro, A Tourmaline, Ruby, Emerald, and Gold Pendant/Necklace (Estimate: US$5,000-$7,000). The Italian sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro translates his love for geometric shapes into an architectural pendant filled with colored step-cut gemstones, emphasizing his idea of “wearable art” that breaks from the norms of traditional jewelry.

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Lot 106: Grima, A Smokey Quartz, Diamond, Emerald, Sapphire, and Gold Pendant Necklace (Estimate US$3,000-$5,000). A sculptural mix of carved smokey quartz with emeralds, sapphires and diamonds continues the Grima tradition of highly original modern jewelry. The textured gold on the chain and eye-catching pendant beckons you to not only look at the necklace, but want to feel it.

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Lot 103: A Multi-colored Hardstone, Diamond and Gold Brooch (Estimate: US$5,000-$7,000). A circular 50 peso gold coin has all the ingredients of a prized artifact: cabochon malachite, lapis lazuli, coral, tiger’s eye, blue turquoise, rhodochrosite, green turquoise, and diamonds. The unique brooch, with its generous size and sunburst design, definitely adds more than just a pop of color to the lapel.

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Lot 76: An Opal, Diamond, and Gold Ring (Estimate: US$8,000-$10,000). Like a painting, the watercolor palette of a 17.65 carat oval cabochon opal is framed with round brilliant-cut diamonds highlighting the luminescence of the stone.

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THE DAPPER GENTLEMAN

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Even a man’s valet needs its fill of pretty things.

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Clockwise from left: An Art Deco Diamond, Onyx, Pearl, Ruby, and White Gold Brooch; Cartier, An Art Deco Carnelian, Diamond, Sapphire, Enamel, Platinum, and Bi-Colored Gold Clip; Lapis, Diamond and Gold Cufflinks; A Tourmaline, Rubellite, Diamond, Ruby and Bi-Colored Gold Brooch.

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Lot 112: An Art Deco Diamond, Onyx, Pearl, Ruby, and White Gold Brooch (Estimate: US$4,000-$6,000). With a step motif, this Art Deco brooch follows the black-tie dress code with old-mine-cut diamonds, round pearls, caliber-cut rubies, and rectangular carved onyx, giving even a tuxedo that extra bit of flourish.

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Lot 118: Cartier, An Art Deco Carnelian, Diamond, Sapphire, Enamel, Platinum, and Bi-Colored Gold Clip (Estimate: US$10,000-$15,000 No Reserve). Carved carnelian, enamel and cabochon sapphires elevate the classic colors and timeless style of this 1930s Cartier Art Deco clip.

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Lot 588: Lapis, Diamond and Gold Cufflinks (Estimate: US$800-$1200 No Reserve). A French cuff is the perfect excuse to flaunt a fancy set of cufflinks like these 18K gold and lapis lazuli double acorn cufflinks.

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Lot 43: A Tourmaline, Rubellite, Diamond, Ruby and Bi-Colored Gold Brooch (Estimate: US$5,000-$7,000). Wearing a suit doesn’t always have to be so serious. Get powerful and playful at the same time with this whimsical ruby and tourmaline brooch that is guaranteed to make you smile.

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Discover More from Jewels >

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Recommended Reading

\n\n

The Thrill of the Hunt: A Collector’s Lifelong Quest for the World’s Most Precious Gems >

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Rebel Rocks: Jewelry of the 1960s and `70s >

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